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Old 05-23-2009, 02:35 AM   #9571
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Originally Posted by Hyde View Post
I've read here that people take off a motor mount mounting screw?

Which screw is that? The one that goes in the bulkhead or the front chassis screw?
Its the screw that connects the motor mount to the rear bulkhead
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Old 05-23-2009, 11:10 PM   #9572
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Hey guys, I am looking for a little set-up help...I cant get my car to stop pushing...I have the problem in every part of every corner, on and off power. I have the same chassis setup as most of the expert drivers at my track and cant seem to get it right. I am running rubber tire outdoor on smooth asphault sprayed with soda.

I have silver springs and 45w up front and have tried blue and green with 40wt in the rear wich is what everyone else is running. I have the droop set at 5mm all around and 5mm ride height in front and have tried 5 and 5.5mm in the rear. I am running 36rs which seems to work for everyone else. Brushed 27t. Chassis balanced with equal amounts of weight in the front and rear of the battery side. 6* caster. I have gone from 1* to 2* camber front and rear and .5* to 3* rear to and 0 front toe.

When I first set the car on the track with clean tires in hooks up great for a lap than starts fading and feels like plastic tires up front after 3 laps...

Thanks for any advice you can give, Joe.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:57 AM   #9573
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Try 4 deg caster.
Move your rear shocks to a more upright position on the mount and try running the front shocks on the inner most hole on the mount and outer most hole on the wishbone.
-2 camber all round.
I always run with 2 deg inboard toe in at the rear with 1 deg hubs which helps the car rotate a bit better.
When using the spool I run 1 deg toe out in the front.
In the shocks try the losi black pistons with a tamiya diaphragm and no rebound foam.
Droop 6 front and 5 rear.
5.5mm rear ride height and 5mm front.
I have been running HPI Blue rear spings and HPI Silver fronts recently which I have liked.
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:14 AM   #9574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Hey guys, I am looking for a little set-up help...I cant get my car to stop pushing...I have the problem in every part of every corner, on and off power. I have the same chassis setup as most of the expert drivers at my track and cant seem to get it right. I am running rubber tire outdoor on smooth asphault sprayed with soda.

I have silver springs and 45w up front and have tried blue and green with 40wt in the rear wich is what everyone else is running. I have the droop set at 5mm all around and 5mm ride height in front and have tried 5 and 5.5mm in the rear. I am running 36rs which seems to work for everyone else. Brushed 27t. Chassis balanced with equal amounts of weight in the front and rear of the battery side. 6* caster. I have gone from 1* to 2* camber front and rear and .5* to 3* rear to and 0 front toe.

When I first set the car on the track with clean tires in hooks up great for a lap than starts fading and feels like plastic tires up front after 3 laps...

Thanks for any advice you can give, Joe.
Which 36Rs are you running and what are the temps of the track? It sounds like you may be lacking overall grip.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:54 AM   #9575
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Thanks Kenny Clark, I am running the Speedmind premounted Sorex 36s...The first heat was about 105* and the main was about 80* but the car felt the same all night.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:30 PM   #9576
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Originally Posted by Chuckyluv View Post
why not run a rubber band and twist it till it almost breaks!!!!... I hope you find a combination here that we will all try and maybe run out of town
chucky you know i only use the bread ties on the nitro heli
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:45 AM   #9577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_S View Post
Its the screw that connects the motor mount to the rear bulkhead
i always thought it was the front screw on the chassis ... wrong again! anyway, what does removing the screw connecting the motor mount to the bulkhead do?
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:55 AM   #9578
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Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
hey guys i had the same problem. there was a bad batch of chassis and associated knows about it. i sent mine back and they sent me a replacement and it was perfect
I haven't seen a lot of people mention this, but I figured I'd add that I haven't had any luck contacting Associated. I'm guessing they were busy last week preparing for the Reedy Race, but multiple phone calls to customer service went unanswered (I was on hold as the #1 person in line for 10+ min each times). My voicemail also went unanswered and I tried faxing them a form last Friday (near the end of the day).

Did you have to mail your chassis back for them to send a replacement? At this point, I'm kinda frustrated. QC and customer service have cost them the sale of a B44. I'm gonna end up buying a ZX-5 or D4 for off-road.
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:54 AM   #9579
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Originally Posted by ROBORAT View Post
i always thought it was the front screw on the chassis ... wrong again! anyway, what does removing the screw connecting the motor mount to the bulkhead do?
I have tried both removing the bulkhead screw and the forward motor mount screw and I think it's a better idea to remove the forward motor mount screw that screws from beneath. Someone pointed out that removing the bulkhead screw might cause havok with you drivetrain since the pinion can separate from the spur slightly which I have to concede might cause problems at high cornering speeds.

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Old 05-25-2009, 06:28 AM   #9580
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Does anyone make an aluminum spur gear holder for the TC5 instead of the plastic one that comes stock for the car?
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:30 AM   #9581
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Does anyone make an aluminum spur gear holder for the TC5 instead of the plastic one that comes stock for the car?
i seen one but its from that europe company that people have trouble getting there orders sorry bout the name i forgot it
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:32 AM   #9582
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Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
i seen one but its from that europe company that people have trouble getting there orders sorry bout the name i forgot it
Thanks. I guess I will have to have a buddy of mine make me a one then.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:19 AM   #9583
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TOP racing makes one. I've been using it for a year now, and it's very good.

http://www.topracingusa.com/
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:16 AM   #9584
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Originally Posted by stonedgti View Post
TOP racing makes one. I've been using it for a year now, and it's very good.

http://www.topracingusa.com/
Thanks. I just emailed them to see if you have any in stock. Appreciate the info.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:36 PM   #9585
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Originally Posted by BlueEagle View Post
I haven't seen a lot of people mention this, but I figured I'd add that I haven't had any luck contacting Associated. I'm guessing they were busy last week preparing for the Reedy Race, but multiple phone calls to customer service went unanswered (I was on hold as the #1 person in line for 10+ min each times). My voicemail also went unanswered and I tried faxing them a form last Friday (near the end of the day).

Did you have to mail your chassis back for them to send a replacement? At this point, I'm kinda frustrated. QC and customer service have cost them the sale of a B44. I'm gonna end up buying a ZX-5 or D4 for off-road.
I have never heard of any problems like this for the B44 it's made by AE I heard the TC5 is made by someone else so maybe thats why?
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