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Old 06-08-2009, 07:19 AM   #9736
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
The original TC5 comes with "stiff" 2.5mm chassis and upper deck, the R comes with the ITF 2.0mm parts. Also the TC5 come with plastic diff outdrives, the R uses alloy with the option of the slipper spool.
Cheers for the info, R sounds good just for the alloy outdrives. After seeing the wear on the alloy outdrives on my TC4 I'd hate to imagine the plastic ones. Strength isn't a problem as car breakege is almost non-existant for my class.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:05 AM   #9737
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Originally Posted by Jason Turner View Post
Okay guys I bought the ITF chassis and mounted it sealed it ran it and now noticed that it's one of the ones with the counter sunk holes too big is there anything I can do about it?

Can it be replaced?

Is it okay that way?

Or can I fix it somehow?
i sent mine in with the upper deck numerous weeks ago just happened to call them today and they said they would get to it today i think the quality control needs to be stepped up a notch considering i paid for the chassis and upper deck a while ago and also spent lots of time glueng the chassis till it looked like glass ae get it together and make sure thunder tiger gets it right the first time been running ae cars for years and noticed a drop off in quality control since tt took it over
weavernator out
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:39 AM   #9738
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Hey guys - new to RC Tech, I've been racing a TC5 for about nine months now and it's been a great car. I've read just about every page of this forum and thought it was time to chime in.

Just changed to Rick Hohwart's '08 World's set-up three weeks ago. I run rubber tires on a medium grip asphalt track in MI - Lazer Speedway (Hey Russ and Leslie !!), this setup has been great !!

Made a few changes mainly to shorten the wheelbase because we have a couple of tight 180's, but the car handles and responds fantastic. Running the diffs and a-arms all the way up looked a little strange at first but I think this is the best set-up I've had on the car yet.

Looking forward to helping out where I can and learning from the best !!
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:17 AM   #9739
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i sent mine in with the upper deck numerous weeks ago just happened to call them today and they said they would get to it today i think the quality control needs to be stepped up a notch considering i paid for the chassis and upper deck a while ago and also spent lots of time glueng the chassis till it looked like glass ae get it together and make sure thunder tiger gets it right the first time been running ae cars for years and noticed a drop off in quality control since tt took it over
weavernator out
Sounds like what happened to Losi when Horizon took over. When I bought my first JRXS it literally fell together. When I got the type R, nothing fit right, parts molded wrong, etc.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:38 AM   #9740
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I'm setting my car up with the Rick's worlds 2008 setup. I'm a little confused with the droop settings. Since the ride height is 5mm both front and back. He's listing front droop as 7 and rear as 6mm. I'm assuming 2mm over RH in the front and 1mm or RH in the rear?
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:09 PM   #9741
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
I'm setting my car up with the Rick's worlds 2008 setup. I'm a little confused with the droop settings. Since the ride height is 5mm both front and back. He's listing front droop as 7 and rear as 6mm. I'm assuming 2mm over RH in the front and 1mm or RH in the rear?
No, those numbers refer to numbers on the droop gauge. It will change depending on the tires you are running but if you go 1mm above rh in the front and 2mm in the rear you should be good.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:44 PM   #9742
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Hey guys, when measuring droop...is it correct to have the tires off, take the shocks and sway bars off and use a ride height gauge under the furthest end of the arm? With the chassis on a flat surface. Thanks...
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:54 PM   #9743
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Hey guys, when measuring droop...is it correct to have the tires off, take the shocks and sway bars off and use a ride height gauge under the furthest end of the arm? With the chassis on a flat surface. Thanks...
yes but i leave the shocks on
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:32 AM   #9744
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Hey guys, when measuring droop...is it correct to have the tires off, take the shocks and sway bars off and use a ride height gauge under the furthest end of the arm? With the chassis on a flat surface. Thanks...
Like this:
#3987 Droop Gauge. Supplement to the manual
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/ins...droopgauge.PDF

Detach shocks and sway bars.

Regards!



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Old 06-09-2009, 04:33 AM   #9745
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Like this:
#3987 Droop Gauge. Supplement to the manual
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/ins...droopgauge.PDF

Detach shocks and sway bars.

Regards!



m.
So if I'm understanding this correctly, the higher the number on the gauge, the less droop you will have?
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:20 AM   #9746
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So if I'm understanding this correctly, the higher the number on the gauge, the less droop you will have?
Yes. Higher a-arm (downstop) -> less droop, lower a-arm -> more droop.

Hope it helps.



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Old 06-09-2009, 06:13 AM   #9747
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Default Rear Suspension Adjustments

Hey guys, just wanted to hear your thoughts on some rear suspension adjustments.

1. Rear hub camber position A vs. B, what differences would you expect and when would you run one or the other ??

2. Rear hub toe, what's the real difference between running 3 degree rear toe with arm mount shims vs. let's say 2 degrees with the shims and another 1 degree @ the hub ?? Same thing, what difference would you expect and when would you run ??

These are a couple minor adjustments I've thought about recently that are really not covered in the XXX Main set-up book.

Thanks,
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:34 AM   #9748
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Default tire issue

well i had another race this past sunday with no problem blowing my tires off. i changed from Jacco 27 to takeoff 30's and they seemed to grip better and hold my line even tighter. i was in 1st place in the main untill i lost a thumb screw for the battery hold down and had a lipo go sliding across the track. which ended in a 3rd place finish. oh well looks like i need to invest in some strapping tape or a lipo tray, or maybe both.
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:56 AM   #9749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Yes. Higher a-arm (downstop) -> less droop, lower a-arm -> more droop.

Hope it helps.



m.
Thanks a ton!!!

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well i had another race this past sunday with no problem blowing my tires off. i changed from Jacco 27 to takeoff 30's and they seemed to grip better and hold my line even tighter. i was in 1st place in the main untill i lost a thumb screw for the battery hold down and had a lipo go sliding across the track. which ended in a 3rd place finish. oh well looks like i need to invest in some strapping tape or a lipo tray, or maybe both.
I never had a pack come out but my F-ing fingers would be hurting after a race from the thumb screws. Ive since been using tape and I love it...give it a try...
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:58 AM   #9750
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
So if I'm understanding this correctly, the higher the number on the gauge, the less droop you will have?
Good to see I'm not the only one who realizes the droop gauge might be the worst way to measure an R/C car ever invented.
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