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Old 12-15-2008, 08:33 PM   #8071
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Default Low Friction

Can someone please tell where or which car company I can get Low Friction belts for my TC5. In some of the pics on this forum I see that there is a different front belt.. Please let me know what belt it is

Thanks
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:15 PM   #8072
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If im not mistaken, you are seeing the Bomber belt for the Yokomo BD.

RC mart is the only place I have found them.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mr4...th=595_746_908
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:00 PM   #8073
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1 way
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear

front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
1mm spacer on front and rear hexes(sorry I forgot this before)


I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
*****EDIT:Now using 2* caster block, with 3b/2b front hing pin placement for 3* of caster. sliver front spring instead of the green. Camber link middle out on front tower. 2* camber front.

Rear camber link outside up on tower, outside on hub. Black rear bar, with some extra tension. Rear shock second hole in.

Turns in a bit harder now, less chance of traction rolling. Only dope 1/2 of front with well broken in tires. More with newer tires.
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Last edited by robk; 01-04-2009 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:11 PM   #8074
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Default Low Friction

Thanks you, is there any for the rear belt that works...


Thanks again
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:35 PM   #8075
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I am always hearing of bearings failing or wearing out and not preforming properly. My question is what is best way to check and see if your bearings have indeed failed? when the wheel starts wobbling? when you encounter binding of some sort? In these instances, will the bearing appear to be damaged or mishapen at all? Just trying to figure out what to look for after a hit on the boards or something..
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:42 PM   #8076
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You can usually tell when all the bearings roll out of the hub onto the floor.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:42 PM   #8077
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I disconnect the camber link and spin the wheel with the CVD disengaged from the diff. It should spin smoothly and freely. The bearings are usually covered in enough foam or dirt that a visual check isn't very helpful.
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:31 PM   #8078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillySnarf View Post
I am always hearing of bearings failing or wearing out and not preforming properly.
That's because of the smaller size bearing Associated chose to use. They are larger ID, 6mm compared to 5mm, and narrower, 3mm vs 4mm. The 6x10x3mm bearings internal balls are smaller than the normal 5x10x4mm bearing. Simply put, they will not be as durable and not sustain their smoothness after a serious impact, or repeated small impacts. If you run on a track that had hard wooden boards, I would expect quicker wear and damage too.

There are several ways to check if a bearing is bad, but Andrew's suggestion is a good quick way to find a problem bearing, and if they feel bad, remove the bearings for a closer inspection.
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:46 PM   #8079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyS View Post
The washers that the instructions say to use with the diffs are too thick, there are some thin ones in one of the other open bags, use those and you won't have any problems putting the diffs together.
I'm going to assume you mean the thrust bearing washers. I am looking for something that will fit but my kit doesnt seem to have any that will work. I'll dig into my other parts and see if i find something.
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:17 PM   #8080
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Thanks Rob,
I think my problem is I'm trying to use set-ups and solutions from my TC3 days and they just don't work on the new generation cars.I notice you're running very lite oil, soft springs and the front shocks laid down.I would think this would cause the front of the car to wallow. I also see that you're using a sway bar on the front. I always used sway bars to stiffen the side to side motion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
1 way
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear

front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners


I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:36 PM   #8081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
1 way
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear

front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners


I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
is this setup 4 rubber tire on asphalt or is it carpet
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:01 PM   #8082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlandr91 View Post
Thanks Rob,
I think my problem is I'm trying to use set-ups and solutions from my TC3 days and they just don't work on the new generation cars.I notice you're running very lite oil, soft springs and the front shocks laid down.I would think this would cause the front of the car to wallow. I also see that you're using a sway bar on the front. I always used sway bars to stiffen the side to side motion.
The trans am tires have a lot to do with this. I went to the Madison WI race for the Hurricane series, and because of all the weirdo carpet fuzz problems, you could not get the tires hot without problems. They would fuzz over and lose traction. Not only did going soft solve the fuzz problem, but the car was faster.

You may have noticed a sometimes the front tires wear faster than the rears. That means your car is pushing and is slow. This was happening all the time with my cars until I went soft on the front end. The swaybar is to help flatten the car in sweepers while letting it still dump onto the nose in slower corners.

The other thing that helps is the higher roll centers. The older cars often had lower roll centers (look at the street weapon) and you had to really spring them hard. Now we can control this to our advantage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
is this setup 4 rubber tire on asphalt or is it carpet
Carpet. I usually run similar setups, but narrow the car up for asphalt.
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:27 AM   #8083
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hi guys

can any one recomend a good set up for my tc5 on rubber on smooth asphelt running 17.5 brushless motor and also what my rollout should be, track has a decent straight with a twisty infield average lap is about 18 seconds.

thanks
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Old 12-17-2008, 01:01 AM   #8084
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Hi, Im getting TC5R this week and will be setting it up for high speed runs
on cemented street surface. Just want to know the things I need to increase
its durability.

Found in this thread that I have to use longer screws on the suspension
arm holders... so what is the part number for the long screw?


Thanks
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:10 AM   #8085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runinonempty View Post
hi guys

can any one recomend a good set up for my tc5 on rubber on smooth asphelt running 17.5 brushless motor and also what my rollout should be, track has a decent straight with a twisty infield average lap is about 18 seconds.

thanks
u dont need to worry bout roll out on rubber with 17.5 u need 2 start with ur final drive at 3.5 to start maybe higher but its a good place to start
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