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Old 01-27-2009, 05:42 PM   #8656
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Originally Posted by Airflow View Post
Kamusta rin! Yup I live in Quezon City. And Im building a nitro buster thats
why Im setting it up for maximum straight line speed so I eat our neighbor's
v-One Rs.

Reading from the posts about toe-in, I have to balance my stability vs drag
drag of having 3 deg toe in. The manual says reducing toe-in reduces rear grip. The setup sheet is confusing, it says "toe-in" total.
What does that mean? 1.5deg on each side? Last night I changed the shims
to 2mm plus 1mm shims (3 deg toe in on both sides) but I can feel
some drag when I push it, without the pinion of course.
Ill just probably go back to 2mm shim on both sides for less drag
on straights but still stable.

I really dont like too much flex on the chassis thats why Im not using
the o-ring combination. Ill use softer springs instead.

I want to replace my diff nut and bolt to a longer stronger ones, can I
use some from other kits like from HB or Serpent or Tamiya?
Has anybody done this?

Cheers
i agree with the stiffer chassis and softer springs works real good as far as the diff nut use a t nut from a t3 ae offroad truck they work alot better
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:55 PM   #8657
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I believe you'll find this is, generally, incorrect. Titanium, in and of itself, is NOT stronger than steel, nor are titanium fasteners inherently stronger than steel fasteners. Something that DOES make a difference, in the case of Lunsford products anyway, is the fact that they roll their threads rather than cut them. It is the PROCESS, not the material, that gives them their "strength" advantage. Perfect example is pan car threaded axles. The Associated steel axles break comparatively easily at the first thread where the axle goes into the steering block. The Associated part has cut threads and these create natural stress risers. That first thread (basically against the "plate" created by the hex) is not truly supported by the material into which it is threaded. By contrast, the Lunsford axles I've NEVER seen one break. I've bent 'em, but I've never seen one break.

The material strength (all things equal) and weight line up in the same manner, least to greatest: aluminum, titanium and steel. Processing can alter that order, especially between titanium and steel as they are not terribly far apart, like for like, weight-wise. The difference between aluminum and titanium is far greater in both regards.



THIS is the information jsaves and I are looking for. We have been concerned that folks are confusing 3mm difference front/back with 3 degrees. Now if the mounts were some certain length apart along the hinge pin this could certainly be the case...and judging by your numbers they're not TOO far off (mounts would need to be a bit further apart to get to that magic 1 degree per mm threshold)...but it appears they're not. Is this information printed somewhere, the number of degrees per mm? We were about to embark upon a journey of measuring things up, using some trigonometry (thank goodness I'm a math teacher!!) and find out for ourselves, but if this 1.2 degrees per mm is definitively published somewhere we'd be beholden to you were you to point us to that nugget!! Save us a fair bit of work and head-scratching.



Toe is the enemy of speed. It will add stability, but it causes tire scrub, and tire scrup eats horsepower, loss of horsepower means loss of speed. Someone at Michelin once told me, and I can't remember the exact number, but if your family car is 1/8" out on toe-in it is basically dragging the tire sideways 100 feet for every mile it travels. Whatever the number was it depends greatly on the oa diameter of the tire but the idea still holds with our toy cars. It ends up being a balancing act, particularly in power-limited classes like 17.5 Stock or (worse yet) Vintage TransAm...you have to balance losing speed and acceleration to gaining the stability and handling characteristics of additional toe.
i was told this by a good friend adam bailey from schumacher usa u might b able to find him on the schumacher thread and ask him where he seen it
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:25 PM   #8658
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Nick and Rick,
Here is what I would suggest to cure the issue of a possible bent motor mount. I used a CEFX servo mount which was almost perfect to the center of the chassis, I shaved a little off to make it in the center. I also shaved the front mount so it doesn't touch the chassis.

Good Luck,
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:36 PM   #8659
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hey guys been having a blast with with my tc5r,

thinking of building a foam car and gotta question. seems many people at track vary in answer and looking for more info.

with a foam car. cutting the tires down to the rims or 56-57mm. how many runs out of it? 1 club day? 2? more? big races new set each run?

just trying to figure out if i wanna jump into this.

running 10.5 carpet.
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:03 AM   #8660
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Lack of motor support might be a problem in a severe impact. But I think the benefit might outweigh the potential for bending. Juho Levanen and many other team drivers (including me) effectively remove the front leg on the stock motor mount by removing the front motor mount screw and grinding that part of the mount so that it is about 1mm off the chassis. The mount still remains mounted to the chassis through the rear hole and to to the bulkhead.

The idea is that rear chassis flex is not equal side to side when the motor mount is mounted with both screws resulting in different handling characteristics in right and left hand corners. With the screw removed and the front part of the mount ground 1mm, you can flex the chassis side to side and see how the holes no longer line up and how the 1mm gap increases and decreases.

These changes are very small and you still have servo mounts with affect flex the same way plus all the installed radio gear and battery, but this design is a good start!
Hello Rick,

Thank for so much information but... Do you know (and have you the right to tell us) if associated will release some update on the TC5 (like centered motor or other things...)

And please, can you give us the setup you used at the last world championship.

Thank you
Sebastien.
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:12 AM   #8661
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Questions?? Noob

hey would this car be suitable for me, im upgrading from a TT01...
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:45 AM   #8662
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I didnt want to start a new thread on this question:

On Ashpalt

What is the difference between 100% rebound or 0% rebound.

Am uncertain

100% would mean hard damping -more suited for level surface?

0% for bit more bumpy surface?


then what is the difference between say 100% rebound with no:2 piston
or 100% rebound with no: 3 piston
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:26 AM   #8663
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100% rebound means the shock shaft pushes out fully when compressed.

When using a number 3 piston, the small holes mean there is more resistance against the oil and the shock will react faster to bumps/compression.
The number 2 piston has a slighty larger hole and this makes the shock react more slowly.

Running with high levels of rebound is more suited to high grip tracks such as carpet.

When running on asphalt I run 0% or anything up to 25% depending on conditions.

And yes you were right about bumpy tracks, 100% rebound will make the car bounce around rather than soaking up the bumps.
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:44 AM   #8664
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Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
Nick and Rick,
Here is what I would suggest to cure the issue of a possible bent motor mount. I used a CEFX servo mount which was almost perfect to the center of the chassis, I shaved a little off to make it in the center. I also shaved the front mount so it doesn't touch the chassis.

Good Luck,
James

Hey James, if that's a CEFX mount how come it isn't green ? :-)

See you Friday (?)
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:45 AM   #8665
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I know this question has been asked before, but I have not seen a clear answer. I am trying to print some gear charts on Gearchart.com. The TC5R comes with a 48 pitch 87 tooth spur gear. I am running on asphalt/rubber. 13.5 Novak SS. Can someone tell me a good pinion range for this. I am reading 4.0 FDR but I need a range of pinions that will accomplish this. I am also looking for a 64 pitch Spur/Pinion that would work also, the 48 pitch are not as smooth to me.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:53 AM   #8666
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I purchased a TC5R that was already built. While going thru it, I discovered that one of the shocks was leaking. I took it apart and thing the orange/rubber washer had dislodged. I later noticed that it was torn. When building the shocks, is the rubber washer supposed to seat into the bottom of the shock base and remain there? This is the first time I have built this type of shock and I am not comfortable with the thought that the rubber washer can dislodge this way. It appears that the up and down motion would eventually dislodge all of them, I cannot see what holds it in place.
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:03 AM   #8667
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I purchased a TC5R that was already built. While going thru it, I discovered that one of the shocks was leaking. I took it apart and thing the orange/rubber washer had dislodged. I later noticed that it was torn. When building the shocks, is the rubber washer supposed to seat into the bottom of the shock base and remain there? This is the first time I have built this type of shock and I am not comfortable with the thought that the rubber washer can dislodge this way. It appears that the up and down motion would eventually dislodge all of them, I cannot see what holds it in place.
There should be a clip to hold them in, you can go to http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/support.htm#1:10electric and go to the tc5 manual to see how they built them.
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:07 AM   #8668
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I know this question has been asked before, but I have not seen a clear answer. I am trying to print some gear charts on Gearchart.com. The TC5R comes with a 48 pitch 87 tooth spur gear. I am running on asphalt/rubber. 13.5 Novak SS. Can someone tell me a good pinion range for this. I am reading 4.0 FDR but I need a range of pinions that will accomplish this. I am also looking for a 64 pitch Spur/Pinion that would work also, the 48 pitch are not as smooth to me.
Generally for the Novak motor I've tended to run between 4.4 and 5.0 on big outdoor tracks (120+ ft main straight) - and obviously smaller for indoor club tracks. Running 48dp I tend to use 69-75 spur gears and pinions in the range 28-33 (33/69 gives 4.18).

BTW this is with the LRP TC speedo - obviously gear up a few teeth if using the Novak GTB speedo.
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:07 AM   #8669
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I have the manual. But it is vague. Is there a lip in the hole at the bottom of the shock base that holds to rubber washer in place?
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:18 AM   #8670
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I know this question has been asked before, but I have not seen a clear answer. I am trying to print some gear charts on Gearchart.com. The TC5R comes with a 48 pitch 87 tooth spur gear. I am running on asphalt/rubber. 13.5 Novak SS. Can someone tell me a good pinion range for this. I am reading 4.0 FDR but I need a range of pinions that will accomplish this. I am also looking for a 64 pitch Spur/Pinion that would work also, the 48 pitch are not as smooth to me.

Firstly--on rubber tire there is generally not a RANGE of pinions which, used with a given spur, creates a certain FDR...there is A pinion. Rubber tire diameter does not decrease appreciably which is why FDR becomes relevant. Foam tires, otoh, wear down and change the overall ratio (roll-out).

Secondly--if you've already found gearchart.com then the answer to your pinion is, literally, at the tips of your fingers. Open the gearchart creator, select Associated TC5 from the menu (which will auto-fill the transmission ratio field), enter your spur gear size (87), and request "middle" in the plot spur/pinion options. From there take a guess on the pinion size and click "Gear Ratio". Don't see 4.0 bracketed in the 87 column, or it is toward the top or bottom of the chart, go back to the entry page and change your pinion selection toward it. Guessing costs nothing but a couple seconds.

I could tell you the number, but this is really something you're going to have to do yourself. Teach a man to fish...

Thirdly--converting from 48p to 64p is simply a matter of applying junior high pre-algebra. What you're doing is comparing ratios. You have the 87t 48p spur, you want to find the same size 64p spur. Your ratios look like this:

REMEMBER THAT / MEANS "DIVIDED BY". In this example, t is the unknown number of teeth.

87/48 = t/64

The important thing here is that your pitch numbers have to either both be numerators (top numbers) or both be denominators (bottom numbers), likewise for the teeth number(s). The cool thing with ratios is that it doesn't matter which you choose for either (my ratio above spits out exactly the same answer if you invert the fractions and put the pitch numbers in the numerator).

To find t you will solve (87 X 64)/48.....remember to perform the operation in parentheses first...THEN divide.

This will give you the number of teeth in 64p on a spur gear that is the same diameter as the one you already have. This works because it is a strictly linear relationship. The other neat thing is that you will pretty much ALWAYS find there is a 64p equivalent to any of your 48p sizes (thought the inverse relationship doesn't seem to necessarily be true as we get down to very small 64p spur sizes). My guess is this is because the spur "blanks" are certain diameters and the teeth for either pitch are cut into those.
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