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Old 10-28-2008, 11:11 AM   #7711
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I have found that using the the white plastic insert and diff nut from the TC3 diff rebuild kit makes assembling the diffs simple!!! the nut already comes inserted into the plastic!.. piece of cake to get together.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:38 PM   #7712
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I have found that using the the white plastic insert and diff nut from the TC3 diff rebuild kit makes assembling the diffs simple!!! the nut already comes inserted into the plastic!.. piece of cake to get together.
Yep these work great I have 3 in my parts box plus 2 diffs already built with the white t-nut.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:46 PM   #7713
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I tried this Weekend Joel s Setup at the 2 BaWü Cup...:-)
I dit some minore changes on the Steering ...with New Sorrex 28R for 4 runs just perfekt .
with more run s the back starting to by loose.
The only problem is still the Diff...good for 1 run ...it was High grip Carpet..Normali the Diffs will last for 1-3 runns on Lower Grip Carpet

http://www.ps93.ch/setup/asso-tc5_rc..._weisskopf.pdf
Mr. Che can you explain what you mean by F+R bulkhead cut? And what new steering position is C? Is there a new steering knuckle?

Thanks
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:50 PM   #7714
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IMO I think that AE put the wrong washer in the diff bag in these kits, if you use the thin washer from the unused parts you'll find that the diff goes together just fine. The other options are all good, but there's no need to wait or to buy additional parts to assemble them.
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:05 PM   #7715
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How often are you guys having to rebuild your diffs? I had to rebuild mine twice in one night. It's not melting but it just gets really notchy after about 2 runs. Any advice?
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:44 PM   #7716
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How often are you guys having to rebuild your diffs? I had to rebuild mine twice in one night. It's not melting but it just gets really notchy after about 2 runs. Any advice?
Every couple months. Are you using plastic or aluminum outdrives?
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:44 PM   #7717
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How often are you guys having to rebuild your diffs? I had to rebuild mine twice in one night. It's not melting but it just gets really notchy after about 2 runs. Any advice?
I think you might be setting your diff too loose at build time, once a ball diff starts to slip, its a quick death from there...

After I build a diff I run the car for 2 minutes without pulling full throttle...then check how tight it is and adjust...if set correctly your diff will last for many race days even with mod motors...
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:48 PM   #7718
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How often are you guys having to rebuild your diffs? I had to rebuild mine twice in one night. It's not melting but it just gets really notchy after about 2 runs. Any advice?
Mine gets notchy when its too tight. kinda hard to set it. A little lose and its fine but I like to run a little tighter diff so after tighten it up I have to check the next round to see if it gets notchy. Wish we had a light weight spider diff with oil. Easyer to tune and last longer.

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Old 10-28-2008, 04:53 PM   #7719
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spider diffs cannot phyiscally react as quickly as a ball diff can. They can take more abuse but are much slower acting and can't handle the higher rpms that the smaller 1/10th scale cars do. Also, ball diffs are MUCH easier to tune....build em, adjust em, then loosen or tighten them to your liking....spider diffs.... build em, put fluid in em, take em apart, replace fluid to tune....too much work, too messy.
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:16 PM   #7720
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How often are you guys having to rebuild your diffs? I had to rebuild mine twice in one night. It's not melting but it just gets really notchy after about 2 runs. Any advice?
When that starts happening to me, its usually from not cleaning out the pulley slots where the diff balls set well enough. A small brush with some motor spray or degreaser, followed by compressed air with clean motor spray should take care of it. There tends to be left over remnants of fine particles that get caught in there, and its tough to see them.
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:22 PM   #7721
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double post
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:34 PM   #7722
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Originally Posted by Maybell View Post
I think you might be setting your diff too loose at build time, once a ball diff starts to slip, its a quick death from there...

After I build a diff I run the car for 2 minutes without pulling full throttle...then check how tight it is and adjust...if set correctly your diff will last for many race days even with mod motors...
Ok I set the diff like the book says. How do you set your diff?
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:35 PM   #7723
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
When that starts happening to me, its usually from not cleaning out the pulley slots where the diff balls set well enough. A small brush with some motor spray or degreaser, followed by compressed air with clean motor spray should take care of it. There tends to be left over remnants of fine particles that get caught in there, and its tough to see them.
Will watch out for this. Thanks
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:24 PM   #7724
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The ITF main chassis thickness is 2.5mm? What is the regular carpet chassis thickness? 3?
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:26 PM   #7725
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The ITF main chassis thickness is 2.5mm? What is the regular carpet chassis thickness? 3?
IFT is 2mm, regular is 2.5mm
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