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Old 07-21-2009, 08:45 PM   #10336
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What car was that, the Photon? Completely different caliber of drivers in 13.5 and RCGT.
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:00 PM   #10337
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Yeah, my initial plan was to stick my tc4 out till the photon panned out to see how it did. I wanted the to see the car readily available as well as all the parts. Well I saw a deal on a tc5 I couldn't pass up and grabbed it. When I got my tc5 my impressions were not that great. It's fit, finish, and quality seemed worse than my tc4. So for a second I started thinking about other cars, Xray and photon being at the top of the list.

The xray is nice, but literally no local support and a high price tag. For me to be comfortable, I think I'd be into that car a good $1000. And I could end up waiting months for the photon to be stocked.

So now I'm waiting on my exotek chassis


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Old 07-21-2009, 09:07 PM   #10338
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Some of the tolerances aren't as tight as some cars but the car works. The Exotek really transformed my TC5 and I have no complaints. The car is now on another level and for the first time, the car feels planted.
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:12 PM   #10339
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What setup changes did you make going to the exotek? Less rear toe? stiffer springs?


Also, what size spur gears are you guys running in the updated bulkheads?(do these bulkheads have a name?) I'm just curious to what is the biggest spur gear I can run.

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Old 07-21-2009, 09:34 PM   #10340
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To be honest with you, I didn't make any changes because I wanted to see how the car would react by simply installing the chassis.

For my next outing, I intend to make some changes because I would like to dial in more steering.

The chassis flex to me feels very similar to the standard TC5R chassis, however, the car feels very balanced when driving and feels more planted.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:11 PM   #10341
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I just switched the belts around, looks like doing pinion changes won't be as big of a hassle as it is the normal way around. But I think it may be rubbing on the servo saver tower.

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Old 07-21-2009, 10:22 PM   #10342
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I just put a 13.5 into my car. What final drive ratio should i be running on a track with a 130 ft back straight? I am running a 100 tooth spur 64 with a 36 tooth pinion.

thanks for our guys input.
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Last edited by Twotan; 07-21-2009 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:31 PM   #10343
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Depends on what motor and speedo you're running.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:38 PM   #10344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
Depends on what motor and speedo you're running.
LRP 13.5 and a Novak GTB.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:47 AM   #10345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
I just switched the belts around, looks like doing pinion changes won't be as big of a hassle as it is the normal way around. But I think it may be rubbing on the servo saver tower.

either way the belts are on they rub the servo saver post so ur damned if u do and damned if u dont
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:03 AM   #10346
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if you can flip the bearings in the one way you would be able to run it with the belts swaped.
A friend of mine tried doing that, and he found out the bearings are pressed in the housing. So I believe he switched the belts back. I never got a chance to work on the car last night. My daughter is in from out of town and the family and I went and played miniture golf last while the weather was good. One things for sure I have to work on my game. I'll see if I can get some time tonight to work on my car.

Last edited by MUDVAYNE; 07-22-2009 at 05:04 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 07-22-2009, 07:06 AM   #10347
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A friend of mine tried doing that, and he found out the bearings are pressed in the housing. So I believe he switched the belts back.
You can just put the pulley on the other side of the flange on the one way. I have done this and it works. It moves the belt over enough to clear everything.
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Old 07-22-2009, 07:06 AM   #10348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
A friend of mine tried doing that, and he found out the bearings are pressed in the housing. So I believe he switched the belts back. I never got a chance to work on the car last night. My daughter is in from out of town and the family and I went and played miniture golf last while the weather was good. One things for sure I have to work on my game. I'll see if I can get some time tonight to work on my car.
I did have my belts flipped but are track with the layouts we have a one way is faster since the track is flowing. I swithced it back before I ran it. The one way bearings where in very tight and I didn't want to damage them so I just scrapped the idea. If I only ran a spool or a diff then not a problem. I did seem to have any rubbing issues when flipped the belts but then again I also had my servo angled instead of the stock position so thats why mine didn't rub anywhere.

My new Exotek chassis should be in either today or tommorrow. I already changed my setup to where I want it so I just need to take the stuff off the old chassis and put it on the new chassis. Add electronics and wire neatly. Then go ahead and check all my camber, ride height and droop settings. I have two new bodies already painted so not sure if I will use the Mazda Speed 6 or the LTC which I have. Never ran the LTC yet but have ran the Mazda for alot time.
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Old 07-22-2009, 07:59 AM   #10349
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Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
yeah I tried to flip the pinion over, but the belt still rubs on the rounded side. I even tried narrower pinions, but they would have to be essentially only as wide as the teeth to fit.

You are right that I will not be able to run a one-way, and I hadn't thought of that, thanks for the heads-up.

The only solution I could think of, that wasn't flipping the belts, was to place shims between the motor and the mount, to move the pinion further out. However this defeats the point, since moving the motor closer to the centreline is one of the main advantages of the bulkheads.

If you find a way around the issue let me know, as I was contemplating trying a one-way at some point.

Regards

Neal
Neal - one solution I found was to grind the pinion access slot a bit deeper on the bottom of the motor bulkhead and flatten the armature of my BL motor back about 1/8". This and some pinions from RW Racing allows me to run the pinion/belts in the standard position with no belt rub. Check out my photos on page 669, post #10030. Drop me a line if you have any ???
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:43 AM   #10350
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Originally Posted by Valkman View Post
Neal - one solution I found was to grind the pinion access slot a bit deeper on the bottom of the motor bulkhead and flatten the armature of my BL motor back about 1/8". This and some pinions from RW Racing allows me to run the pinion/belts in the standard position with no belt rub. Check out my photos on page 669, post #10030. Drop me a line if you have any ???
I too tried the RW pinions, which helped but didn't quite work for me. I see that you would have to make the pinion access hole bigger, no problem. Removing things from an armature though I wouldn't be happy with. Possibly one problem I had that some others wouldn't is that I was running brushed. The new brushless motors have completely flat ends, whereas there is a bump to house the bearing in an old-style brushed motor. This would probably leave you with enough room now that I think about it.

What I will say is that with the belts swapped it becomes much much easier to change pinion, even from the origional motor mount. Looking at those pics it looks like a nightmare to change that pinion.

Also, on the issue of the belt rubbing on the servo saver post, mine always rubbed, even with origional belt positions. I don't mind though, if I really minded I could probably shim the layshaft and diffs clear, maybe not.

Thanks for the suggestion, but if the one-way does indeed work with the pulley screwed on the other side then I think swapping the belts is the more elegant solution.

Regards

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