Team Associated TC5
01-08-2009, 04:44 PM
#8357
Thanks Rob
Do you by anychance know the Part # for the "Stealth Nut" ?? it seems that i have pulled the threads out on the ones supplied
Is this the correct 1 https://www.hobbyoutlets.com/store/hobby/6575.html?js=n
Do you by anychance know the Part # for the "Stealth Nut" ?? it seems that i have pulled the threads out on the ones supplied
Is this the correct 1 https://www.hobbyoutlets.com/store/hobby/6575.html?js=n
01-09-2009, 06:46 AM
#8358
Even knowing this I broke the t holder thingie... I wasn't 100% in. I tried a stealth t nut but it was worn some and the t-tops shreaded off cause they are smaller than the tc5 one. so I can't finish my diffs til I get more parts...build on hold
I wish AE would tweak that mold so it's easier to get the nut in 100%!
01-09-2009, 07:04 AM
#8359
Even knowing this I broke the t holder thingie... I wasn't 100% in. I tried a stealth t nut but it was worn some and the t-tops shreaded off cause they are smaller than the tc5 one. so I can't finish my diffs til I get more parts...build on hold I wish AE would tweak that mold so it's easier to get the nut in 100%!
I wish AE would tweak that mold so it's easier to get the nut in 100%!
.My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intact
is this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far
01-09-2009, 07:59 AM
#8360
Luckily mine order just arrived! ..
for new t holders you have to get the plastic outdrives kit, which have to be lighter than the alumium ones w/ my kit... I'm running 13.5, not anything hotter and always ran the plasitc ones in my Tc4s cause of the lighter weight/less unsprung weight. Any one comment on the tc5 plastic outdrives durability? I'm not to concerned too much w/ wear...would rather have less unsprung weight...but don't want to break one during a race either! I see they don't use the blades like the alum ones.
thanks.
for new t holders you have to get the plastic outdrives kit, which have to be lighter than the alumium ones w/ my kit... I'm running 13.5, not anything hotter and always ran the plasitc ones in my Tc4s cause of the lighter weight/less unsprung weight. Any one comment on the tc5 plastic outdrives durability? I'm not to concerned too much w/ wear...would rather have less unsprung weight...but don't want to break one during a race either! I see they don't use the blades like the alum ones.
thanks.
01-09-2009, 09:11 AM
#8361
I know how you feel My diffs are currently on Hold due to stripping .
My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intactis this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far
.My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intact
is this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far
01-09-2009, 02:32 PM
#8364
I know how you feel My diffs are currently on Hold due to stripping .
My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intactis this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that far
.My problem wasnt with getting the nut seated it was getting the thrust bolt to grab to grab the T nut then the 2 times i did i guess i overtightened and stripped them the thrust bolts actually realeased with the threads from the nut still intact
is this normal ?? it says to fully compress spring then back off but i cant get that farThe diff spacer/washer in the kit is too thick, there's a spare in one of the bags, use that and the bolt will reach the nut just fine. I used the kit tools to help me not to overtighten (too much torque from my regular tools.)
01-09-2009, 04:14 PM
#8365
Tech Regular
Some VERY interesting mods seen on the team cars at this weekends DHI-Cup race in Europe. Most noticable is the upper camber link. Pictures at www.redrc.net click on events.
If I run out of things to change on my car tomorrow whilst testing may try some of these out.....
If I run out of things to change on my car tomorrow whilst testing may try some of these out.....
01-09-2009, 04:41 PM
#8366
I know that the diff nut holder is a PITA, but if the nut was looser in the holder it could spin inside the plastic and the diff wouldn't tighten up for that reason.
The plastice diffs should work fine for 13.5/17.5t. They just aren't quite good enough to run in full mod. Be sure to install the blue aluminum ring on the outdrive and you shouldn't have any durabilty issues.
The plastice diffs should work fine for 13.5/17.5t. They just aren't quite good enough to run in full mod. Be sure to install the blue aluminum ring on the outdrive and you shouldn't have any durabilty issues.
01-09-2009, 05:01 PM
#8367
I know that the diff nut holder is a PITA, but if the nut was looser in the holder it could spin inside the plastic and the diff wouldn't tighten up for that reason.
The plastice diffs should work fine for 13.5/17.5t. They just aren't quite good enough to run in full mod. Be sure to install the blue aluminum ring on the outdrive and you shouldn't have any durabilty issues.
The plastice diffs should work fine for 13.5/17.5t. They just aren't quite good enough to run in full mod. Be sure to install the blue aluminum ring on the outdrive and you shouldn't have any durabilty issues.