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Old 06-09-2009, 08:10 AM   #9751
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Thanks a ton!!!



I never had a pack come out but my F-ing fingers would be hurting after a race from the thumb screws. Ive since been using tape and I love it...give it a try...
If the grub screws are too tight, you will tweak the chassis.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:18 AM   #9752
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Hey guys, just wanted to hear your thoughts on some rear suspension adjustments.

1. Rear hub camber position A vs. B, what differences would you expect and when would you run one or the other ??

2. Rear hub toe, what's the real difference between running 3 degree rear toe with arm mount shims vs. let's say 2 degrees with the shims and another 1 degree @ the hub ?? Same thing, what difference would you expect and when would you run ??

These are a couple minor adjustments I've thought about recently that are really not covered in the XXX Main set-up book.

Thanks,
1. Changing the camber link from inside to outside increases the length of the camber link, which should result in less camber gain when the car is in the corner. The conventional thinking seems to be that a longer link provides more grip, but as for all things RC setup related it will be dependent on a number of other factors, specifically your inner camber link.

2. The main difference is that with a mixture of hub toe and shims, you have smaller angles in the CVD joint, say 1.5* where the driveshaft meets the diff outdrive and a further 1.5* angle in the hub. Whereas if you only have 3* hubs the driveshaft and outdrive connection will be straight and there will be a bigger angle at the hub. So

Question is then whether it is best to spread the angles out between the 2, since it makes sense to me to minimise angles but also makes sense to have thedriveshaft straight into the outdrive.

In the end though for handling they both provide the same toe, so the only difference might be some extra driveline friction.

Regards

Neal
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:46 AM   #9753
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If the grub screws are too tight, you will tweak the chassis.
if there too loose you loose your battery on a sweeper.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:47 AM   #9754
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I have heard from others that having outboard rear toe in a car gives more rear traction and is better in bumpy scenarios
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:05 AM   #9755
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Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
1. Changing the camber link from inside to outside increases the length of the camber link, which should result in less camber gain when the car is in the corner. The conventional thinking seems to be that a longer link provides more grip, but as for all things RC setup related it will be dependent on a number of other factors, specifically your inner camber link.

2. The main difference is that with a mixture of hub toe and shims, you have smaller angles in the CVD joint, say 1.5* where the driveshaft meets the diff outdrive and a further 1.5* angle in the hub. Whereas if you only have 3* hubs the driveshaft and outdrive connection will be straight and there will be a bigger angle at the hub. So

Question is then whether it is best to spread the angles out between the 2, since it makes sense to me to minimise angles but also makes sense to have thedriveshaft straight into the outdrive.

In the end though for handling they both provide the same toe, so the only difference might be some extra driveline friction.

Regards

Neal
Neal and John S., thanks for the input. Makes a lot of sense, I'm going to try both to see what effect they have on the car. I would consider our track medium bite asphalt that can get a bit loose by the end of the run and the A/B link mount and outer rear toe may just be what I'm looking for. I also like the thought on driveline friction. I run in 17.5 stock and I'm looking for any possible improvement in driveline effeciency.

I'll post my thoughts on the results after this weekend's run.

Thanks again !!
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:56 AM   #9756
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I have heard from others that having outboard rear toe in a car gives more rear traction and is better in bumpy scenarios
Inboard toe in shortens up the car more than toe in on the hubs so yes inboard toe does give a little more traction overall than out at the hubs.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:34 AM   #9757
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Inboard toe in shortens up the car more than toe in on the hubs so yes inboard toe does give a little more traction overall than out at the hubs.
Nice. Good discussion... been wondering that same question on the rear toe myself. thanks guys for the Q&A.
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:51 PM   #9758
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have any of u guys ran the protoform ltc-r body yet if so plz post your feedback
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Old 06-09-2009, 02:56 PM   #9759
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have any of u guys ran the protoform ltc-r body yet if so plz post your feedback
works great major downforce helps hold the road.
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:52 PM   #9760
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anyone have a setup sheet that would work good with a carpet track like RC Plus in Oregon?
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:05 PM   #9761
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have any of u guys ran the protoform ltc-r body yet if so plz post your feedback
LTC-R is great, more steering than a Mazdaspeed 6, without sacrificing rear downforce
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:57 PM   #9762
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I just purchased the slipper spool. I do remember reading from a search to run the thrust balls. What I am confused about is how tight should the spool be? Is it similar to building a diff with 1/8 turn out?
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:14 PM   #9763
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I just purchased the slipper spool. I do remember reading from a search to run the thrust balls. What I am confused about is how tight should the spool be? Is it similar to building a diff with 1/8 turn out?
No thrust balls just the washers.

Did it come with the balls I don't think mine did?
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:09 AM   #9764
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
I just purchased the slipper spool. I do remember reading from a search to run the thrust balls. What I am confused about is how tight should the spool be? Is it similar to building a diff with 1/8 turn out?
I adjusted mine with my index finger and thumb I tightened it to where my index finger nail would turn white while trying to turn it and may be add 1/16 of a turn. I don't know what exactly it's called but I learned it from an old factory driver.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:21 AM   #9765
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
I just purchased the slipper spool. I do remember reading from a search to run the thrust balls. What I am confused about is how tight should the spool be? Is it similar to building a diff with 1/8 turn out?
trust me use the thrust ballsif not it will loosen up first time u hit the brakes and as far as tension run it down snug and then a half a turn
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