Originally Posted by wyd
I don't worry about the slop too much. Some slop will never affect the cars handling. I actually took a car and shimmed out all of the slop one time and it was the worst handling car and never would go straight. I then took all the shims I put in out so it would have the slop again and was amazed how well the car worked and how it would now go straight.
I think many get too carried away and worried about slop because some 5$500 plus car has less slop than are $350 car. Work on setup more and maybe shim a little slop out but just run it because the slop won't hurt you.
I remember when I ran for Schumacher and Chris Tossolini at that time won the Nationals and also raced for Schumacher. I was on vacation in Florida and stopped by Schumacher to get some parts and check out the place. They had Chris's touring car at the shop and when I looked at it it had easily 3 times more slop than my Schumahcer car did but he didn't have no problems that year lapping the field with his car. Main thing is slop is just not really a huge problem. Ever since that I don't worry about it too much. I will just change out totally worn parts in the drive train but mostother slop I just leave it in the car.
I tend to agree with you but it makes me mad when I go to set camber and the wheel moves +/- 1 degree and
also when I try to set the toe and the same +/- 1 degree shows up again. That's why I don't own a set up
station. It seems useless to me with that much slop in the car.
I replaced a lot of stuff in the TC5, so much so, that I'm not sure I can call it a TC5 anymore.
Anyway here's what I did .....
I replaced all the AE ball cups with LOsi rod ends (6017). The rod ends are shorter then the AE ball
cups so you will have to use longer turnbuckles.
I replaced the AE ball studs with HPI ball studs (75115 short, 75116 long) because I think they are
a tighter fit. That's up to you.
I replaced the AE c hubs and knuckles with Losi parts. I don't have the part #s but they have two kind.
One has only one hole in it for the tie rod and the other has two holes. I started with the one hole
knuckle but I had to make an extension to pick up the hole positions on the AE knuckle so as to keep
the same ackerman geometry. I attached the extension using the exsisting hole plus a hole I drilled for
a 2-56 screw so that the extension wouldn't rotate.
I then tried the the two hole knuckle without an extension. I just used the rearward hole. It's not the
same ackerman but close.
BTW you have to drill out the Losi c hub hindge pin hole to 3 mm so you can use the AE hindge pin.
The Losi parts are English so you have to use the Losi axle and bearings. That's a good thing because
it takes away the slop of the AE axle and bearing. I used the Losi LCD's and it worked great and is
smooth with a spool.
I liked the LCD's so much I put them on the rear. Again I had to use Losi parts for the rear. I had to
machine the Losi rear upright down because it was too tall and would have given me a high camber gain if
I didn't. You might be able to use the upright as is and move the inside camber link position up one hole.
You don't have to do any of this in the rear but I just wanted to get rid of the AE axle and bearing.
I replaced the AE shocks with Tamiya shocks.
I replaced the AE flathead screws with Xray only because I thought the AE screws looked cheap.
Not necessary, but what the hell.
Having re-read this I think I went a little over the top but I love building and modifying, maybe a little
more then racing.
Like I said I don't know if I can still call this a TC5 ....