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Old 06-13-2009, 10:13 AM   #9781
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I actually run the solid spool and haven't really experienced any issues. Be sure that you are ready to inspect after any impacts to avoid damaging the outdrives.
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Old 06-13-2009, 11:14 AM   #9782
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I am getting a new in box TC5(not R) pretty cheap and plan on using it for VTA. Does anyone have a good setup and build options I should look into getting as I build it? It will be run with a Tekin RS /21.5 combo and Checkpoint LiPo. Thanks.
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:03 PM   #9783
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What front and rear pully's are being used on the tc5 pictured in the link below? Thanks

http://edseb.smugmug.com/gallery/853...61902792_EbKje
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:19 AM   #9784
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Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
the tc5 takes bone blades on the pins for the diff that is the week point and since the diffs are aluminum and the cvds are hardened steel u can figure which will wear so thats y they use bone blades the tc4 didnt use these thats y u can get away with a solid spool
So are the bone blades a good thing to get? My kit was the FT and it doesn't come with them. Something has gotta give when it comes to comes to wear and tear, it's normal for cars both 1:1 and 1:10 have parts that gotta be replaced more often then others.

Has anyone tried using the TC4 cvd's in a TC5?
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:16 AM   #9785
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
So are the bone blades a good thing to get? My kit was the FT and it doesn't come with them. Something has gotta give when it comes to comes to wear and tear, it's normal for cars both 1:1 and 1:10 have parts that gotta be replaced more often then others.

Has anyone tried using the TC4 cvd's in a TC5?
I run the bone blades on my TC5 with the alum rear diff and the alum front spool and really like them. Been running 17.5 and 13.5 for weeks and the bones look great. Cheap and easy to replace
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:27 AM   #9786
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Been running the TC5R for a few weeks now. I must say I been out of touring for a few years but after running the car for a few weeks I find it really steers well most of the time. So much so that this week on the outdoor track I was at even with good tires I had mad steering.

Car seems a little on the stiff side with #57 pistons and 35wt oil in it with Assoc blue front springs and Assoc silver springs. I run 2A roll center blocks all the way around. Car overall seems just a little bouncy of the some of the rough stuff compared to others at are track. Need to work on that a little but as well.

Wonder if it is better to use Associated #2 pistons and 35 instead if they are overall just at touch softer. Still messing with the car and learning it so next time out a few more changes and see what happens. Been fun so far.
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:06 AM   #9787
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Originally Posted by bmcallister View Post
What front and rear pully's are being used on the tc5 pictured in the link below? Thanks

http://edseb.smugmug.com/gallery/853...61902792_EbKje
If it's a pic of a team drivers car, it might be something that they could be testing. Or maybe they're white because someone is trying the yokomo diff pulleys. I'm pretty sure the front belt off the Yokomo car fits the TC5, why not the pulleys too? Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:11 AM   #9788
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Default 4 deg vs 6 deg front caster

What effect does changing the front caster fron 4 deg to 6 have on the car?
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:15 AM   #9789
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Rick or anyone at AE who can answer,

http://edseb.smugmug.com/gallery/853...61902792_EbKje

Can we hope to see the motor modification available soon ?

Thanks.
Sebastien.
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:12 AM   #9790
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Originally Posted by Cubic$Racing View Post
What effect does changing the front caster fron 4 deg to 6 have on the car?
4 degree blocks have more steering entering the corner and a little less middle exit steering on power. 6 degree blocks are just the opposite. A little smoother on off power entry steering and more middle/exit on power steering.

I found on really high bite tracks 6 degree blocks are smoother to drive but most of the tracks I go to are medium traction where 4 degree blocks work better.
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:22 AM   #9791
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4 degree blocks have more steering entering the corner and a little less middle exit steering on power. 6 degree blocks are just the opposite. A little smoother on off power entry steering and more middle/exit on power steering.

I found on really high bite tracks 6 degree blocks are smoother to drive but most of the tracks I go to are medium traction where 4 degree blocks work better.
Where did you race yesterday and how was the car?
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:26 AM   #9792
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
If it's a pic of a team drivers car, it might be something that they could be testing. Or maybe they're white because someone is trying the yokomo diff pulleys. I'm pretty sure the front belt off the Yokomo car fits the TC5, why not the pulleys too? Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.
Have you noticed the ball joints as well on the diff caps...

Would be interesting to know what sort of difference these make
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:30 AM   #9793
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Where did you race yesterday and how was the car?
Trains and Lanes on a medium grip track. Car wasn't too bad but I did have mad on power steering that would rip the back end where ever I wanted it to go. I was working on getting more rear traction.

I'm going ot order the Diggity offset lipo tray as that will balance out my car even more and expect will help with the overall smoothness of my car. Its still a work in progress and I didn't barely scratch the surface of the things I want try try with the car yet but over the next few weeks I will be going back to T&L to work on the car. Going to Frederick is nice but with the high traction it don't really help me when other than that track most don't have near that kind of traction so learning about getting traction in the car don't really do me any good.

Overall still very happy with the car, I just need to learn what it wants vs some of my other cars I had. Plus running brushless just adds to learning setups even more for the car so I have a different learning curve now than I was use to when I quit running touring almost 3 years ago.
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:39 AM   #9794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Priest View Post
Have you noticed the ball joints as well on the diff caps...

Would be interesting to know what sort of difference these make
Camber link position maybe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Trains and Lanes on a medium grip track. Car wasn't too bad but I did have mad on power steering that would rip the back end where ever I wanted it to go. I was working on getting more rear traction.

I'm going ot order the Diggity offset lipo tray as that will balance out my car even more and expect will help with the overall smoothness of my car. Its still a work in progress and I didn't barely scratch the surface of the things I want try try with the car yet but over the next few weeks I will be going back to T&L to work on the car. Going to Frederick is nice but with the high traction it don't really help me when other than that track most don't have near that kind of traction so learning about getting traction in the car don't really do me any good.

Overall still very happy with the car, I just need to learn what it wants vs some of my other cars I had. Plus running brushless just adds to learning setups even more for the car so I have a different learning curve now than I was use to when I quit running touring almost 3 years ago.
Thats cool. I willing to bet that you didn't run the blue tires yesterday either. I totally understand about Frederick. Lots of traction there. I remeber almost walking out of my shoes going to my turn marshalling position at the last sedan challenge I went to. I'll give you a call this week. There is some material I got for the cutters that we use at work for touchless car bra's and I think it might be beneficail to our cause. I'll be home today if you wanna call.
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:03 AM   #9795
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Have you noticed the ball joints as well on the diff caps...

Would be interesting to know what sort of difference these make
You mean the silver ones on the bulkheads?

I was surprised to see the associated ball cups. I hate those things. So crappy/flimsy. I like to think I'm fairly gentle with these and I broke 2 in the first month, just working on the car (not even racing). The RPM ones feel so much stronger and have less play.
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