R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-10-2008, 09:31 PM   #7831
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 449
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AssocRacer View Post
You've gotta force those in. It's a tight fit cause that's what holds the guts of the shock in place.
Use the included black shock tool too force that piece in, It's a pain to push in and and even bigger pain to remove. This is an area where ae should have clarified in the manual but they did not.
itchynads is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 12:00 AM   #7832
Tech Adept
 
ntc3racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: springfield,mass
Posts: 103
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveoboy01 View Post
As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.

Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.

The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.

I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
I have the same lipo,what i do is unscrew the battery strap post a little bit turn them until you clear the slots on the chassis and strap the battery in with battery tape,screw the battery strap post in and put the stock strap on!!!
__________________
*TEAM ASSOCIATED*RCMADNESS*NOVAK*NTC3*RC18T*XRAY T2 008*KO PROPO*DIGGITY DESIGNS*TRINITY*SMC*
ntc3racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 03:23 AM   #7833
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default battery

Heres what I did so I could run lipos and standard battery strap.

The battery strap holes need to be tapered so the nut fits flush .
The screws in the post -undo so its slightly above the battery strap and the nut fits well.
The battery plate has a strip of lead length of the battery glued in place slight off centre so the battery fits correctly and plugs line up ok through the top deck.
The battery will never slide out this way!

Last edited by yeahyeah; 11-11-2008 at 04:03 AM.
yeahyeah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 07:02 AM   #7834
Tech Addict
 
tenpins77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: in a house
Posts: 692
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tenpins77
Default gearing

Hey, im sure it was somewhere in the 262 posts that this topic has, but thats really alot to go through. Just wondering what some of you are running gearing wise, whats the internal gear ratio of the TC5r? Also what seems to be the best way to gear it for a 13.5 and a 17.5?


thanks for the help,


Tenpins77
tenpins77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 08:03 AM   #7835
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,748
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tenpins77 View Post
Hey, im sure it was somewhere in the 262 posts that this topic has, but thats really alot to go through. Just wondering what some of you are running gearing wise, whats the internal gear ratio of the TC5r? Also what seems to be the best way to gear it for a 13.5 and a 17.5?


thanks for the help,


Tenpins77
The internal for the tc5 is 2.0
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.

With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.

Josh Hohnstein
Josh Hohnstein is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 08:30 AM   #7836
Tech Fanatic
 
TimNJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 947
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

If anyone is looking for an ITF chassis and topdeck, I have 'em available in the "for sale" section: N.I.P. TC5 ITF Chassis & Top Deck
__________________
Trinity - Caster Racing USA - Panther Racing

Race Videos: http://www.youtube.com/TrackMasterTim
TimNJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 01:17 PM   #7837
Tech Addict
 
speedsterblade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: TN
Posts: 690
Default

I've read page 1 to 160ish and the most recent pages, did a search.. and somewhere between post 160 something and now I've found alittle info but trying to determine the exact diffrences in the org, f & r kits...

30103 TC5 original
30104 TC5F
30105 TC5R

I'm guessin the org kit is the F kit and the R kit has the itf top plate, spool? Are there more diffences? any part updates (incase I find a deal on an org kit)? I'm running on foams/carpet but want to know everthing different. AE site isn't much help...they usually have a compare link on there models.

Thanks guys.
speedsterblade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 01:38 PM   #7838
Tech Elite
 
AssocRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Greenfield, WI
Posts: 2,292
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to AssocRacer Send a message via Yahoo to AssocRacer
Default

the TC5R has both upper and lower ITF chassis, spool, and hard plastic parts i believe. One of the AE guys could chime in too if i'm wrong.
__________________
Associated B44.3/Viper/RevTech
Associated B5M/Hobbywing/Orion
S & N's Trackside
AssocRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 01:50 PM   #7839
Tech Elite
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
I've read page 1 to 160ish and the most recent pages, did a search.. and somewhere between post 160 something and now I've found alittle info but trying to determine the exact diffrences in the org, f & r kits...

30103 TC5 original
30104 TC5F
30105 TC5R

I'm guessin the org kit is the F kit and the R kit has the itf top plate, spool? Are there more diffences? any part updates (incase I find a deal on an org kit)? I'm running on foams/carpet but want to know everthing different. AE site isn't much help...they usually have a compare link on there models.

Thanks guys.
30103 kit is the orignal kit

30104 is the F kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, the thick top deck and chassis, and two diffs (I think it comes with the hard plastics).

30105 is the R kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, and the ITF top deck and chassis, and one diff and one slipper spool (comes with the regular plastics).

If you are gonna run foam buy the TC5F...you could but the 30103, but you should probably upgrade to the aluminum out-drives at the least.
__________________
Xray | Hudy | Sanwa | R1 Wurks | Avid | Protoform | Proline | 2mm Designs
artwork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 02:20 PM   #7840
Tech Addict
 
speedsterblade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: TN
Posts: 690
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
30103 kit is the orignal kit

30104 is the F kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, the thick top deck and chassis, and two diffs (I think it comes with the hard plastics).

30105 is the R kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, and the ITF top deck and chassis, and one diff and one slipper spool (comes with the regular plastics).

If you are gonna run foam buy the TC5F...you could but the 30103, but you should probably upgrade to the aluminum out-drives at the least.
Yep, I'll go w/ the F for the newer goodies..was also wondering the cost differences but alum & parts explain it!

Thanks!!!!
speedsterblade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 02:51 PM   #7841
Tech Fanatic
 
Takt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I bought a one-way brand new. I ran it for practice and 1 heat, and don't remember hitting anything real hard, and it was very twitchy, so I took it out.

I put it back in, and now only one side is spinning freely ... the other has noticable drag.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Did I mess it up? How do you clean the bearings inside?

Thanks in advance....
Takt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 03:23 PM   #7842
Tech Addict
 
NeverATiteLine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Gallitzin, PA
Posts: 580
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to NeverATiteLine Send a message via Yahoo to NeverATiteLine
Default

Hey, I am trying to figure out everything and things are going pretty well, I tried a spool and hated it, so I put the diff back in and liked that much better...I would like to try a one way but now i hear talk of the slipper spool. Are a 1 way and a slipper spool the same thing? If not whats the difference?
__________________
MBX6-ECO
The 4 most famous words in motor sports: SECURITY TO THE PITS!!!
NeverATiteLine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 03:29 PM   #7843
Tech Regular
 
BobbyS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Washington
Posts: 251
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

A one-way (bearing) lets either wheel spin independently of the other, so the outside wheel can accelerate faster than the inside one in a turn, it only allows the wheels to turn forward. A slipper spool acts like a very very tight diff, but has some give (wheels can be turned in opposition to each other) unlike a locked spool.
__________________
"After the third flip, I lost control............"
BobbyS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 08:17 PM   #7844
Tech Addict
 
tenpins77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: in a house
Posts: 692
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tenpins77
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh H View Post
The internal for the tc5 is 2.0
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.

With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.

Josh Hohnstein
Hey thanks, the one track will be a carpet track the other an asphalt. Both Tight and Technical.



tenpins77
tenpins77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2008, 02:58 PM   #7845
Tech Master
 
gixxerman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,486
Default

I am having trouble burning up rear diff's and am in need of some suggestions on a possible fix. I have the original TC-5 and was having problems melting the rear plastic diff. Yes it would actually melt the diff rung to the outdrive. I switched to aluminum on both front and rear and am still having probs with only the rear diff! I do not beleive it's a tightening issue and the bearings are fine. This is the second season I have run the car and I honestly thought the alum diff would solve the problem. Again I am having no issues with the front diff at all. If it helps we run 13.5 LiPo on Jaco Greens.
gixxerman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Losi XXXS G+ with parts!! Team Orion V2 Hitec 5625 cola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-18-2008 08:11 PM
BATTERIES - Team Orion 4200 SHO Team Cells (6 cell) packs................... For Sale 2-Bad Australia For Sale/Trade 0 03-21-2008 02:16 AM
New Items for Sale Tamiya F103gt Chassis Kit, Team Much More CTX-D, Novak, Team Orion Tsquare R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 04-17-2007 08:29 PM
>>> BRAND STINKING NEW NEVER RAN TEAM JAMMIN FACTORY TEAM FTE RACING BUGGY <<<< mach51 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 01-25-2007 09:13 PM
F/S Team Associated Factory Team RC18T with Mamba Comp X Brushless and Extras ZeroCool101 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 01-07-2006 01:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:55 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0