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Old 01-27-2009, 08:52 AM   #8641
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...I must confess to not being wild about not having the "leg" in the bulkhead ahead of the motor to screw down to the chassis. I can see on your mule that at one point you must have because the chassis has been drilled where the new screw would go to pick up this leg. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but my guess is the leg was eliminated to users wouldn't have to locate, drill and countersink a hole (whose location is critical to proper fit) in their chassis. All the other screws appear to be as-located by AE. I would offer that if you made a paper template from your "mule" chassis shown that identified where the screw would live that customers could hit this easily enough. OR...I'd bet you could pick up chassis plates at dealer cost somewhere, drill and countersink them, and offer them as an extra cost option for users who lack the confidence to do that drilling.

I can imagine that the top plate provides enough bridge to keep longitudinal flex under control without this leg, but I am not at all crazy about the mass of the motor being so unsupported. It is hanging clear out ahead of the screws. My concern would be that in a hard side impact the mass of the motor could pretty easily bend the bulkhead, inertia being what it is. I've seen similar thickness 1/12 bulkheads bent due to the motor mass and they're supported all the way around and fairly close to the motor.

If you guys were to go back to (and I'm certain it was there at least at some point in development) the forward leg ahead of the motor I'd be ALL over these bulkheads, as it is I have substantial concern on this point. You'd still be "losing" the rear foot from the original AE motor mount, I just think too big a bite has been taken by eliminating that front foot.

I look forward to your responses. I think you guys are just THIS close to having a great product that I wouldn't hesitate to purchase.

Thanks,

Scottrik
Lack of motor support might be a problem in a severe impact. But I think the benefit might outweigh the potential for bending. Juho Levanen and many other team drivers (including me) effectively remove the front leg on the stock motor mount by removing the front motor mount screw and grinding that part of the mount so that it is about 1mm off the chassis. The mount still remains mounted to the chassis through the rear hole and to to the bulkhead.

The idea is that rear chassis flex is not equal side to side when the motor mount is mounted with both screws resulting in different handling characteristics in right and left hand corners. With the screw removed and the front part of the mount ground 1mm, you can flex the chassis side to side and see how the holes no longer line up and how the 1mm gap increases and decreases.

These changes are very small and you still have servo mounts with affect flex the same way plus all the installed radio gear and battery, but this design is a good start!
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:04 AM   #8642
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
If you measure the thin plastic 1 deg clips that come with the kit they are .81mm. 2 deg is 1.62mm.
When did you have your caliper calibrated young grasshopper? I think your plastic is out of tollerance. There are to many variables so it probably needs to be calculated out.

However, both Xray and Corally imply that .75mm should equal 1 degree.
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:20 AM   #8643
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When did you have your caliper calibrated young grasshopper? I think your plastic is out of tollerance. There are to many variables so it probably needs to be calculated out.

However, both Xray and Corally imply that .75mm should equal 1 degree.
The National Caliper Calibration Society (NCCS) consults with me on a daily basis to ensure that their equipment is accurate.

The distance from the front hinge pin mount to the rear will affect what toe you get from each shim.
Do corally and x-ray use the same distance as the tc5?
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:39 AM   #8644
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
However, both Xray and Corally imply that .75mm should equal 1 degree.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
The distance from the front hinge pin mount to the rear will affect what toe you get from each shim.
Do corally and x-ray use the same distance as the tc5?
Assuming BOTH Kraig and Josh are correct (and Josh is definitely correct re: the difference mount spacing makes) it would imply that the TC5 has the mounts spaced further apart than the Xray and Corally.

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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
There are to many variables so it probably needs to be calculated out.
Calculating it out was what we were HOPING to avoid, but are prepared to execute absent anyone being able to point at any of AE's literature (Josh and/or Rick may have access to the designers and/or their notes?) stating what their spec is.

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The National Caliper Calibration Society (NCCS) consults with me on a daily basis to ensure that their equipment is accurate.
THAT'S the best comeback I've heard in a long while. That's what keeps me getting up every morning...the hope that I'll get a good belly laugh out of someone during the day! Thank you.
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Old 01-27-2009, 11:05 AM   #8645
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
The National Caliper Calibration Society (NCCS) consults with me on a daily basis to ensure that their equipment is accurate.

The distance from the front hinge pin mount to the rear will affect what toe you get from each shim.
Do corally and x-ray use the same distance as the tc5?
I feel like I have been spanked by a wet noodle.

I don't know if it is the same distance. What I can say though is I took a shim from Xray at 1.5mm and put it on my TC5 and the total rear toe was 2 degree's. I took a .75mm shim and put it on my TC5 and it was 1 degree. I was using a Hudy Setup Station to check my measurement's. I will do the check again on my son's car in the next day or two and report my finding's.
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Old 01-27-2009, 11:53 AM   #8646
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The comments have been sort of vague, is 3 degrees of toe in in the rear 1.5 for each wheel or 3 for each?
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:00 PM   #8647
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
I feel like I have been spanked by a wet noodle.

I don't know if it is the same distance. What I can say though is I took a shim from Xray at 1.5mm and put it on my TC5 and the total rear toe was 2 degree's. I took a .75mm shim and put it on my TC5 and it was 1 degree. I was using a Hudy Setup Station to check my measurement's. I will do the check again on my son's car in the next day or two and report my finding's.
You two do realize the difference in .81 mm and .75 mm, right? Oh wait, this is Hohnstein we're talking about...
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:14 PM   #8648
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I have a regular tc5 and just got it ready to go but when i was adjusting my end points i noticed i was getting some wheel chatter at full steer. It turns out the belt is rubbing the servo saver post, it doesn't apper to be that much. Is there any fixes for this or won't this be a problem? I should add I didn't get on the track yet with the car. Oh and I made sure the belt was on the right side of the post. so there's no confustion the motor side.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:41 PM   #8649
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I have a regular tc5 and just got it ready to go but when i was adjusting my end points i noticed i was getting some wheel chatter at full steer. It turns out the belt is rubbing the servo saver post, it doesn't apper to be that much. Is there any fixes for this or won't this be a problem? I should add I didn't get on the track yet with the car. Oh and I made sure the belt was on the right side of the post. so there's no confustion the motor side.
the chatter is not from the steering post its from the cvds put a little black grase in them and work it around the chatter will dissapear
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:09 PM   #8650
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The comments have been sort of vague, is 3 degrees of toe in in the rear 1.5 for each wheel or 3 for each?
3 deg per side
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:10 PM   #8651
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You two do realize the difference in .81 mm and .75 mm, right? Oh wait, this is Hohnstein we're talking about...
Yup, and he could tell the difference between the two. I will never be able to.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:47 PM   #8652
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
One those new bulkheads, are there any mods u need to do fit them on or can u just slap on?
The only mods needed are the top deck machining/dremeling also the chassis needs machining/dremeling.

I shall get a picture up of where the top is done when I get onto my computer.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:49 PM   #8653
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3 deg per side
Thanks...
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:39 PM   #8654
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For anybody curious or can't make it out on the current pictures, this is where the chassis/top deck are modified. (This one was machined for higher quality, dremeling was the example used for the guy I made the picture for)



Cheers Nick
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:32 PM   #8655
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hey bro I have the same shims on car I think it's fine I've run my car from novak 17.5 brushless to 7700kv mamba max with lipos I never changed my rear toe-in. I see your from Manila (kumusta) I grew up in Pateros now I'm residing here in San Diego CA. Goodluck on your car it's a really good car wins a lot of local parking lot races here in San Diego.
Kamusta rin! Yup I live in Quezon City. And Im building a nitro buster thats
why Im setting it up for maximum straight line speed so I eat our neighbor's
v-One Rs.

Reading from the posts about toe-in, I have to balance my stability vs drag
drag of having 3 deg toe in. The manual says reducing toe-in reduces rear grip. The setup sheet is confusing, it says "toe-in" total.
What does that mean? 1.5deg on each side? Last night I changed the shims
to 2mm plus 1mm shims (3 deg toe in on both sides) but I can feel
some drag when I push it, without the pinion of course.
Ill just probably go back to 2mm shim on both sides for less drag
on straights but still stable.

I really dont like too much flex on the chassis thats why Im not using
the o-ring combination. Ill use softer springs instead.

I want to replace my diff nut and bolt to a longer stronger ones, can I
use some from other kits like from HB or Serpent or Tamiya?
Has anybody done this?

Cheers
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