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Old 04-21-2009, 08:59 PM   #9361
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Shock lengths are the same and in the same holes
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:00 PM   #9362
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Any pics?

Are the front and rear pre-loads different?
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Old 04-21-2009, 10:17 PM   #9363
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Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
Brian, I am fairly sure that when they do the angled/forward facing servo setup that they have to flip the drive train so the front belt is on the battery side. When doing this it makes the front one way useless. At the C that might not be too good. Also they have said that they do the servo mod to calm the steering down and take out some of the sensitivity for modified racing.
You can actually put the diff pulley on the other side of the one way assembly and it will work with the belts flipped. I have done this with my car. Just move it to the other side of the flange.
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:56 AM   #9364
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Just wondering, how do i know when to use a oneway and when to use a spool?
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Old 04-22-2009, 05:58 AM   #9365
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the front and rear are a little different but the same is happening on the front as in the rear. The left shocks are preloaded alot more than the right. I had to do this to get the right side to 5mm ride height. I don't understand why. I rebuilt all the shocks and even swapped them and it is the same.
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Old 04-22-2009, 06:21 AM   #9366
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Originally Posted by bigdanes View Post
the front and rear are a little different but the same is happening on the front as in the rear. The left shocks are preloaded alot more than the right. I had to do this to get the right side to 5mm ride height. I don't understand why. I rebuilt all the shocks and even swapped them and it is the same.
Check your left and right weight's. Are you running Lipo, if so did you add the weight to the battery side to balance it out? Take some fishing line and string it through those two center holes on the shock tower and then lift straight up. If there is a difference you will see it.
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Old 04-22-2009, 06:43 AM   #9367
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what akerman position are you running i had this problem when i was running 1a i am now running 2 b and it is fine
Thanks John, speedster and Rob ...
Makes sense to me ... ill give it a go.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:08 AM   #9368
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While in the process of changing my front diff to a spool, I managed to strip out the nock nut. All I did was remove the thrust balls, added the spool pads, but the nut must have been crooked in the black holder. I had a brand new rebuild kit, so I used the new lock nut and thrust screw. Same thing happened again. The lock nut appears to be very low quality. The thrust screw starts to thread, but will not get enough bite to tighten all the way down, it starts slipping. Does anyone know of an alternative for these 2 parts. It would seem that minus the thrust balls, there should be plenty of length on the thrust screw so that the spring should no longer be a problem.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:41 AM   #9369
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
While in the process of changing my front diff to a spool, I managed to strip out the nock nut. All I did was remove the thrust balls, added the spool pads, but the nut must have been crooked in the black holder. I had a brand new rebuild kit, so I used the new lock nut and thrust screw. Same thing happened again. The lock nut appears to be very low quality. The thrust screw starts to thread, but will not get enough bite to tighten all the way down, it starts slipping. Does anyone know of an alternative for these 2 parts. It would seem that minus the thrust balls, there should be plenty of length on the thrust screw so that the spring should no longer be a problem.
I use the TC3 bolt and nut kit. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA07&P=7) The nut is already installed in a white plastic holder. It's MUCH better, imo, than the TC5 parts.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:52 AM   #9370
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I use the TC3 bolt and nut kit. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA07&P=7) The nut is already installed in a white plastic holder. It's MUCH better, imo, than the TC5 parts.
+1 i have had no problem with the tc3 nut and bolt
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:59 AM   #9371
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Thanks for the info. I should be able to locate the parts locally. Pretty sad that this is a flaw in the kit, and Associated has not addressed the situation, and the customer has to seek out their own solutions.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:01 AM   #9372
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I am using a lipo weight but the issue is on the bat. side of the car. I have a couple of dig. food scales I will use to measure left and right side weight. Her is a pic of what the rear shocks look like

Team Associated TC5-tc5.jpg
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:03 AM   #9373
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Originally Posted by bigdanes View Post
I am using a lipo weight but the issue is on the bat. side of the car. I have a couple of dig. food scales I will use to measure left and right side weight. Her is a pic of what the rear shocks look like

Attachment 444431
check your droop settings and make sure you have the same arm mounts side to side.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:04 AM   #9374
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Originally Posted by bigdanes View Post
the front and rear are a little different but the same is happening on the front as in the rear. The left shocks are preloaded alot more than the right. I had to do this to get the right side to 5mm ride height. I don't understand why. I rebuilt all the shocks and even swapped them and it is the same.
Check your roll centre mounts and also check that your car isnt resting on its droop screws. Its ounds like one of those 2 things to me
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:06 AM   #9375
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It appears that it may be your roll center mounts. The mounts have dots, ., .. and ... Make sure that they are the same on the left and right.
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