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Old 08-11-2009, 08:12 PM   #10546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
what are the effects of changing the arm mount set up and keeping all the other setups the same, for example.

going from this setup:
2a=front front (closest to the bumper)
2a=front rear (closest to steering servo)
2a=rear front (closest to motor)
2a=rear rear

to this setuo:
1a=front front (closest to the bumper)
1a=front rear (closest to steering servo)
2a=rear front (closest to motor)
2a=rear rear

will i get more steering? more grip? or something else?
Arm mount placement alters the roll center as well as provides adjustment for pro-dive, anti-dive, anti-squat and pro-squat.
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:33 PM   #10547
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Originally Posted by IIGQ4U View Post
Arm mount placement alters the roll center as well as provides adjustment for pro-dive, anti-dive, anti-squat and pro-squat.
what are the effects of the example's roll center change?
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:44 PM   #10548
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Simply put, a high roll center will decrease chassis roll and improve response on that end of the car. The downside of this is that some overall grip is sacrificed.

Anti-dive prevents the front end of the car from diving off power and can improve response (Due to decreased weight transfer) and decrease grip on that end of the car (Off power). The opposite can be said for Kick up.

Anti-squat is as it sounds... The car resists squatting on power which can increase on power grip. The opposite can be said for pro squat as it can increase grip by allowing more weight to be transferred forward (Off power).

This is my understanding of these adjustments.
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:49 PM   #10549
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so going to 1a1a in the front, it causes the front end to be less responsive, or have less steering?

btw does anybody have an oppinion with the exotic upgrades?
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:04 PM   #10550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIGQ4U View Post
Simply put, a high roll center will decrease chassis roll and improve response on that end of the car. The downside of this is that some overall grip is sacrificed.

Anti-dive prevents the front end of the car from diving off power and can improve response (Due to decreased weight transfer) and decrease grip on that end of the car (Off power). The opposite can be said for Kick up.

Anti-squat is as it sounds... The car resists squatting on power which can increase on power grip. The opposite can be said for pro squat as it can increase grip by allowing more weight to be transferred forward (Off power).

This is my understanding of these adjustments.
Personnally I would've said that Anti-drive helps reduce nose drive under brakes, but this is being heavily experienced with driving '70s 1:1 cars that get a lot of nose dive under brakes.


As for running 1a front and 2a rear I had that at one point (or 2a front and 1a rear) and my car was quite tail happy as soon as I went 1a front and rear the car was less tail happy, but this was with the FT top deck and chassis on ashphalt.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:07 PM   #10551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
so going to 1a1a in the front, it causes the front end to be less responsive, or have less steering?

btw does anybody have an oppinion with the exotic upgrades?
Exotek upgrades gave me nothing but good results first the layshaft, then the upper and lower chassis which in my opinion is the best i ever spend on my TC5. It gave my car a well balance transition from left to right the extra flex on the chassis enable me to gun the throttle earlier on the turn without the fear of spinning my car. Definitely better that the ITF chassis specially when using a hard case lipo battery.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:40 AM   #10552
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Are you guys putting spacers on the ball stud at the end of the rear shock end when running more than 2*rear toe? I noticed the shock is sitting at an angle...
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:18 AM   #10553
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Search is not working.

What is a good FDR to start with on a medium sized carpet track running a 13.5 with rubber?

Thanks
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Old 08-16-2009, 01:47 AM   #10554
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I just want to know, does anyone know if using a 48p 72t spur would mesh with pinions of the 31/32/33/34 range? Just doing some research for when I get a ESC with boost within the next few weeks. I'm after an FDR of around 4.5 as a starting point.
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Old 08-16-2009, 02:06 AM   #10555
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Yes, they will mesh just fine.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:04 AM   #10556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
what are the effects of the example's roll center change?
Lowering the roll center in the front will give more overall grip. The response will be lazier than a higher roll enter. The suspension takes longer to transition.

Very low roll centers were common on foam tire cars to slow the transition and keep them from traction rolling. Rubber tire cars usually run a higher roll center to increase response.

Having the front end set lower than the rear should cause the car to have more overall steering throughout the corner, but maybe a bit less turn in.
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:09 PM   #10557
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Roll-centers can also adjust what part of the tyre bites into the road surface, I run rubber on low-mid bite ashphalt which at the moment is also low temp. But I've been told that as a rule of thumb have the rear camber links sitting flat with the fronts sitting on a angle going downward towards the center of the car.
With the rear tyres have them bite on the outer edge through corners, they will be leaning over (ie Positive camber) when all the cars weight is being pushed onto that wheel.
With the front have them bite towards the center of the tread (in comparison to the rear tyres) which helps to keeping front grip through corner.
Doing this help my car alot, and made from drivable to awesome, its also very good though off-camber corners.
I'll only say that this for rubber/ashphalt not for foam/carpet it could work but I'm just simply not sure as EP foam or carpet racing is non-existant in my state.

If anyone wants to learn more about the thorey behind car setup, look up the following:
Xray T2 Set-up book
I think it dates back to 2007 but I was able to find a link to the PDF of it with doing a search in the main Electric on-road here.
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:47 PM   #10558
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I need to get new bearings for my TC5. Any recommendations?

I preferably would like some hub bearings that have very little play to the axle. Now I don't mind spending money on ceramics, but I need to be able to justify the price. If not, I'd rather replace cheaper ones more often.

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Old 08-17-2009, 12:16 AM   #10559
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Something about your setup doesnt seem right... Stiffer springs in the rear than in the front? I assume you checked for an unglued tire. What is your complete setup?
If TRD is running stiffer springs in the rear vs front, its because of Me. I run that way, because it helped me with weight transfer. I know i got a few looks when the pros would look at my car, but when TRD tried it, he loved it. Is it odd, yes but it works for my driving style.
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:53 AM   #10560
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I wanted to see if I could get the theory behind the long and short camber links. What type of handling charactoristics do the longer camber links promote and what happens when you shorten them.

Thanks.
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