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Old 10-15-2008, 06:52 PM   #7591
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on all the setup sheets i see no one is using the orings on the top deck in rubber carpet racing. is that a general rule not to use them?
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:26 PM   #7592
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on all the setup sheets i see no one is using the orings on the top deck in rubber carpet racing. is that a general rule not to use them?
O-rings on the top deck is a asphalt track for added flex. Carpet has to have NO flex for higher traction and more bite tracks. With hard a-arms and thicker chassis.

O-rings are used for flex on bumpy asphalt tracks and for parking lots where there's lots of bumps and low traction. More flex soaks up the bump.
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:51 PM   #7593
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hey guys i just got all my brushless stuff for my tc5 but when i put the new spur no matter what i do i can hear it binding when i turn the spur. its kinda more like a click. I even took the screws out wile installed and it still clicks.

any suggestions? the spur is a 65 tooth btw
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:49 PM   #7594
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Originally Posted by TeckLancer View Post
hey guys i just got all my brushless stuff for my tc5 but when i put the new spur no matter what i do i can hear it binding when i turn the spur. its kinda more like a click. I even took the screws out wile installed and it still clicks.

any suggestions? the spur is a 65 tooth btw
Take a look at how long of a screw you put into the motor mount that screws into the upper bulkhead. Possible rub the spur gear there...loosen and try again.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:35 AM   #7595
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You might have also used a 6mm screw for the spur when you only need a 5mm. That can cause some chaos as well.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:49 AM   #7596
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the spur is a 65 tooth btw

65tooth spur?...48pitch?? What size pinion?

Dude this is tall gearing for brushless. Might wanna get a bigger spur gear. It will save your system from over heating and your cells from getting hot
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Last edited by Hyde; 10-16-2008 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 10-16-2008, 12:34 PM   #7597
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on all the setup sheets i see no one is using the orings on the top deck in rubber carpet racing. is that a general rule not to use them?
Hey Eddie

I use them on carpet but as the grip comes up i remove them to stiffen things up a little ....
Experiment a bit and see how you go.
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Old 10-16-2008, 05:46 PM   #7598
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65 spur 38 pinion. that gives me a 3.42 fdr for aspualt

ill try that
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Old 10-16-2008, 05:47 PM   #7599
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also its a 17.5
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:12 PM   #7600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeckLancer View Post
hey guys i just got all my brushless stuff for my tc5 but when i put the new spur no matter what i do i can hear it binding when i turn the spur. its kinda more like a click. I even took the screws out wile installed and it still clicks.

any suggestions? the spur is a 65 tooth btw
Are you running the o-ring and washers on the top deck? I have had the screws on my spur start to back out and start hitting on the washers and clicking. Other than that, my only other guesses are already spoken...
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:58 PM   #7601
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To get 2.75 rear toe which shims do i use? just wanna make sure i do it right LOL.
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Old 10-18-2008, 11:39 AM   #7602
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2.5* rear toe is the thick and the thin spacer. To get 2.75 you'd have to use another small spacer, not included in the kit.
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Old 10-18-2008, 11:50 AM   #7603
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So after a few weeks of driving this car, I keep getting faster. I have the TC5R and have never driven rubber on carpet before. This car is amazing. I have chopped almost 20 seconds off my time in the last two weeks. Partly learning the car, learning the tires, and getting the hang of the onroad stuff again.

It's amazing at how much a small change really affects the handling of the car. In learning the car I have been trying different things when I get the chance. The last thing I did was pull the o-rings off the top deck in the rear. This made the back end really twitchy and completely unstable. It was really fast but not consistent enough to leave like that. I ran out of time but I will be pulling the o-rings out of the front end for the next practice day and see what happens.

Out of the box I have made very few changes. I went to 32.5 Losi oil's all around, gold springs in front, blue springs in rear. 5.5mm ride height rear, 5mm front. Outer hole in the rear hub. I have taken the set screws out of the CVD's as they are captured anyway and used two of those screws in the spare hole in the rear hub to add a little bit of strength. 1.5* front and 2* rear of camber.

This is with a Mazda 6 body. I was running the R9R but I found the back end to be unstable and unpredictable. I will be trying it again with the orings out of the front and that might help tame it down. We'll see.

Overall, I'm very happy with this car and I'm looking forward to see what else I can do with it.
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Old 10-18-2008, 01:52 PM   #7604
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*high grip question*

Ok, the grip came up big time at last nights race. I was having a really hard time getting the car to rotate in the corner. Just wouldnt drive upto the corner and when it did, it would just crawl threw the corner. Was a full sec off the lap times. Tried a one way and that helped a little. Was good for 2/10th but didnt like the way it felt.

The last round I changed my ft wheel base to stock (2mm from 1mm) and rasied my rear roll center (#2 block to #3) and it got way better. Would drive upto the corner with no problem. Dropped my lap times 7/10ths also. It still seems like it is pushing mid corner. Would raising the front roll center give more on-power steering? Or maybe a little more mid corner steering? I had 2mm bump steer spacers in and pulled them a few ago but havnt drove it to see what it did. My tie rods are 1B.

Thanks
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Old 10-18-2008, 09:40 PM   #7605
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Hey PartTime,
No fair coming on here and asking for help!! LOL. I'll let you know that my
car also had a slight mid corner push to it even if it didn't look like it.

I await a more knowledgeable rubber tire guy gives you an answer because
I want to know too. LOL.

James
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