Originally Posted by Warren Weaver
hey rick are u running losi steering blocks and did i notice the arm mounts are screwed in from the outside?
The suspension mounts are secured like stock but I use long screws that stick out a little so it may look like a cap head.
I use the Losi CVA axles which means you need to use the Losi steering blocks. With this setup you have to slightly modified the AE caster block to clear the universal joint where it goes through the caster block. You have to drill the blade for the larger losi driveshaft pin. And you must remove 1mm from the sterring block to lower the ball stud and add a 1mm washer under the ball stud on the bell crank. Lastly, you have to run TC4 axle bearings.
Under normal conditions, this setup does nothing. But if you use a lot of steering throw, the stock driveshafts can bind (not always). So this setup will allow you to run full throw without having to worry about binds.
Most of the team guys run this setup.
To get back to the Q about other mods...
In my slipper spool, I glue sandpaper to the diff rings instead of using the slipper spool pads.
Keven H uses the TOP ceramic thrust bearings 2x6 in his diff with an HPI or HB diff screw.
We generally hand sand the diff rings flat for better diff action.
I center my sway bars with shrink tubing so that they can't move side to side.
Keven H and Juho remove the front leg of their motor mount to achieve equal flex side to side. You should run 48P gears if you do this.
I sand the underside of the front bumper (plastic part) so that it is flush with the ITF chassis for more ground clearance.