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Old 09-17-2009, 02:56 PM   #10846
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Originally Posted by Nick Priest View Post
Yes.

if you look at this picture you can see the motor is inline with the rest of the bulkhead (also if you look closer you can see the top deck has been machined)

http://rc50.com/modules/coppermine/a...9/PICT9926.JPG
hey rick are u running losi steering blocks and did i notice the arm mounts are screwed in from the outside?
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:17 PM   #10847
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hey rick are u running losi steering blocks and did i notice the arm mounts are screwed in from the outside?
The suspension mounts are secured like stock but I use long screws that stick out a little so it may look like a cap head.

I use the Losi CVA axles which means you need to use the Losi steering blocks. With this setup you have to slightly modified the AE caster block to clear the universal joint where it goes through the caster block. You have to drill the blade for the larger losi driveshaft pin. And you must remove 1mm from the sterring block to lower the ball stud and add a 1mm washer under the ball stud on the bell crank. Lastly, you have to run TC4 axle bearings.

Under normal conditions, this setup does nothing. But if you use a lot of steering throw, the stock driveshafts can bind (not always). So this setup will allow you to run full throw without having to worry about binds.

Most of the team guys run this setup.

To get back to the Q about other mods...
In my slipper spool, I glue sandpaper to the diff rings instead of using the slipper spool pads.
Keven H uses the TOP ceramic thrust bearings 2x6 in his diff with an HPI or HB diff screw.
We generally hand sand the diff rings flat for better diff action.
I center my sway bars with shrink tubing so that they can't move side to side.
Keven H and Juho remove the front leg of their motor mount to achieve equal flex side to side. You should run 48P gears if you do this.
I sand the underside of the front bumper (plastic part) so that it is flush with the ITF chassis for more ground clearance.
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Old 09-17-2009, 04:18 PM   #10848
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Why are the 48P gears necessary for that? Thanks for that insight on the mods!
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Old 09-17-2009, 04:51 PM   #10849
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Why are the 48P gears necessary for that? Thanks for that insight on the mods!
My guess is, the gear mesh would need to be set a bit looser to compensate for the extra movement from added flex running without upper screw mount. The 48P would have the extra tooth engagement needed to avoid stripping spur gear. I ran into this trying to free up a 008, and ended up going back to locked motor mount to prevent spur stripping running mod.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:47 AM   #10850
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
My guess is, the gear mesh would need to be set a bit looser to compensate for the extra movement from added flex running without upper screw mount. The 48P would have the extra tooth engagement needed to avoid stripping spur gear. I ran into this trying to free up a 008, and ended up going back to locked motor mount to prevent spur stripping running mod.
The added flex can cause the gears to strip. This may not be a problem in stock or super stock but has been in modified.
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:57 AM   #10851
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Rick and or Kevin:

I noticed that you guys run the "hard" plastic parts from the foam car with your rubber tire set-up in Vegas. Do you always use the "hard" parts with rubber tire on carpet? Or did Vegas have higher than normal bite?
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:04 AM   #10852
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Rick and or Kevin:

I noticed that you guys run the "hard" plastic parts from the foam car with your rubber tire set-up in Vegas. Do you always use the "hard" parts with rubber tire on carpet? Or did Vegas have higher than normal bite?
I use the hard parts in all conditions.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:23 AM   #10853
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I use the hard parts in all conditions.
So would you recomend buying a "TC5F" and switching out the chassis and the top plate for rubber tire?
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:51 AM   #10854
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So would you recomend buying a "TC5F" and switching out the chassis and the top plate for rubber tire?
I don't know which way is cheaper (spings, spool vs one-way and other things might need to be changed as well) but wanted to give you a heads up that you can't get the rubber top deck right now anywhere. At least I haven't been able to find it easily.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:57 AM   #10855
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So would you recomend buying a "TC5F" and switching out the chassis and the top plate for rubber tire?
I am not sure how the costs work out, but my guess is that the cost of the hard parts is less than the cost of the chassis and top deck so it might be better to buy the R and update the plastic.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:59 AM   #10856
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I don't know which way is cheaper (spings, spool vs one-way and other things might need to be changed as well) but wanted to give you a heads up that you can't get the rubber top deck right now anywhere. At least I haven't been able to find it easily.
Tim, if you already have the chassis for me to mill, let me know and I'll meet you, say the Hobby Shop and pick it up? That way it will be ready and waiting for you when you get back from vacation. Let me know.

Ken
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:02 PM   #10857
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Tim, if you already have the chassis for me to mill, let me know and I'll meet you, say the Hobby Shop and pick it up? That way it will be ready and waiting for you when you get back from vacation. Let me know.

Ken
I haven't order it yet. Ill send you a PM. I can just order it and have it shipped to your house if that works.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:04 PM   #10858
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I haven't order it yet. Ill send you a PM. I can just order it and have it shipped to your house if that works.
Thats fine, or I can meet you at Randy's shop too. I live in Dayton, and the Randy's place is about 15 mins from me. Doesn't matter, whatever you want to do is fine with me.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:06 PM   #10859
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but wanted to give you a heads up that you can't get the rubber top deck right now anywhere. At least I haven't been able to find it easily.
I have The Murr covered for a top deck/chassis.

Mike Slaughter
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Old 09-20-2009, 07:15 PM   #10860
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Default FDR help for brushless setup (LRP SPX and 17.5 Duo 2)

Hi,

Anyone run an LRP SPX (mode 6 or 7) and an Epic Duo 2 (17.5) brushless?

I'm looking for an FDR starting point for medium traction asphalt track. Any help would be very appreciated.

I was using 3.69 with a Novak Havoc 17.5 system... but was told this may be too low for the LRP/Duo2 and it might burn it up.

Thanks!

-AJ
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