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Old 06-10-2009, 11:08 AM   #9766
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I bought my TC5R used and never took my slipper spool apart yet to see who it was put together but I have used it and had no problems so I take it that it was built correctly.

I will have to tear it down some to see how it was done just so I know when I really need to redo it I already know what to replace to get it like new again.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:27 PM   #9767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
trust me use the thrust ballsif not it will loosen up first time u hit the brakes and as far as tension run it down snug and then a half a turn
+1 with MrCrum, I run the slipper tight with the thrust balls installed. No problems what so ever, I've even taken it apart once or twice to make sure everthings all good inside, no problems. I also have to admit that I hate rebuilding diffs, so one less diff per week has been great !!

FYI - one oddity I did run into on Rick Hohwart's Worlds set-up was the t-nut hit the right side bone blade with the narrow front suspension. Seemed to have the same interference with either the black TC5 nut or the white TC3 nut. I ended up grinding off about .080" off the thrust spring to gain clearance. Working fine, spring still has plenty of tension.

Front slipper is clearly my preference.
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:20 PM   #9768
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anyboby have a set-up for ocrc carpet track for 13.5 rubber tires
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:37 PM   #9769
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Hey guys,

Lost my home track and dont have anywhere to run on-road so im selling my car Im sticking with AE but going to run off road, if anyone is interested in this car please PM me.

Sean


**********TC5R Roller**********
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:12 PM   #9770
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Nice ride. If you decided to spilt up, let me know. PPD is out of the battery trays and tc5 side weights.
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:20 PM   #9771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzuguy View Post
anyboby have a set-up for ocrc carpet track for 13.5 rubber tires
This is the best I have found to date.

edit: with a spool and not a oneway
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rubber-carpet 2009$.pdf (145.0 KB, 239 views)
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:15 AM   #9772
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thks josh
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Old 06-13-2009, 03:02 AM   #9773
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I've looked everywhere and can't find what the stock (comes w/ kit) gearing is for the TC5r. Anyone know? I just need a good starting point. Just bought a used car and the gearing is WAY off.

Is it like 29/87 ish?
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Old 06-13-2009, 03:24 AM   #9774
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Originally Posted by markhat250 View Post
I've looked everywhere and can't find what the stock (comes w/ kit) gearing is for the TC5r. Anyone know? I just need a good starting point. Just bought a used car and the gearing is WAY off.

Is it like 29/87 ish?
If the kit spur hasn't changed from the FT to the R it would be an 87 spur and no pinions come with the kit. When I built my FT I put on one of my 69's and put on a 37 pinion. Thats geared to 3.6 my 1:1 car standard is geared to 3.54.

I've got a couple questions,
Is the spring for the diff critical for the running of the diff, I could only build my diff's without the spring. But they are only the plastic diff's and are going to replaced by an alloy and spool.

Also is the Aluminum Diff Kit (31182) a complete diff? And is the Spool Kit (31179) a solid axle? I don't want a slipper, just a solid axle.

Are the ITF upper and lower decks the ones that come with the R?
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Old 06-13-2009, 07:39 AM   #9775
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Has anyone tried to run overdrive in tc5(41t pulley in front)? And why nobody is driving with 2 diffs?
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:48 AM   #9776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
If the kit spur hasn't changed from the FT to the R it would be an 87 spur and no pinions come with the kit. When I built my FT I put on one of my 69's and put on a 37 pinion. Thats geared to 3.6 my 1:1 car standard is geared to 3.54.

I've got a couple questions,
Is the spring for the diff critical for the running of the diff, I could only build my diff's without the spring. But they are only the plastic diff's and are going to replaced by an alloy and spool.

Also is the Aluminum Diff Kit (31182) a complete diff? And is the Spool Kit (31179) a solid axle? I don't want a slipper, just a solid axle.

Are the ITF upper and lower decks the ones that come with the R?
ok let me answer all ur questions the spring is a must u have to make sure u get the nut all the way in the black plastic t part
when u replace the plastic with aluminum u can get a tnut from a rc10 t3 they work great as far as the diffs are concerned u can save yourself some money i run plastic diff in rear and trust me ur gona want a slipper spool instead of the solid spool the slipper is less damaging on ur cvds hope this helps
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:49 AM   #9777
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For gearing questions, really helps to know what turn motor you running? And the spring is very important. For diffs make sure the nut is completely pressed into the plastic part. Then squeeze springs with pliers a few times. Everyone I have seen run a solid axle on the tc5, shatter driveshafts on any slight hit. I like the weight savings of the plastic diffs, but I run 10.5. On my 10.5 I run 32/87 gearing. R comes with ITF chassis.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
If the kit spur hasn't changed from the FT to the R it would be an 87 spur and no pinions come with the kit. When I built my FT I put on one of my 69's and put on a 37 pinion. Thats geared to 3.6 my 1:1 car standard is geared to 3.54.

I've got a couple questions,
Is the spring for the diff critical for the running of the diff, I could only build my diff's without the spring. But they are only the plastic diff's and are going to replaced by an alloy and spool.

Also is the Aluminum Diff Kit (31182) a complete diff? And is the Spool Kit (31179) a solid axle? I don't want a slipper, just a solid axle.

Are the ITF upper and lower decks the ones that come with the R?
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:54 AM   #9778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkman View Post
+1 with MrCrum, I run the slipper tight with the thrust balls installed. No problems what so ever, I've even taken it apart once or twice to make sure everthings all good inside, no problems. I also have to admit that I hate rebuilding diffs, so one less diff per week has been great !!

FYI - one oddity I did run into on Rick Hohwart's Worlds set-up was the t-nut hit the right side bone blade with the narrow front suspension. Seemed to have the same interference with either the black TC5 nut or the white TC3 nut. I ended up grinding off about .080" off the thrust spring to gain clearance. Working fine, spring still has plenty of tension.

Front slipper is clearly my preference.
wat i did was take a dremel with a round point bit and just take out the material that the bone blade hits
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Old 06-13-2009, 09:22 AM   #9779
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I'm using a 17.5 on a large open track with one wall other wise its all grass when the car isn't on the track. 5th scale tourers race where I race. Gearing isn't a problem for me, I've worked that part out and just need to put it into practice. I already that chances are I'll be playing around with pinions between 34 and 37.

I've compressed the spring a few times using both pliers and vice's. The problem I'm having is with the stupid nut in the plastic cup (my only gripe with the kit) I got it in the cup only partially and the nut is on a angle. I want the alloy diff regardless of weight. Without the spring the diff still works how it should, just that it isn't set at the proper tightness properly. Is having the diff spring less mean is going to damage the diff?

Concerning the spool, has the TC5 cvd's gone backward in strength compared to the TC4 cvd's?? I've been running my TC4 (I do realise the cars are different) with solid front and alloy read diff no problems. Plus I'm very likely not to hit anything.
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Old 06-13-2009, 11:09 AM   #9780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
I'm using a 17.5 on a large open track with one wall other wise its all grass when the car isn't on the track. 5th scale tourers race where I race. Gearing isn't a problem for me, I've worked that part out and just need to put it into practice. I already that chances are I'll be playing around with pinions between 34 and 37.

I've compressed the spring a few times using both pliers and vice's. The problem I'm having is with the stupid nut in the plastic cup (my only gripe with the kit) I got it in the cup only partially and the nut is on a angle. I want the alloy diff regardless of weight. Without the spring the diff still works how it should, just that it isn't set at the proper tightness properly. Is having the diff spring less mean is going to damage the diff?

Concerning the spool, has the TC5 cvd's gone backward in strength compared to the TC4 cvd's?? I've been running my TC4 (I do realise the cars are different) with solid front and alloy read diff no problems. Plus I'm very likely not to hit anything.
the tc5 takes bone blades on the pins for the diff that is the week point and since the diffs are aluminum and the cvds are hardened steel u can figure which will wear so thats y they use bone blades the tc4 didnt use these thats y u can get away with a solid spool
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