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Old 07-28-2009, 10:01 AM   #10441
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Originally Posted by pakk View Post
Well the exotek chassis did not help because it moved the servo more forward forcing me to move the servo out a little. But I think it is the servo. I don't know to be honest. It never really seemed to affect anything, so I left it alone.

--pakk
A friend of mine recently got a TC5 and didn't have the right servo horn for it. The steering link ended up at an angle, exactly like it is in your picture Pakk. If your steer it with the transmitter it seems ok, but if you turn with your hand there is a serious binding if you steer right a lot. I tracked it down to the ball on the servo horn binding on the cup.

The solution is to get rid of the angle in the link, by using another servo horn or moving the servo out.

If it's not biding though and you get full steering throw in both directions then I wouldn't worry about it.

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Old 07-28-2009, 10:04 AM   #10442
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Yeah, I get zero binding. It is one of those things(among several things) that just bother me when I look at it, but have no real ill affect on performance.

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Old 07-28-2009, 10:27 AM   #10443
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Cool, I assembled the spool for the next race, I always mix my tires up so chances are they've been on each wheel, also I was looking at the manual and when I was installing the axle shims I didnt see the part that said 2 for each axle and only installed 1 on each side so I was getting strange camber readings...
I never rotate tires. I label each one LR (left rear) RR, LF, RF and always put them on the same location each time. This way the car acts the same every run.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:29 AM   #10444
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A friend of mine recently got a TC5 and didn't have the right servo horn for it. The steering link ended up at an angle, exactly like it is in your picture Pakk. If your steer it with the transmitter it seems ok, but if you turn with your hand there is a serious binding if you steer right a lot. I tracked it down to the ball on the servo horn binding on the cup.

The solution is to get rid of the angle in the link, by using another servo horn or moving the servo out.

If it's not biding though and you get full steering throw in both directions then I wouldn't worry about it.

Regards

Neal
I had that problem with the steering catching the bulkhead. WIth the radio on it seemed fine but like you mentioned if I turned it by hand I could feel it catching. I took off the toplate and could easily see where it was hitting at.
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:18 AM   #10445
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even if its not binding the servo still has to work a little harder to make the car turn at high speeds.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:05 PM   #10446
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Needing some help with cams and belt tension. My kit came pre-built so I am sort of going backwards and making appropriate changes.

According to the setup it is setup up with cam A tension front 3 rear 30.

Now I am still new to the tc5 but from what I see they look like cam B with holes in them. Someone correct me if I am wrong here so even though the setup calls for cam A looks like cam B was installed.

I am running a 17.5 brushless and hoping someone can point me in the right direction of how tight/loose the belts should be.

Also having a bit of a hard time reading the tension numbers. I'm looking at the manual and starts 17 from left to right 32 what increments are being used to read the numbers?
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:08 PM   #10447
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Is your belt tight? The manual indicates how to read the tension numbers. I just tinker around with them until the tension is how I want it. Be sure that you have both cams positioned in the same direction.

If you are only running 17.5 or 13.5, you will want to set your belt a bit loose.

One more thing, was the car run quite a bit before you purchased? The belt will need to be worn in a bit so that it can stretch naturally.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:22 PM   #10448
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Belts look good but than I don't have new ones to compare but they don't look warn. I am looking over the manual but maybe I am a bit lost.

Turned upwards reads number 1-16
Turned downwards reads 17-32

So do we read 17, 18 .... 32 becuase if so it just doesn't jive. So either we are doing 17, 20, 23 etc..

belts are not tight.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:58 PM   #10449
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Belts look good but than I don't have new ones to compare but they don't look warn. I am looking over the manual but maybe I am a bit lost.

Turned upwards reads number 1-16
Turned downwards reads 17-32

So do we read 17, 18 .... 32 becuase if so it just doesn't jive. So either we are doing 17, 20, 23 etc..

belts are not tight.
If you use cam "A" the diff will sit high or low depending on which direction you install the cam. If you look at the cam you will it. Cam "B" is set in between the cam "A" settings. It was a little confusing for me at first too.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:04 PM   #10450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Belts look good but than I don't have new ones to compare but they don't look warn. I am looking over the manual but maybe I am a bit lost.

Turned upwards reads number 1-16
Turned downwards reads 17-32

So do we read 17, 18 .... 32 becuase if so it just doesn't jive. So either we are doing 17, 20, 23 etc..

belts are not tight.
If the belts aren't tight and aren't skipping, everything should be fine.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:09 PM   #10451
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The different cams are to change diff height. This will change the feel of on/off power differences.

As far as how tight:
Adjust so that you have minimum resonance. Easiest is to give the car full throttle and listen to the revs. Tighten until the revs start to drop. I myself changed the the Team Bomber belt which has helped quite a bit.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:34 PM   #10452
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Needing some help with cams and belt tension. My kit came pre-built so I am sort of going backwards and making appropriate changes.

According to the setup it is setup up with cam A tension front 3 rear 30.

Now I am still new to the tc5 but from what I see they look like cam B with holes in them. Someone correct me if I am wrong here so even though the setup calls for cam A looks like cam B was installed.

I am running a 17.5 brushless and hoping someone can point me in the right direction of how tight/loose the belts should be.

Also having a bit of a hard time reading the tension numbers. I'm looking at the manual and starts 17 from left to right 32 what increments are being used to read the numbers?
I'm also running a 17.5 and I've got my belts loose as possible and I would like to go looser, but my belts have only done two race meets and a few arvo's of testing.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:41 PM   #10453
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
As far as how tight:
Adjust so that you have minimum resonance. Easiest is to give the car full throttle and listen to the revs. Tighten until the revs start to drop. I myself changed the the Team Bomber belt which has helped quite a bit.
Can you give more detail? Are you saying you can tell your rpms drop just by listening to you car at full throttle? I'm guessing this is done on the bench free wheeling.

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Old 07-28-2009, 10:34 PM   #10454
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Yes, you can hear your rpms drop if your belt is too loose or too tight. This is while freewheeling with a 13.5. Im not overly worried about a 13.5 grenading while freewheeling, though I do have the tires on while doing this. (Also using an SPX so the RPM does go quite a bit high.) Again, just watch for belt resonance and listen for the revs to drop. This is also track dependent. Say your only 10% full throttle on one lap, then you can afford to lose straight line speed. Adjust the belt tension so the belt resonates at different RPMs. Again, I am using the Team Bomber belt that is quite abit freer.
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:16 PM   #10455
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Hey Guys,
Looking to get a low profile and lighter servo into my TC5r
Looking at the KO Propo PDS-2413ICS
or Futaba S9551.
Any fit issues or performance?
Thanks alot and God Bless
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