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Old 07-23-2009, 02:40 PM   #10366
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Those covers are basically a sticker. They won't have a noticeable effect on handling.
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:26 PM   #10367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lethallee69 View Post
what benefits do you get by using the new Exotek chassis? Does it work better with rubber tyres on ashpalt or carpet?
thanks , Lee
So far I'm noticing that its very well balanced left to right without adding any weight. As long as you're using some current electronics that don't weight a ton like the original BL speedos from years ago or ultra light low capacity lipo batteries. I'm running an LRP SXX speedo, micro receiver, Futaba low profile servo and an Orion 5000 pack on the other side. The 2oz of weight that are the battery brackets is just enough weight to balance out the car. And it's located in a good spot too. I would say the chassis is more for rubber tires. (on carpet or asphalt) Probably too much flex for a foam tire car, even if you put the TC5F top deck on.
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:42 PM   #10368
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Do you guys think that taping the bottom of the chassis or using those protective covers reduce flex?
Probably not enough to make a real difference especially when its less then 1mm think so it'll have lots of flex in it, at a guess it would flex as much as the chassis flexes.
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:57 PM   #10369
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Hmmmm....I raced a night without tape and the car ran great...along with a few other changes...Ill run without it from now on and hopefully it will get so bad Ill have to get a new chassis(exotek)...
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:12 PM   #10370
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Default Chassis

After running this car for a little over a year now, I have found that for my driving style I like the 2.5 mm chassis with a 2.0mm topdeck. The car for me at least is more stable over all and more consitent run to run
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:56 AM   #10371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Hmmmm....I raced a night without tape and the car ran great...along with a few other changes...Ill run without it from now on and hopefully it will get so bad Ill have to get a new chassis(exotek)...
+1
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:42 AM   #10372
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Default Don't purchase TB20023 for TC5 rear belt

Hi!

Don't purchase Team Bomber TB20023 for TC5 rear belt.

It is 63T not 64T and standard tc5 (20T/40T) can't handle it.

With cyclone 39T pulley is almost ok (try use exotek tc5 bearing holders for shaft) (but tc5 rear belt is better for 39T).


Regards!

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Old 07-24-2009, 05:13 PM   #10373
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hey any of u guys ran the tc5x from exotek yet plz give me honest opinion as i need new chassis and want to know if its worth it
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:20 PM   #10374
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Go back a few pages.
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:44 PM   #10375
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A young English associated team driver has purchased the exotek chassis and using our bulkheads.

I shall see if I can get an opinion from him on what difference he felt over the standard chassis when he next comes on xbox live
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:05 PM   #10376
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I got my exotek chassis today and just got finished putting it back together. Here are my impressions just on the build.

I did not end up using the battery holders. I couldn't get my SMC batteries snug enough. Taping and re-taping batteries is a pain to me, so I like to use straps. Well fortunately, I was able to use my tc5 battery setup. It uses the stock tc5 strap, but I use different posts. I probably could have gotten the exotek holders to work with some work, but my old setup seems to work just as well. Earlier, I asked of the tc5 battery strap will work with the exotek chassis and the answer is yes. I wanted to know if the length from hole to hole was the same and they are.

The steering post hole seems a bit thin, the front side of it. There is not a lot of material there. I know that if you crash hard enough anything will break, but this just seems like a weak point.

Servo hole options. I am using the outside holes. What situation would there be that you would use the inside holes? Do the make shorter servos? When I first saw the sets of holes, I though I would be able to position my servo more forwards or backwards. In my situation, there is only one position available. My servo does sit more forward.

Battery option holes and servo option holes. They worry me. They are all very close and look like weak points to me.

I don't like where the antenna mount location is. It is positioned where I put my receiver. Using exoteks location would force me to put my receiver on top of my servo. So I didn't use that location. I ended up putting the antenna mount in one of the battery wholes since I did not use the exotek battery holder. Has anyone drilled through a chassis before? Although it works, I don't like it. I have my antenna wire going across the floor of the chassis. I'd like to have it closer to the receiver. Can I simply drill a hole, counter sink it, then maybe glue the cut surfaces to keep it together?

Was sanding the side of the chassis necessary? I don't have 300 grit sand paper or blue loctite at the moment so I just ignored that step. If you guys feel it is necessary, I will do it. Other wise I'll pass on that.

@ exotek, is purchasing the chassis alone an option? I'm sure some people will need a replacement chassis at one point so excluding the battery holders could reduce some costs.

These issues are very minor to me. In the next two days I will be racing my car at two different places. When I see the extra grip, these issues will be quickly forgotten.

If anyone wants to see photos of what I am talking about, let me know. I can post them.

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Old 07-24-2009, 09:14 PM   #10377
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I have my Exoteck TC5 all ready to race tommorow. Everything fit well. I did sand the edges some and did the blue Locktite setup on the sides. Never did that before as I always used CA on my chassis edges. Have to say the Locktite setup looks good.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:19 PM   #10378
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Pakk, the close chassis holes are not a problem. It may be different if youve never seen them before, but there is not problem with them, all of Mike's micro chassis' are that way to accomodate different size servos, and the servo holes are never a fail point (the only real fail point ive seen is the wall ). A lot of companies run overlapping holes on shock towers as well (xray for instance)

Some servos are different thicknesses, so the situation will be different. I have a 9550 servo, and am running the forward holes (although the mount to the rear of the car has been narrowed up a bit)
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:22 PM   #10379
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Pakk,

What size SMC battery are you running?

As far as the steering post hole being thin, it is. I would say however that if you crashed hard enough to break the carbon in that area that you probably need a new car because the whole car would be demolished.

Regarding sanding the chassis, the rounded edges coupled with the Loctite will decrease the likelihood of the chassis being split in a crash.

Please give us an update once you have driven the car!
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:32 PM   #10380
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Exclusive video interview with Team Associated's Rich Hohwart is now up at www.rcevilempire.com. Rick talks about his current duties at AE, old school racing stories, the state of competitive batteries, his racing career and more. Its a great retrospective. Thanks to Rick for all his support!
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