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Old 09-29-2009, 09:51 AM   #10906
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Takes me exactly 5 mins to change the spur gear on mine so not much longer than standard
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:57 AM   #10907
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Takes me exactly 5 mins to change the spur gear on mine so not much longer than standard
What is the best way to do it? Unscrew everything holding the right bulkhead in place then slide it out?
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:58 AM   #10908
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I start by popping off the ball joints, shock bottom's diff out, anti roll link, two top deck screws and the front two right bulkhead screws and slacken the rear one, swing the bulkhead over take spur gear off, then reverse the process. Happy days
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:44 PM   #10909
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How do I get a nice clean cut in the upper deck like the picture below? People have said use a dremel but I just don't think I can get it that clean.

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Old 09-29-2009, 04:46 PM   #10910
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How do I get a nice clean cut in the upper deck like the picture below? People have said use a dremel but I just don't think I can get it that clean.

is dremeling required if you're using the Exotek upperdeck? and any chance the bulkheads can be anodized the same blue?
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:43 PM   #10911
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That above was done using a file and yes you still have to file the exotek top deck
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:45 PM   #10912
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Hey Guys,
Thank you very much for the fut 9551 servo mounting help.
I did end up doing the trick of screw into one side loose, then the other and tighten both carefully. I did also leave the attachment screws from the servo to the blue hardware loose the first time I tightened it down to the chassis so they angled inwards a little. Then I tighten them down and mounted the servo to the chassis. This helped me to get the chassis to servo hardware attachment more secure. I also used some blue loctite.
Thanks again
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:52 PM   #10913
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My tc5r now for sale, after a good 8 months run I fancy a change of car and a rest from Tc driving for a while

Team Associated Tc5r + Spares
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:54 PM   #10914
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AE fans might like this one.

We got the chance to speak with Team Associated’s Juho Levanaen for another R/C Evil Empire exclusive interview

Juho gave us some background on racing in his homeland and where he’s going in the future.

Another exclusive R/C Evil Empire interview!

http://rcevilempire.com/2009/09/vide...-juho-levanen/
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:10 PM   #10915
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Another exclusive R/C Evil Empire interview!

http://rcevilempire.com/2009/09/vide...-juho-levanen/
Possibly Luke Skywalker beat me to that link...I get nothing?
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:21 PM   #10916
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These bulkheads made by a friend of mine are about the biggest upgrade and best around at the moment, contact him via the e-mail addresses below and also here is a picture of the bulkheads he makes.
Nick, can you tell me if the pinion can easilly be removed with motor mounted using those bulkheads? Reason I ask is its easiest to remove the motor mount to remove pinion when using large pinions that wont pull through. Possibly since the motor is in farther, the pinion has better access to clear top deck??

Looks like a nice upgrade to try if so.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:25 PM   #10917
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Nick, can you tell me if the pinion can easilly be removed with motor mounted using those bulkheads? Reason I ask is its easiest to remove the motor mount to remove pinion when using large pinions that wont pull through. Possibly since the motor is in farther, the pinion has better access to clear top deck??

Looks like a nice upgrade to try if so.
I have the bulkheads but haven't used them yet but I think it is safe to say it won't make the pinion easier to mount unless you flip the belts.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:29 PM   #10918
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Easiest way to remove/change the pinion imho is to take the battery out and slide it off the shaft, you can get at the pinion really easily with these bulkheads, also from underneath Greig the machinist has machined a grove into the bulkheads which allow a driver to get to the grub screw easier if your pinion is really close to the bulkhead.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:30 PM   #10919
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Edit...

OK I see the answer now.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:14 PM   #10920
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I start by popping off the ball joints, shock bottom's diff out, anti roll link, two top deck screws and the front two right bulkhead screws and slacken the rear one, swing the bulkhead over take spur gear off, then reverse the process. Happy days
All I do is unscrew the right rear shock, right rear camber link disconnected then shocker tower off, rear diff out, top deck off. Gives me good access to the spur and its only 14 screws + ball cup. Since a diff has to come out, I prefer taking out the rear as I find it slightly easier.
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