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Old 03-30-2009, 08:56 PM   #9166
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You can use simple green also for tire cleaner, it removes all the old rubber and makes them tacky like new.
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Old 03-31-2009, 03:10 AM   #9167
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
the screw is not long enough to connect this. When I remove the spring it will reach the nut.

I even used tried the screw from the current diff and it would not work either. It only works with the plastic halfs..

What am I'm doing wrong?
i forget the part number but go to ur lhs and ask them for a t nut for a rc10 t3 stadium truck they work much better
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:49 AM   #9168
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Hey guys, I need to order a TC body and I am wondering what ppl are using now adays. I will be racing 19t and open mod on carpet with foam and rubber.

Thanks

Josh
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Old 03-31-2009, 08:00 AM   #9169
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DNA2, Mazda 6 or speed 6 are most popular.

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Originally Posted by JoshM20 View Post
Hey guys, I need to order a TC body and I am wondering what ppl are using now adays. I will be racing 19t and open mod on carpet with foam and rubber.

Thanks

Josh
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:34 AM   #9170
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Originally Posted by JoshM20 View Post
Hey guys, I need to order a TC body and I am wondering what ppl are using now adays. I will be racing 19t and open mod on carpet with foam and rubber.

Thanks

Josh
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:52 AM   #9171
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ahh now we have a debate!

Looks like the R9 and LTC would give you more steering, more forward downforce. Is that the case?
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:04 PM   #9172
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ahh now we have a debate!

Looks like the R9 and LTC would give you more steering, more forward downforce. Is that the case?
idk about this ltc u speek of but the r9-r give u alot of front downforce almost 2 much
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:36 PM   #9173
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Default set up isues

i have a problem with my set up that hopefully someone can help with. every thing is set up fairly well the problem i am having is when exiting a tight corner say like a right hand hair pin, the right rear tire plants so hard that it will lift the left front letting the front diff unload and allowing the car to spin exiting the corner. it unloads so hard it actually blew a pre glued jaco rubberz tire off of the prizm wheel. i am powered by a 13.5 losi xcellerin system running a 75 tooth spur and a 30 tooth pinion. not to excessive i dont think.
any help would be great.
thanks in advanced
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:44 PM   #9174
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Can you post your setup and what surface you run on?
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:59 PM   #9175
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Can you post your setup and what surface you run on?
i run on soda preped assphault, blue spring front, green rear. -1.5 deg camber front -2.0 rear. 0 deg total toe front +1deg. total toe rear. no sway bars 5.5mm ride hight rear, 5.25 front. 4 deg. caster. 2mm wheel base rear 1mm front. 40 wt. oil front and rear
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:37 PM   #9176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
i forget the part number but go to ur lhs and ask them for a t nut for a rc10 t3 stadium truck they work much better
Ok, I know what you are talking about, it is a white T nut, correct?

But the screw is not reaching the T Nut....
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:49 AM   #9177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raven101 View Post
i run on soda preped assphault, blue spring front, green rear. -1.5 deg camber front -2.0 rear. 0 deg total toe front +1deg. total toe rear. no sway bars 5.5mm ride hight rear, 5.25 front. 4 deg. caster. 2mm wheel base rear 1mm front. 40 wt. oil front and rear
Now I'm probably the worst person to try to answer this one, so I look forward to any corrections made to me. Guess I'm testing my knowledge?

Anyway, the adding the sway bars should definitely help with that issue, as would lowering the front, or alternately raising the rear. I believe you are running whats known as a pro-squat, with the rear being lower. This will cause the rear to plant more on a hard takeoff, such as exiting a tight curve.

The bonus to that setup is that it will help reduce dive on corner entry. So my guess is that you are fast into and through the turns, but are having problems with exiting.

The sway bars would also help reduce body roll, which would help keep the tires planted on turns as well.

If I'm wrong, anyone and everyone please feel free to correct me, and also teach me a thing or two. Trying to learn here...
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:32 AM   #9178
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sway bars are something i forgot to mention i did have them on front and rear but someone else said try without, after taking them off it did help alittle but the front still lifts. i will try raising the rear and see what happens. i will let you know later this afternoon.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:33 AM   #9179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raven101 View Post
i run on soda preped assphault, blue spring front, green rear. -1.5 deg camber front -2.0 rear. 0 deg total toe front +1deg. total toe rear. no sway bars 5.5mm ride hight rear, 5.25 front. 4 deg. caster. 2mm wheel base rear 1mm front. 40 wt. oil front and rear
Personally I would have said that your rear spring is too soft. I almost always use blue front and silver rear springs outdoors, green springs only if the track is not prepared or very bumpy.

Other than that, I'd check your droop settings are equal left to right and that the car is properly balanced.

What roll centres are you running (ie which suspension arm blocks and which mounting hole?)

HTH
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:27 AM   #9180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raven101 View Post
i run on soda preped assphault, blue spring front, green rear. -1.5 deg camber front -2.0 rear. 0 deg total toe front +1deg. total toe rear. no sway bars 5.5mm ride hight rear, 5.25 front. 4 deg. caster. 2mm wheel base rear 1mm front. 40 wt. oil front and rear
Try adding more rear toe more like 2.5-3 deg thats what i always run, also what position are the shocks in on the tower and arms.
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