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Old 12-23-2008, 12:39 PM   #8176
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hi Guys,

I Know I am a little late but I just want to post the setup i used in Cleveland at the US indoor champs to TQ and win 13.5. I basicaly used the same Setup in modified very minor changes.

Front :

ride height : 4.2
camber : 2 deg
6 deg caster,
+- 1/2 toe out
no hex spacing
Hex spacing 2mm on both front and rear mount
numer 3 arm mount front rear
wheelbase 1 mm
Steering 2B
3mm under ball stud
25 pound spring ( copper )
number 1 piston with 50 oil
outside on arm
number 3 on tower (shock location)
Camber link 3
diff height mid low
Black front roll bar

Rear :
ride height 4.4
3 deg camber
toe 1 degree hub
1/2mm hex spacing
2mm wheelbase
Diff height full low
Shock:
60 oil,
losi 54 pistons
outside on arm
Blue spring
number 2 arm mount front and rear
1mm on front arm mount, 2.5mm on rear arm mount.
#2 on tower for shock location
camber link 5B with 3mm under ball stud

R9F body.

Let me know if you hve any question !!

Keven


Hi Keven,
Congats on your efforts at Cleveland.

I have a question. I see you are now using #1 AE pistons on the front shocks and #54 Losi pistons on the rear. Why have you gone to pistons with such big holes?
Where do the #54 pistons rate compared to the AE pistons?
And also you use 60Wt oil in the rear and 50Wt in the front, why is the back got heavier oil than the front.
And lastly what were the changes for your mod setup?

Thanks
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:40 PM   #8177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hi Guys,

I Know I am a little late but I just want to post the setup i used in Cleveland at the US indoor champs to TQ and win 13.5. I basicaly used the same Setup in modified very minor changes.

Front :

ride height : 4.2
camber : 2 deg
6 deg caster,
+- 1/2 toe out
no hex spacing
Hex spacing 2mm on both front and rear mount
numer 3 arm mount front rear
wheelbase 1 mm
Steering 2B
3mm under ball stud
25 pound spring ( copper )
number 1 piston with 50 oil
outside on arm
number 3 on tower (shock location)
Camber link 3
diff height mid low
Black front roll bar

Rear :
ride height 4.4
3 deg camber
toe 1 degree hub
1/2mm hex spacing
2mm wheelbase
Diff height full low
Shock:
60 oil,
losi 54 pistons
outside on arm
Blue spring
number 2 arm mount front and rear
1mm on front arm mount, 2.5mm on rear arm mount.
#2 on tower for shock location
camber link 5B with 3mm under ball stud

R9F body.

Let me know if you hve any question !!

Keven
What tires were you running, and with how much dope? Also how did the car drive, was it twichy, did it cut though the turns, or was it easy to drive?
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:23 PM   #8178
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Originally Posted by AssocRacer View Post
Thanks. I'm actually not very happy with the steering in my car right now with the DNA-2 body. I'm gonna try the R9 and see if that helps out as well.
You shouldn't have steering issues with the R9-R unless your setup is way off. I've never tried a DNA but I heard it was too "stuck" on the TC5 but like I said I've never ran one. Try a Mazda Speed 6 it has lots of steering compared to the standard Mazda6.
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:25 PM   #8179
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Fatbear - Thank you !! the reason why I ran such big pistons is I think when you run a very big hole piston with heavier oil, it carries more corner speed. Also, the reason why the front oil is thinner is because it is outside on the front A arm and its only 2 hole piston instead of 3. The #1 piston would be close to a 54 tho.

For mod, I ran 4 mm instead of 3 on the rear ball stud, I ran a silver ball stud front, and I ran different tires.

Carbon madness- I ran Parma Coral tires in 13.5 and sauced about 1/3 to half of the front tires. For clubracing and when the bite is lower, I would run Magenta which are just a bit stiffer. When you run a softer tires, it makes the car easier to drive and not as twitchy but on low bite magenta are better.

The car was very easy to drive and it finishes the corner very good !

Hope you guys can try it out soon and give feedback.


2 weeks after Cleveland I went to Fastcats for the Holliday challenge and I made a few changes to that setup !!! I went inside on front arm and ran 80 oil instead of 50 and leaned the shock 1 hole so it is something you guys can try but it make the car steer a little more and might be too much.

Keven
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:09 PM   #8180
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Fatbear - Thank you !! the reason why I ran such big pistons is I think when you run a very big hole piston with heavier oil, it carries more corner speed. Also, the reason why the front oil is thinner is because it is outside on the front A arm and its only 2 hole piston instead of 3. The #1 piston would be close to a 54 tho.

For mod, I ran 4 mm instead of 3 on the rear ball stud, I ran a silver ball stud front, and I ran different tires.

Carbon madness- I ran Parma Coral tires in 13.5 and sauced about 1/3 to half of the front tires. For clubracing and when the bite is lower, I would run Magenta which are just a bit stiffer. When you run a softer tires, it makes the car easier to drive and not as twitchy but on low bite magenta are better.

The car was very easy to drive and it finishes the corner very good !

Hope you guys can try it out soon and give feedback.


2 weeks after Cleveland I went to Fastcats for the Holliday challenge and I made a few changes to that setup !!! I went inside on front arm and ran 80 oil instead of 50 and leaned the shock 1 hole so it is something you guys can try but it make the car steer a little more and might be too much.

Keven

Keven, were the arm mounts in the A or B position?
And also what were your droop settings?

Thanks
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:47 PM   #8181
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Originally Posted by Takt View Post
I'm running the latest Josh H setup ...

On Saturday, I was running a track with a high speed sweeper to the left and the car wanted to spin out during the sweeper and then the significant hairpin at the end of sweeper.

On Sunday, I was at a different track with a high speed sweeper to the right and a 180 hairpin at the end ... and the car wanted to spin out at the sweeper and did on the hairpin.

Any suggestions on what is goofy with my car? Going to rebuild my diff this week ... but anything else to look at?

Thanks
Try increasing the rear toe about .5 to 1 deg per side. A lot of time guys run less rear toe thinking it will increase speed but all it really does is make the car handle funny. Sometimes 3 deg of toe per side is perfectly normal.

You can also try standing up the rear shocks one hole on the rear tower.
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:49 PM   #8182
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Try increasing the rear toe about .5 to 1 deg per side. A lot of time guys run less rear toe thinking it will increase speed but all it really does is make the car handle funny. Sometimes 3 deg of toe per side is perfectly normal.

You can also try standing up the rear shocks one hole on the rear tower.
i heard as much as 3.5 per side i run 3.25 and use aluminum shims and get longer screws if u go more than 2 degrees gota get them longer screw
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:20 PM   #8183
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What is the difference between a TC5 and and TC5F? My LHS has a TC5 and was told there is minimal difference. I plan on running on carpet but may run parking lot this spring. Is it worth it to pay a bit more on the TC5F?
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:58 PM   #8184
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I am pretty sure the plastic pieces on the original TC5s are the same as the TC5F. They have the same upper and lower chassis.

The TC5F will come with aluminum outdrives for the diffs and a slipper spool for up front.

You can pull up the manual at RC10.com and do a quick comparison of the parts list between the two.

In my opinion I would not buy the TC5F if you already have the TC5.
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:01 PM   #8185
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the tc5f comes with all the hard parts
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:34 PM   #8186
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Originally Posted by EastCoasterVa View Post
What is the difference between a TC5 and and TC5F? My LHS has a TC5 and was told there is minimal difference. I plan on running on carpet but may run parking lot this spring. Is it worth it to pay a bit more on the TC5F?
the ft tc5 comes with plastic diffs and has all soft parts so to answer ur question yes it is worth it price the extras and i will come out to b more after u buy upgraded diff for the ft tc5 vs tc5r or f
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:27 PM   #8187
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the ft tc5 comes with plastic diffs and has all soft parts so to answer ur question yes it is worth it price the extras and i will come out to b more after u buy upgraded diff for the ft tc5 vs tc5r or f
Thanks,

That is what I was looking for. I will have the LHS order the TC5F for me. What type of LiPo should I get. I have a Novak GTB 17.5.
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:34 PM   #8188
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Thanks,

That is what I was looking for. I will have the LHS order the TC5F for me. What type of LiPo should I get. I have a Novak GTB 17.5.
i run core 5000mah u can get them from schumacher usa good pack or the reedy 5000mah
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:37 PM   #8189
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Thanks,

That is what I was looking for. I will have the LHS order the TC5F for me. What type of LiPo should I get. I have a Novak GTB 17.5.
SMC - the 28C batteries are the best on the market. Danny did just come out with 40+C batteries but I don't know anyone who has tried them.
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:38 AM   #8190
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Originally Posted by fatbear View Post
Keven, were the arm mounts in the A or B position?
And also what were your droop settings?

Thanks
from the e-mail kevin sent me he is using the a mounts..that setup is a change of what he ran at iic..so if something is missing..combine the two setups...with the latter being the most updated...i havent ran the new inboard shock positions in the front..but it is very easy to drive...you wont be dissapointed...thx again kevin...see you guys at snowbirds...
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