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Old 10-14-2008, 07:11 AM   #7576
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hey guys, i bent my B side front bearing cap - are there any better aftermarket parts than the stocked bearing caps=these look like potential benders not breakers.
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:38 AM   #7577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_DAVE4 View Post
The pull to the left is related to slop between the servo saver tube and the steering bell crank. The hex shaped nut is loose. I used epoxy to bond the two together to eliminate this issue. Search my posts for more details.

Dave
Thats good you figured it out-my pull on hard throttle appears to be a missing 2mm wheelbase shim on the front left inner hinge pin.
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:00 AM   #7578
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Originally Posted by treemagnet View Post
just wondering if anyone uses the hard parts on asphlat using rubber?? someone said to me if i change to hard parts i should softening up my springs and shocks a little bit. does this sound right?
I and most other team driver use hard parts all the time. The car will not be as forgiving as it will be with the softer parts, but it is ultimately faster.

The biggest single change will be going to hard caster blocks, then hard front arms, then hard rear arms. Hard tteering blocks and hub carriers will not really make any difference.

You won't need to make any changes to your setup when going to hard parts.
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:54 AM   #7579
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To get 2.75 rear toe which shims do i use? just wanna make sure i do it right LOL.
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:44 PM   #7580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_DAVE4 View Post
The pull to the left is related to slop between the servo saver tube and the steering bell crank. The hex shaped nut is loose. I used epoxy to bond the two together to eliminate this issue. Search my posts for more details.

Dave
RC_DAVE4--you have to be missing a bearing if you have slop there?

tc5r maunal page 5 step 4--you need 2 bearings to stablize the steering post

also make sure you have the steering post spacer there too--page 5 step 5

i thought i fixed my hard pull to the left on hard throttle by correcting my arm shim installation-it helped but theres still a slight pull to the left on hard throttle---i think i see the missing part that is causing it---a 2mm wheelbase shim on the fron left inner hinge pin is missing---might explain why smooth throttle is fine and hard throttle is bad

check that--make sure you use 8 wheel base shims total on the car--2 for each inner hinge pin
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:20 PM   #7581
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Ok finished my car, did notice one issue. When going straight it's tracks pretty true, but for some reason in reverse it pulls to the left ?. Any ideas guys ?

Pic of my finished car -

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Old 10-14-2008, 02:22 PM   #7582
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forgot to add I have 0 toe in front and using the middle thickness shim for the rear arms to give me some toe in.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:58 PM   #7583
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Questions??

I am looking at this car and a mi3.5 and was wondering how easy the car is to work on change set up and fit lipos the hole hog basically any feed back would be great

cheers in advance
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Old 10-14-2008, 03:00 PM   #7584
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I would look at parts availability before anything. I'm sure that you'll find that most hobby shops will stock parts for the TC5 and not so many shops will stock parts for the Schumacher car.
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Old 10-14-2008, 03:01 PM   #7585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vision View Post
Ok finished my car, did notice one issue. When going straight it's tracks pretty true, but for some reason in reverse it pulls to the left ?. Any ideas guys ?

Pic of my finished car -

real rc race cars don't have reverse so we wouldn't know
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:17 AM   #7586
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Default Servo

I was thinking of trying the AE DS1313 (173 oz. Torque, .13 Speed) in my TC5.

Any experirnce with this servo - is it enough?

Should I go with the JR 9100S, or is that overkill.

I am racing competitively, rubber tires on carpet.

Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:40 AM   #7587
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I would say both are overkill. A Hitec 625 would be good. These cars are so light they don't need a lot of torque.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTRezNIN View Post
I was thinking of trying the AE DS1313 (173 oz. Torque, .13 Speed) in my TC5.

Any experirnce with this servo - is it enough?

Should I go with the JR 9100S, or is that overkill.

I am racing competitively, rubber tires on carpet.

Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:45 AM   #7588
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For the kind of money you're looking at spending, the AE 1015 or the futaba 9551 would be better choices. Based on speed, not torque
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:46 AM   #7589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vision View Post
Ok finished my car, did notice one issue. When going straight it's tracks pretty true, but for some reason in reverse it pulls to the left ?. Any ideas guys ?

Pic of my finished car -

give the car about .5 degree of toe in at the front, that should cure the issue. you will have that with zero degree of toe.

good looking car by the way, is that a drift car?
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:07 AM   #7590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
For the kind of money you're looking at spending, the AE 1015 or the futaba 9551 would be better choices. Based on speed, not torque
I agree, the 9551 is fast as hell. I use a hitec HS6965HB servo, karbonite geared servo. This thing is insanely fast. .08 transit time. It's one of those servos where if you turn your transmitter wheel and then let it go, the wheels bounce with the spring action on the transmitter
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