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Old 07-16-2009, 05:02 PM   #10261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
There is a gentlman in England right now that is making some sweet looking bulkheads. My wife called me a little while ago and said a package had arrived, so I'm pretty sure thats it. I can't wait to get, but of course this is my late night to work. Anyway, I'm hoping to get started putting my Exotek Euro addition TC5 together soon. I'll post pics as I assemble also.
Yeah riding that stripper pole is a tough job on your late night.
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Old 07-16-2009, 06:56 PM   #10262
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I have bought parts from TIR for my TC5 and have had no problems, and I am looking to get some new parts for another car I have. My axles are over a year and a half old and have no wear and not broken anything. Actually the CVD's are awesome, they really give you a free drive train and no problems with them binding at full lock.
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:03 PM   #10263
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
I was looking at the differences between Josh H and Juho's world setup. Josh uses 2b/2b in the front whereas Juho uses 3b/3b. I'm still new to RC so still learning. I assume the difference is that 3b/3b gives the front a higher RC compared to 2b/2b. That means the car will feel more responsive and decreases the chance of a traction roll? I'm just trying to understand when 3b/3b is better suited to using 2b/2b.

Thanks!
Hi!

3b for front and rear for me it is easy drive on tech asphalt track, when
I must change directions very quick.
When I look to trf416 best driver, at last race, I saw that he lift up arm blocks
in his tamiyas.

2b should be better on bigger track when corners are fast, but I used to drive on 3B for all

Regards!
m.
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:35 AM   #10264
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Yeah riding that stripper pole is a tough job on your late night.
The stripper pole doesn't bother me so much, but the high heels and the garters start to chafe after a while. The new bulkheads did arrive last night, and I must say they look awesome. Can't wait to start the build.

Last edited by MUDVAYNE; 07-17-2009 at 04:36 AM. Reason: forgot a word
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Old 07-17-2009, 05:39 AM   #10265
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Get those pics of your finished car.
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:10 AM   #10266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

3b for front and rear for me it is easy drive on tech asphalt track, when
I must change directions very quick.
When I look to trf416 best driver, at last race, I saw that he lift up arm blocks
in his tamiyas.

2b should be better on bigger track when corners are fast, but I used to drive on 3B for all

Regards!
m.
Thank You!
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Old 07-17-2009, 11:07 AM   #10267
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[QUOTE=MUDVAYNE;6078930]The stripper pole doesn't bother me so much, but the high heels and the garters start to chafe after a while. "

I do believe that we all here need a good laugh so would you post pics of that. LOL no wait please dont there are kids on this site that dont need to be traumatized for life!!!LOL
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Old 07-17-2009, 11:33 AM   #10268
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[QUOTE=JdogL;6080057]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
The stripper pole doesn't bother me so much, but the high heels and the garters start to chafe after a while. "

I do believe that we all here need a good laugh so would you post pics of that. LOL no wait please dont there are kids on this site that dont need to be traumatized for life!!!LOL
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:02 PM   #10269
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Thats nothin'. I got out of the shower the other day and looked in the mirror and tramatized myself.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:45 PM   #10270
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So I ordered the TOP spool that was mentioned previously. I'll take pics ASAP.
The stock aluminum TC5 Spool is between 6-7 grams and the TOP steel spool is 11-12 grams. The unit does not use blades but does center the pulley perfectly, whereas its trial and error on the AE spool. The outdrives are quite a bit longer, so I may machine it down to be almost as short as possible to save weight.

For those curious, it is part # PO-ADT002. Top also makes an aluminum center pulley assembly, but I did not order one. My stock one has been fine for over a year...
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Old 07-17-2009, 03:42 PM   #10271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
So I ordered the TOP spool that was mentioned previously. I'll take pics ASAP.
The stock aluminum TC5 Spool is between 6-7 grams and the TOP steel spool is 11-12 grams. The unit does not use blades but does center the pulley perfectly, whereas its trial and error on the AE spool. The outdrives are quite a bit longer, so I may machine it down to be almost as short as possible to save weight.

For those curious, it is part # PO-ADT002. Top also makes an aluminum center pulley assembly, but I did not order one. My stock one has been fine for over a year...
You could if you had access to a mill make the outdrive slots larger for the blades to fit.
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:39 PM   #10272
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Of course. However I do not know anyone with access to a mill, BUT it looks like the machined lightening holes may accommodate a blade if I can find someone to mill the spool as I like. Blades with a steel spool should not be needed though... When blades break, and have room to "snap" into the spool sides under braking and acceleration is what kills these things. (Tagging barriers does not help either ;-) Since the TOP spool is machined to the width of the driveshaft pin, there should be MUCH less wear. Pics hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:19 PM   #10273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
So I ordered the TOP spool that was mentioned previously. I'll take pics ASAP.
The stock aluminum TC5 Spool is between 6-7 grams and the TOP steel spool is 11-12 grams. The unit does not use blades but does center the pulley perfectly, whereas its trial and error on the AE spool. The outdrives are quite a bit longer, so I may machine it down to be almost as short as possible to save weight.

For those curious, it is part # PO-ADT002. Top also makes an aluminum center pulley assembly, but I did not order one. My stock one has been fine for over a year...
I've been toying with the idea to build a "spliff". It would be a very durable diff that could easily convert to a slipper spool with 1 part. I have a design in my head and open machine time, and to my knowledge this has not been tried (at least how I want to do it) Most of all they would last!
How much interest do you suppose there would be in this?? I know I have bukuu outdrives that are grooved from just the blades alone, no blade tossing involved.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:20 PM   #10274
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Anyone running a novak gtb with 17.5 brushless on the tc5r? According to the site fdr is 3.5 which I calculated 72/40 and wondering if anyone is following the recommended fdr or is it staying cool with something higher than 3.5fdr?
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:25 PM   #10275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
I've been toying with the idea to build a "spliff". It would be a very durable diff that could easily convert to a slipper spool with 1 part. I have a design in my head and open machine time, and to my knowledge this has not been tried (at least how I want to do it) Most of all they would last!
How much interest do you suppose there would be in this?? I know I have bukuu outdrives that are grooved from just the blades alone, no blade tossing involved.
Verndog, I would very interested in trying it out. I sure love your PPD lipo weights...I don't understand the trend to have a "lipo" chassis without battery cutouts. Your solution has been best IMO. I would like the Exotech battery brace though IF the standoffs were normal length, but not the chassis.
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