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Old 07-28-2009, 10:19 PM   #10456
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I have owned both servos. They seem to perform identical. I have the 9551 in my car now. If you look back a few, you can see photos of it in my car. The link is not strait, but it performs great.

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Old 07-28-2009, 10:30 PM   #10457
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Neither is it straight with the ko 2413 which is what I am using but no binding so works good.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:40 PM   #10458
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I looked at the build instructions for the slipper spool. It does not look like you put the diff balls in, but I thought I read people are putting them in.
Is this correct?
I know you do not use the thrust bearing balls.
Thanks for the answers
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:00 PM   #10459
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i dont use the diff balls on the slipper pool- but i do use the thrust bearing on the slipper spool. am i wrong?
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:04 PM   #10460
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Use no diff balls. Use thrust balls as the axle is not locked solid and the bolt can loosen if rotation occurs. Manual shows no balls.
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:11 PM   #10461
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.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:48 AM   #10462
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Originally Posted by SKYFLAKES View Post
im using a futaba 9550 on my tc5R, I think its the same size with the 9551, not sure. I have to do some grinding in the aluminum servo holder because it is not aligned to the chassis holes.
That's the same servo I have in my car and I didn't need to grind anything, I would imagine that the 9551 is the same size.
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:05 AM   #10463
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There are 2 kinds of servo holders, one has to be grinded, second one not. Don't ask me why, but I had first one on my tc5f and second on my tc5r.
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:44 AM   #10464
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Anyone using the Diggity Wide lipo mounting brace (not the offset one) with ppd 3oz base and 2oz side weight? I am using the smc 5200 40c lipo and wanting to get my car balanced properly once my tekin rs pro arrives this week.

Will be using four scales to balance car out once esc arrives.
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:18 AM   #10465
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Needing some help with cams and belt tension. My kit came pre-built so I am sort of going backwards and making appropriate changes.

According to the setup it is setup up with cam A tension front 3 rear 30.

Now I am still new to the tc5 but from what I see they look like cam B with holes in them. Someone correct me if I am wrong here so even though the setup calls for cam A looks like cam B was installed.

I am running a 17.5 brushless and hoping someone can point me in the right direction of how tight/loose the belts should be.

Also having a bit of a hard time reading the tension numbers. I'm looking at the manual and starts 17 from left to right 32 what increments are being used to read the numbers?
Everyone seems to have a different way of thinking about how best to set your belt tension. Some think to make the belt as loose as possible without it slipping, to get a very free running drivetrain. I personally don't like this as the belt flaps up and down a lot at high speeds. Any energy going into moving the belt up and down is energy wasted.

So I try to find the sweet spot between loose belts to free the drivetrain but not loose enough so the belt can start to flap at high speeds.

I read in another thread that Josh Cyrul, the (lead?) designer of the T.O.P. Photon had done some testing into this exact issue and come up with the result that 4mm travel up or down is the right amount for maximum efficiency.
Who am I to argue with that, so I just set my belt so that when I push down on the belt, it can only move 4mm. Seems quite tight but not too tight. Probably also this is for mod racing, which probably requires a tighter belt than say VTA since higher speeds will make even a relatively tight belt start to vibrate.

So to summarise my waffling: For any motor, set your belt tight enough so that at top speed your belt doesn't vibrate, but no tighter. At mod speeds, this is apparently 4mm of belt travel (up/down travel)

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Old 07-29-2009, 03:46 AM   #10466
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Here is another trick to measure belt tension by John Stranahan

Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:53 AM   #10467
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I searched OSH for this hardware with no luck. And of course, my LHS had everything I needed. The are 2mm flat washers and 2mmx12mm socket cap screws. The dubro part numbers are 2107 and 2114. You are going to need 3 packs of 2107. I ended up using 5 washers on each screw.
Cool, thanks for the info. How did you get the one-way hub to center onto the pulley?
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:13 AM   #10468
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Cool, thanks for the info. How did you get the one-way hub to center onto the pulley?
I used a piece of tape as suggested in your post.

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Old 07-29-2009, 10:26 AM   #10469
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Default 13.5 Turn motor Gearing?

I just ordered a tekin RS esc and A Trinity Duo 13.5 Turn for my TC-5
I run on an indoor asphalt track, rubber tires. What pinion/spur gearing is a good place to start?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:17 AM   #10470
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I just ordered a tekin RS esc and A Trinity Duo 13.5 Turn for my TC-5
I run on an indoor asphalt track, rubber tires. What pinion/spur gearing is a good place to start?
Thanks in advance.
If your running 48P then I'd start with a 78T spur and a 30T pinion. That will put you at 5.2 ratio and you'll have a little adjustment to go up and a lot to go down. With that spur you can go to 17.5 class without changing.
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