R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-02-2009, 05:36 PM   #10711
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckharrisjr View Post
Looking for a setup for a tc5r for the IIC. Im racing in amatuer 17.5 rubber. Never raced on carpet, and lost as far as what to do. Anyone have any good setups? Thanks in advance...
this is the best rubber carpet setup ive run! highly reccomended and easy to drive
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rubber-carpet 2009.pdf (145.0 KB, 292 views)
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2009, 06:47 PM   #10712
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 63
Default Shocks

What do you guys think about using or not using the foam inserts in the skocks.
Lugnutz1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2009, 11:57 PM   #10713
Tech Elite
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rezenclowd3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Priest View Post
Wow someone is on his period.....

Yes i've heard of fricton, but maybe you have heard of quality control... something Associated seem to have forgotten about.

If you can read (as you read my post i'll assume you can) I said the associated comes with free play AS STANDARD <<-- get that part into your head... whereas the schumacher has NON. The fit and finish of the schumacher is far superior in every way, i'm not saying this because I dislike the tc5 either I still race mine every friday and it's great, but there is no denying the schumacher is a far better car!
Well, hopefully I'll have an Mi4 very soon....however I am sure that the TC5 won't be any slower or faster. It's all in the hands of the driver and their setup knowledge, which many people lack, including myself.

With the TC5, I stick with something very similiar to one of Juhos asphalt setup. MINOR changes are necessary for me depending on conditions.

The Mi4 is just going to be fun as it looks TO ME that it will be quicker to wrench on. Ill still keep the TC5, as its so very affordable to run up top with it.

Here's my TC5 that I redid again yesterday after running it for over a year with only $20 in broken parts. Less than $100 in replaced parts due to wear. Oh wait, scratch that: add another $40 for the new chassis off of fleabay that was replaced yesterday.

__________________
OOMSGFX.COM (no longer painting, but take a look for fun!), Roadrunners RC Club
"Racing drivers have balls, unfortunately, none of them are crystal" (David Coulthard)
"I believe the average IQ of a NASCAR fan is only marginally above the things that hit the windscreen during the race. "
rezenclowd3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 12:36 AM   #10714
Tech Addict
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Netherlands, Sweet Lake City
Posts: 500
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

@ Rezenclowd3 How did you do the blue line on the edge of your carbon? Pinstriped it or something? Did you glue it before or after the paint?

Best Regards

Robert Krens
__________________
Sponsored by: Schumacher Racing and Dualsky
Supported by: Shepherd Benelux and Thunder Tiger.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 12:48 AM   #10715
Tech Elite
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rezenclowd3
Default

Robert, I used the CRC method of rounding and smoothing the edges, however I added a step after CAing the CF once. I took a q-tip, dipped in Electric Blue by Faskolor and rolled it around the CF. Wipe any runoff, let dry, wet sand, apply again. Then apply last layer of CA and wetsand again. Not that there is a correct way.... Next time I am going to tape off the chassis so that paint can not run onto the chassis, but just the edges. Being that the chassis can have more chamfer or less depending on aggressiveness while rounding with emry cloth sometimes the paint looks odd. This was my first time and I am going to modify my method next time.

Before applying the last bit of CA, I took a razor and scraped top/bottom of the chassis to make sure all paint was only on the rounded edge.

I honestly didn't take much time doing this chassis, it was an experiment to see if I liked it, and to see how well it will hold up. I'll do it from now on, as it stands out, and might as well represent how anal us racers can be ;-)
__________________
OOMSGFX.COM (no longer painting, but take a look for fun!), Roadrunners RC Club
"Racing drivers have balls, unfortunately, none of them are crystal" (David Coulthard)
"I believe the average IQ of a NASCAR fan is only marginally above the things that hit the windscreen during the race. "
rezenclowd3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 03:28 AM   #10716
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 774
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi rezenclowd3!

Very nice method, but main question is: it help on track for some 0.1s per lap or more?


Regards!
m.

ps: JOKE!!!! ))) very nice looking chassis
__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 03:30 AM   #10717
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Perth, Australia.
Posts: 1,343
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Thats not what I am asking. In short, im wondering what will happen if you move both front and rear arms forward, but the wheelbase stays the same
Moving the rear forward increases grip to the rear wheels, moving them to the rear decreases grip. With the front moving them forward decreases grip and moving them rearward to the rear increases front front grip.
Generaly speaking for road vehicles (cars/buses/etc...) a longer wheel base generally wont turn a easy or quick compared to a short wheel base.
__________________
Team Associated B5m | Team Associated T5m | Team Associated TC6 | Team Associated TC5x
Scooter79rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 11:29 AM   #10718
Tech Elite
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rezenclowd3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi rezenclowd3!

Very nice method, but main question is: it help on track for some 0.1s per lap or more?


Regards!
m.

ps: JOKE!!!! ))) very nice looking chassis
Its good for 3.14159265 seconds per race!!
__________________
OOMSGFX.COM (no longer painting, but take a look for fun!), Roadrunners RC Club
"Racing drivers have balls, unfortunately, none of them are crystal" (David Coulthard)
"I believe the average IQ of a NASCAR fan is only marginally above the things that hit the windscreen during the race. "
rezenclowd3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 01:02 PM   #10719
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 81
Default Still some questions

If I posted my questions in the wrong place please let me know where else I should post them.


Thanks

Jim
authorjim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 01:35 PM   #10720
Tech Elite
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rezenclowd3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
Okay guys need some help. I just got the TC5R car and started buying a body some replacement parts etc.

I am also purchasing a Futaba 603FS reciever since I have a Futaba 4pk transmitter.
I also will purchase a Futaba low profile digital servo. Is that okay?

Need advice on the Motor and Esc.

What KV range should I be looking in to get good speed and balance of low end torque. What is a dependable unit with fan. Any thoughts on which units are more efficient with better run times. Mostly club racing, some cobbled together parking lots, mid to long straights quite a few turns and switch backs.

Castle, Novak, LRP --- any brand recommendations also.

Do these electrics require as many holes in body for cooling like the Nitros?


Jim
Jim, a Futaba Lo-Pro servo will be fine.
As far as Motor, look into what people at the tracks are using, and what experience level you will be joining. For example, @ my club 17.5 is Novice and 13.5 is Sportsman and Superstock. If you are parking lot racing, I would go with a closed motor to keep debris out.

Which ESC? Thats a tall debate, but the KO BMC, Tekin RS and LRP SPX are great and very versatile. Again see what people at your club are using if you are not confident finding the gearing on your own and dealing with setup.

Cooling holes? Electric TC racers rarely cut any out. Actually I am not sure if it is legal to do so at an IFMAR or ROAR event, but I have never seen anyone cut out holes for this purpose. It sounds like you will not be attending these events, but check with your clubs to see if it is allowed.
__________________
OOMSGFX.COM (no longer painting, but take a look for fun!), Roadrunners RC Club
"Racing drivers have balls, unfortunately, none of them are crystal" (David Coulthard)
"I believe the average IQ of a NASCAR fan is only marginally above the things that hit the windscreen during the race. "
rezenclowd3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 02:31 PM   #10721
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 81
Default Thank you

rezenclowd3.

I now have a place to begin. I would probably have plundered into Castle or some other company. The motors you quote are sensored I believe. Is that the in thing at these races because of cogging? People don't use brushed motors do they?

Also two other questions.

What rubber tires, and what is a spool?

Jim
authorjim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 03:28 PM   #10722
Tech Elite
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rezenclowd3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
rezenclowd3.

I now have a place to begin. I would probably have plundered into Castle or some other company. The motors you quote are sensored I believe. Is that the in thing at these races because of cogging? People don't use brushed motors do they?

Also two other questions.

What rubber tires, and what is a spool?

Jim
Motors need to be sensored to run in ROAR events (but I don't believe they have to be driven by sensored mode, ie the Tekin RS settings). That rule has sprinkled down to many clubs as it should. Its not just cogging anymore, its now about needing sensored (supposedly) to get the advanced timing that the new generation of speed controls can achieve. Some still use brushed motors I am sure, but the trend for the past 2 yrs+ has been moving toward brushless. More sticker shock, less dirty work in the end.

A spool is essentially a locked differential. Actually thats not the way to explain it. Without a differential, its nothing like a differential LOL. Its a straight axle. It helps in low-bite conditions like asphalt, gives very consistent braking, less turn in, but more on power steering exiting a corner.

Rubber tires? Depends on the track you are at. Talk to the locals there.
__________________
OOMSGFX.COM (no longer painting, but take a look for fun!), Roadrunners RC Club
"Racing drivers have balls, unfortunately, none of them are crystal" (David Coulthard)
"I believe the average IQ of a NASCAR fan is only marginally above the things that hit the windscreen during the race. "

Last edited by rezenclowd3; 09-03-2009 at 03:39 PM.
rezenclowd3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 05:23 PM   #10723
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 63
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnutz1 View Post
What do you guys think about using or not using the foam inserts in the skocks.

anybody?
Lugnutz1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 06:26 PM   #10724
Tech Master
 
mr crum's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: tampa florida 813
Posts: 1,591
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to mr crum
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnutz1 View Post
anybody?
i dont use them
__________________
SPEED PASSION TEAM DRIVER
ADAB RACING FACTORY PILOT
WWW.ADRENALINERACEWAY.COM
FL INDOOR R/C COMPLEX
TEAM B.R. RACING
mr crum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 07:46 PM   #10725
Tech Champion
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The dirty burnie
Posts: 5,487
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Motors need to be sensored to run in ROAR events (but I don't believe they have to be driven by sensored mode, ie the Tekin RS settings). That rule has sprinkled down to many clubs as it should. Its not just cogging anymore, its now about needing sensored (supposedly) to get the advanced timing that the new generation of speed controls can achieve. Some still use brushed motors I am sure, but the trend for the past 2 yrs+ has been moving toward brushless. More sticker shock, less dirty work in the end.

A spool is essentially a locked differential. Actually thats not the way to explain it. Without a differential, its nothing like a differential LOL. Its a straight axle. It helps in low-bite conditions like asphalt, gives very consistent braking, less turn in, but more on power steering exiting a corner.

Rubber tires? Depends on the track you are at. Talk to the locals there.
They do not need to be sensored, Castle motors were ROAR approved for mod this year.
__________________
Mike Gee

Awesomatix USA/Pyscho Cells Racing/Tekin/Sweep Racing/RSD/180 Raceway/Johns Mobile Raceway/TQ Wire/Avid/Sanwa
geeunit1014 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Losi XXXS G+ with parts!! Team Orion V2 Hitec 5625 cola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-18-2008 07:11 PM
BATTERIES - Team Orion 4200 SHO Team Cells (6 cell) packs................... For Sale 2-Bad Australia For Sale/Trade 0 03-21-2008 01:16 AM
New Items for Sale Tamiya F103gt Chassis Kit, Team Much More CTX-D, Novak, Team Orion Tsquare R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 04-17-2007 07:29 PM
>>> BRAND STINKING NEW NEVER RAN TEAM JAMMIN FACTORY TEAM FTE RACING BUGGY <<<< mach51 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 01-25-2007 08:13 PM
F/S Team Associated Factory Team RC18T with Mamba Comp X Brushless and Extras ZeroCool101 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 01-07-2006 12:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:02 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net