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Old 11-10-2008, 07:52 AM   #7816
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Originally Posted by John Schoenauer View Post
What is the handling difference when changing shock rebound from say 25% rebound to 100% rebound?
Thanks John Schoenauer
wondering myself. Also I've heard some fast guys use negitive rebound...meaning if you pulled out the shaft it would suck back in. Can anyone elaborate? Thanks.
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:37 AM   #7817
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It seemed to have a little more slow speed steering than my stratus ap. But other then that, it felt the same. Neutral and stuck.

DK
ive tried the DNA1-good looking body but the mazda 6 is easier to drive with rubber (for me).
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:31 AM   #7818
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Default Aluminum spool issues.

I'm running a aluminum spool in the front and keep breaking the dog bone blades or pin cushions. Any one else have this problem and whats the fix?? This is without any contact with walls, so I don't think its impact related.
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:13 AM   #7819
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another racer keeps doing that also running a 10.5 motor like me and so far-i have not broke one yet

the only thing i noticed was that his outdrives were a little damaged from running the car without the blades--are your outdrives damaged?
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:15 AM   #7820
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has anybody else experienced a slop between the steering post and the bearing that holds it vertically? the slop seems a bit excessive imo. any advice?
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:17 PM   #7821
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As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.

Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.

The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.

I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:22 PM   #7822
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The 2 options that come to mind are :straping tape instead of the stock hold down........or shoegoo your battery hold down strap to the top of your battery.



Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveoboy01 View Post
As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.

Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.

The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.

I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:23 PM   #7823
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Originally Posted by poochy View Post
another racer keeps doing that also running a 10.5 motor like me and so far-i have not broke one yet

the only thing i noticed was that his outdrives were a little damaged from running the car without the blades--are your outdrives damaged?
New spool, so no damage of any sort. Is there a batch of pin cushions that are more brittle than others, the ones I have are a very shiney black plastic, not a dull black.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:24 PM   #7824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
ive tried the DNA1-good looking body but the mazda 6 is easier to drive with rubber (for me).
Thats because the DNA1 is a foam tire body, and the 6 is designed for rubbers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I'm running a aluminum spool in the front and keep breaking the dog bone blades or pin cushions. Any one else have this problem and whats the fix?? This is without any contact with walls, so I don't think its impact related.
Most likely, you are hitting something, mine only break when I hit stuff (it doesnt take much to break them) Other than that, check if your cvds are binding


Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveoboy01 View Post
As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.

Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.

The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.

I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
Tape. There are also many lipo mounting plates available
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:24 PM   #7825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I'm running a aluminum spool in the front and keep breaking the dog bone blades or pin cushions. Any one else have this problem and whats the fix?? This is without any contact with walls, so I don't think its impact related.
Hi

I've had the same problem, and got some tips from Rick Howart and Joel Myrberg....

Basically, its best if you can run the 'slipper spool' rather than the solid axle, which then allows a bit of give and protects the blades better.

Alternatively I have found the following - the blades are much less prone to breaking if you don't have any spacers on your lower wishbone mounts, ie run them bolted straight to the bulkhead with no 1/1.5/2 degree spacers.

Something I have tried this week which also seems to work well is using the blades from the Xray 008 (I know, its terrible) - if I'm honest I ended up doing this only as I broke one, had no spares, and the shop only had these.

Hope that helps

Oli
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:34 PM   #7826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Hi

I've had the same problem, and got some tips from Rick Howart and Joel Myrberg....

Basically, its best if you can run the 'slipper spool' rather than the solid axle, which then allows a bit of give and protects the blades better.

Alternatively I have found the following - the blades are much less prone to breaking if you don't have any spacers on your lower wishbone mounts, ie run them bolted straight to the bulkhead with no 1/1.5/2 degree spacers.

Something I have tried this week which also seems to work well is using the blades from the Xray 008 (I know, its terrible) - if I'm honest I ended up doing this only as I broke one, had no spares, and the shop only had these.

Hope that helps

Oli
Thanks, I noticed that the Xray ones seem to be a more pliable plastic, i'll try them first before going to the slipper setup.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:36 PM   #7827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveoboy01 View Post
As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.

Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.

The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.

I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
wrap tape around the battery and battery strap as one unit-this wont let you down-no more worries
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Old 11-10-2008, 07:44 PM   #7828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveoboy01 View Post
As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.

Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.

The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.

I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.

This is what I am using with my LiPo battery - http://www.manutech.info/rcracinghom...gproducts.html - I need to add extra weight and the battery dosent move. Look for the "TC5 LiPo weight"
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:15 PM   #7829
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ok, i feel really retarded for even asking this question.

building tc5r, now and car went together great except i saved the shocks for last.

the black seal or whatever that goes into the body is binding. am i supposed to force it, trim the four corners? never had a shock that didnt go smooth.

thanks for any help
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:20 PM   #7830
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You've gotta force those in. It's a tight fit cause that's what holds the guts of the shock in place.
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