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Old 01-13-2009, 05:52 PM   #8431
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So let me get this right, same set up, spool, 6 degree caster and full long link are the changes?? Wow I must be a DA but what do you mean by a full long rear link???
it means inside hole on shock tower link..and outside hole on rear hub...and the same on front end..makes the link longer
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:20 PM   #8432
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I went with the Manutech plate, mine came marked at 182g , I drilled out the holes in the center of the plate to balance the car. I also used a dremel and made little sections for the battery to set down inside to help keep the battery locked in. I know you can get it from Manutech or Stormer also carries them, just look under Manutech at stormer hobbies. Hope this helps.
That weight has the rised side on top to help hold the battery in place left to right, right?
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:06 PM   #8433
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That weight has the rised side on top to help hold the battery in place left to right, right?
yep, has sides that stick up
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:39 PM   #8434
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Default Diff problem

Hey guys, We have just rebuilt our diffs and one in particular slips and loosens straight away. We do all the normal clean and lube , tighten and loosen 1/8 etc etc . Has anyone had a dodgy diff and if so what part caused it . We are running mod motors . Thanks in advance
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:23 AM   #8435
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Josh,thanks for the help,needed more than 2 packs of practice,car was getting close had a tire unglue in the main hope to race with you again soon.
No problem Steve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team STPN View Post
So let me get this right, same set up, spool, 6 degree caster and full long link are the changes?? Wow I must be a DA but what do you mean by a full long rear link???
Out on the hub and in on the tower...........it really helped it get through the turns.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:03 AM   #8436
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Could someone tell me what side of car you tight differentiel on tc5

i know its not clear ,i am a french man lolll, i rebuild my differentiel

and now what side it goes ?? it is important ??

tx Stef
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:00 AM   #8437
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http://www.ppdbillet.com/ - link to the plate I used. I don't use the side plate, that's too much weight.

http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SRC79867!SRC - battery tray

Thank!
http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SRC79867!SRC

This one seems just what I was looking for. Appears it has the pack hangin off the chassis some which is just what I was looking for. Trying to move some of the existing weight to balance it out more and I won'thave to add as much lead.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:42 AM   #8438
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Thank!
http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SRC79867!SRC

This one seems just what I was looking for. Appears it has the pack hangin off the chassis some which is just what I was looking for. Trying to move some of the existing weight to balance it out more and I won'thave to add as much lead.

The SRC batter holder is great. The one thing you have to keep in mind is it raises the batter strap quite a bit. It made it so my SMC 4000 packs need something on top to hold it on. I switched to SMC 5000 packs and they fit perfectly.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:35 AM   #8439
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The SRC batter holder is great. The one thing you have to keep in mind is it raises the batter strap quite a bit. It made it so my SMC 4000 packs need something on top to hold it on. I switched to SMC 5000 packs and they fit perfectly.

Sweet. 5k is what i'm running in it.

You can also use a long screw through the blue thumb 'bolt' and makes them easier to use, allen driver instead of your fingers. I did this on my b44 with the long rear shock/chassis screws off my t4. ..but the whole metric switch you'll prolly need the thumb bolt & screw from an Standard AE kit and fresh battery posts... the threads seem close but not the same when I tried this on the tc5 thumb bolts.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:46 AM   #8440
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what is the corally part made out of?
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:56 AM   #8441
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what is the corally part made out of?
I think its aluminum but I won't swear to it, some kind of metal. The battery strap posts connect to the tray and the tray is screwed into the chassis using the holes where the battery strap posts were. There are several mounting holes to adjust how far inboard or outboard the battery is.
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:15 PM   #8442
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Couple questions:

Do you consider this lipo holder better than the diggity designs unit?


How far do you thread your shock ends on?

Thanks

Adam
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:23 PM   #8443
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Couple questions:

Do you consider this lipo holder better than the diggity designs unit?

I have both and I can say that I like the Specialized RC tray better. It allows a few more mounting options than the Diggity one. Like someone else already mentioned you can move the battery out further to the edge of the chassis to help compensate for the reduced weight of the lipo.

One thing to note is that the Orion Platinum 4800mah packs are a little more narrow than some of the newer packs on the market. Unlike the Diggity brace you have no option on the cutout based on battery dimensions. Diggity offers a 'wide' option for the newer packs.
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:37 PM   #8444
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Rick Hohwart, any plans on some new cvds and axles that actually fit the bearings ?
Current axles have to small a dia. and therefore create slop.
Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:15 PM   #8445
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Rick Hohwart, any plans on some new cvds and axles that actually fit the bearings ?
Current axles have to small a dia. and therefore create slop.
Thanks.

And even new hubs with bigger bearings so they can take a little more load.
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