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Old 03-10-2009, 02:18 PM   #8986
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Has anyone else noticed that when full steering is used, the front wheel chatter and seem bound? Just holding the car in the air and with little throttle applied, the front wheels chatter. When I turned the end points down to the point where this didnt happen, the wheels werent turned far enough to be able to make corners. Should I just turn the EPA to full and not worry about the chatter?
take ur cvds apart and put a little bit of grease in the inside of the cvd that will fix the problem
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:33 PM   #8987
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take ur cvds apart and put a little bit of grease in the inside of the cvd that will fix the problem
where are you talking about? cause I used grease on the cvds at build so the metal to metals should be lubed...and I have the same problem at full lock ..but turning down the epa worked for fine for me.
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:37 PM   #8988
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where are you talking about? cause I used grease on the cvds at build so the metal to metals should be lubed...and I have the same problem at full lock ..but turning down the epa worked for fine for me.
do it just like u did when u built it i take mine apart every 5 or 6 races as part of maintinance i clean and lube the bearing at the same time
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:49 PM   #8989
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where are you talking about? cause I used grease on the cvds at build so the metal to metals should be lubed...and I have the same problem at full lock ..but turning down the epa worked for fine for me.
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do it just like u did when u built it i take mine apart every 5 or 6 races as part of maintinance i clean and lube the bearing at the same time
My wheels would have to barely turn for the chatter to stop...now that you mention the lube, it make sense that that could be the only thing causing this...Mr Crum is the man
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:52 PM   #8990
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do it just like u did when u built it i take mine apart every 5 or 6 races as part of maintinance i clean and lube the bearing at the same time
One thing I use for the maintenance of my CVA's is a Super Lube Product called dry lube. Comes in a spray can and it cleans quite well and breaks down old grease FAST then leaves a clean pre-lubed surface that is easier to clean next time around. I used this stuff in paintball for high/low pressure metal on metal contacts that would cycle at 20 BPS.
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:19 PM   #8991
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Thanks for the help guys, got most of those parts coming with the kit today.

Also im going to run a Novak 4.5 on lipo batteries, how often should i be doing diff checks and will my diffs be fine.

As far as i know the car has a front spool, alloy out drives rathen then the plastic drive cups.
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:42 PM   #8992
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
My wheels would have to barely turn for the chatter to stop...now that you mention the lube, it make sense that that could be the only thing causing this...Mr Crum is the man
im just tryin to help but thanks ive been running associated onroad for bout 3 years now and i was one of the first hundred or so to get a tc5 ft not r and ive drove other cars and always think my tc5 is better the car is stout other than my mistakes on the track breaking stuff i think ive replaced the belts and a couple of outdrives anytime u have a question dont b afraid to ask
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:44 PM   #8993
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Originally Posted by agressive1 View Post
Thanks for the help guys, got most of those parts coming with the kit today.

Also im going to run a Novak 4.5 on lipo batteries, how often should i be doing diff checks and will my diffs be fine.

As far as i know the car has a front spool, alloy out drives rathen then the plastic drive cups.
i run 13.5 i rebuild my diff bout every 6 races but u runnin that mod motor u might wanna doit every 3
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:45 AM   #8994
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i run 13.5 i rebuild my diff bout every 6 races but u runnin that mod motor u might wanna doit every 3
Crum,
Are you replacing the diff rings and balls or are you just checking for flat spotting and wear?
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:54 PM   #8995
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Crum,
Are you replacing the diff rings and balls or are you just checking for flat spotting and wear?
over a period of time the diff rings will get grooves in them once they get grooves u can flip them over then after that side gets grooves u have to replace them i replace the balls after both sides of the rings are shot so just watch for grooves then once u use both sides trash them and get the rebuild kit and start from scratch
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Old 03-11-2009, 04:11 PM   #8996
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I am wanting to convert my tc5f to a rubber version. Besides the itf chassis and a one way what else is used? Do I do away with the hard arms as well?
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:19 PM   #8997
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I am wanting to convert my tc5f to a rubber version. Besides the itf chassis and a one way what else is used? Do I do away with the hard arms as well?
well i run the thick chassis with rubber tires the tc5r has a slipper spool, aluminum rear diff,itf chassis,itf top deck,all soft parts other than that it the same kit
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Old 03-11-2009, 08:06 PM   #8998
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Where can i find a 64p gear chart for the TC5?
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Old 03-11-2009, 08:16 PM   #8999
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Old 03-11-2009, 08:19 PM   #9000
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i went there but it does it in 48p. Running the novak 17.5 and need to gear it to 3.5. Like to get it in 64p.
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