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Old 01-09-2009, 10:00 PM   #8371
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Hey Guys,
Racing this this last weekend and I broke the servo arm.
I know, do not hit stuff, but stuff happens.

How tight should you go with the servo saver?
Thanks and God Bless
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:29 PM   #8372
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If it was a plastic arm I wouldn't worry about it too much, but you could soften it up by about an 8th of a tun to a 1/4 turn. I have mine set about a 1/4 to 1/2 tighter then what the instructions say (I really don't like servo savers as they tend to rob some of the steering like with the b4/t4 set-up, but on the TC5 it works great)
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:28 AM   #8373
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I am very curious to see if the cyclone center one way pulley fits the tc5.
not very interested in the front one way.
Does AE make a center one way pulley? does anybody else?
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:14 AM   #8374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artica View Post
I am very curious to see if the cyclone center one way pulley fits the tc5.
not very interested in the front one way.
Does AE make a center one way pulley? does anybody else?
no associated doesnt but i think the xray is the closest car to the tc5
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:14 PM   #8375
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Just a quick question, Is this diff building problem on the tc5r or is on the regular tc5 also? I was thinking about getting one of these but after reading how big of a problem it is I just don't know. I always thought AE was one of the best and never had a problem with anything I purchased from.
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:42 PM   #8376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi guy View Post
Just a quick question, Is this diff building problem on the tc5r or is on the regular tc5 also? I was thinking about getting one of these but after reading how big of a problem it is I just don't know. I always thought AE was one of the best and never had a problem with anything I purchased from.


I ran into the same problem with the diff nut and ended up just using the nut and a very thin steel washer. The problem is that you have to drop both axles to get at the screw head AND the diff nut also you you have a nut driver to fit the 2-56 nut. It's a hassle but the diff went together so nice I have yet to tighten it after many runs.

I have to say that I'm disappointed in the amount of slop in the link ends and ball studs. I've never had a car with this much free play. I'm swapping out all the rod ends and balls studs to try tighten things up. (now that's the real hassle)
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:15 PM   #8377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
Hey Guys,
Racing this this last weekend and I broke the servo arm.
I know, do not hit stuff, but stuff happens.

How tight should you go with the servo saver?
Thanks and God Bless
You can also smear a dab of grease on the v shaped area of the servo saver, so it slides easier. Keep it tight, but this way it will move if you hit something.
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:21 PM   #8378
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I got mine together, one using brute force to pushing the spring while tightening...the other diff, the nut stripped. I pulled out an old B4 RTR diff and use it's tnut and bolt. I didn't measure the bolts but it seemed to be longer and threaded easliy.

NOW, I'm having problems w/ the rear hub carriers...(tc5f 31564 1 deg.) they hit the arms and don't lean in towards the chassis like they should without hitting the arms.

The stock rear belt tension setting was really, really tight... how much tension/drag should I be able to feel and should the front and rear tension be about the same? I am using all the tc5f stock setup sheet settings in the manaul for my initial build.

Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:37 PM   #8379
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oh, on the diffs, I just used the plastic out drives and since I have the F kit (w/ alumium outs) I didn't have those blue rings that go w/ the plastic outs (standard kit) but think I get them if they'll help keep the cvds in.

fyi: weights on the alum. & plastic outdrives (both sides, just the outdrives)

Plastic: 5.4 grams
Alum.: 8.5 grams
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:15 PM   #8380
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Thanks for the reply. Is this car worth my time or it going to piss me off and make me regret i wasted my money because it sounds like they didn't get right from the drawing board.
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:30 PM   #8381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
I got mine together, one using brute force to pushing the spring while tightening...the other diff, the nut stripped. I pulled out an old B4 RTR diff and use it's tnut and bolt. I didn't measure the bolts but it seemed to be longer and threaded easliy.

NOW, I'm having problems w/ the rear hub carriers...(tc5f 31564 1 deg.) they hit the arms and don't lean in towards the chassis like they should without hitting the arms.

The stock rear belt tension setting was really, really tight... how much tension/drag should I be able to feel and should the front and rear tension be about the same? I am using all the tc5f stock setup sheet settings in the manaul for my initial build.

Thanks.
Take some material off of the arm. I noticed this as well.

Do you have the new diff holders with the extra adjustment holes? If not, you can use a dremel to make more slots for adjustment. That is what everybody was doing before the new carriers came out. The belts should have some give when you press on them.
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:34 PM   #8382
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Originally Posted by losi guy View Post
Thanks for the reply. Is this car worth my time or it going to piss me off and make me regret i wasted my money because it sounds like they didn't get right from the drawing board.
The best thing to do if you want to avoid hassles is get 2 #6575 T-Nut & Diff Bolt packages. I have used the regular diff nuts and these ones too. The stock one is fine, but can be finicky. The #6575 just makes things easier.

You did not waste your money.
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:58 PM   #8383
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TC5s are running strong at the Novak Race:

Mod Foam: Hebert Q2
10.5 Rubber: Hohnstein Q2, Hebert Q3
13.5 Rubber: Hebert TQ
13.5 Foam: Stellflue Q3
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:01 PM   #8384
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robK, thanks. I feel a lot better.
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:05 PM   #8385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
I got mine together, one using brute force to pushing the spring while tightening...the other diff, the nut stripped. I pulled out an old B4 RTR diff and use it's tnut and bolt. I didn't measure the bolts but it seemed to be longer and threaded easliy.

NOW, I'm having problems w/ the rear hub carriers...(tc5f 31564 1 deg.) they hit the arms and don't lean in towards the chassis like they should without hitting the arms.

The stock rear belt tension setting was really, really tight... how much tension/drag should I be able to feel and should the front and rear tension be about the same? I am using all the tc5f stock setup sheet settings in the manaul for my initial build.

Thanks.
u just gotta play with the cams to get ur belt tension right i have ft version and i actually had to tighten my belt i had it so loose u dont need to dremel more holes in it just gota take some to get it right
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