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Old 10-04-2008, 07:28 PM   #7501
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My choice of body is usually decided by the amount of traction.

High bite = speed 6

med bite....low bite = regular 6

I always run my wings way back and tune around that.
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:38 PM   #7502
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Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
I ran the kit with the box stock set up last night for the first time with rubber on carpet. I ran 13.5 and the body I was using was the Protoform R9R. I ended up lengthening my down travel (reduced droop?) both front and rear and changed the sront springs from blue to silver for silver all around. I was looking for a little more rear grip low speed. I have been reading alot of the R9R body saying that might be a big part of the problem. Try another body, which I have, or just play with set up some more? What would you guys do first?
I got to see that body the other night. looks like a wedge on the front. Can assume the amount of steering it adds. The mazda is a good body but prefer the stratus ap for the added down force. I would swap the body out first.

Are you looking for on or off power low speed traction?

Putting the diff in and/or a step harder front tire will help settle it down. Think you went the wrong way with the softer front spring. That normally adds more off power steering.

Had a race today at a new track. Car was lose but not horrible. I had 28s all around. Went to 32s in front and TQ'ed and won.

Changes from stock are:
front diff
50wt and blue springs all around
pulled sway bars

dk
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:54 PM   #7503
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I had actually forgotten about the diffs until early this morning. I am going to try raising the rear diff.

For the springs, when I went to the silvers all around the car felt more predictable to me. And I was going faster as well. It was weird what I was looking for last night. A little more initial but I wanted it stable. I got everything except the stable part. With the help of the guys on here I should be able to have a decent set up by Wednesday night I would think.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:27 AM   #7504
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From what I have learned about the car, every thing on the car, minus the shocks, is just fine tunning. Dont exspect to see any major diffrents in the car when you move the diff. Put some 50wt in the shocks and see how stable it is but still very nimble. If your on a real tight track 50wt frt 40wt back will pin the rear down on slow speed but still rotate in the corner. If your track is a little bigger then maybe 60wt frt and 50wt back would be better.

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Old 10-05-2008, 06:50 AM   #7505
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Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
I had actually forgotten about the diffs until early this morning. I am going to try raising the rear diff.

For the springs, when I went to the silvers all around the car felt more predictable to me. And I was going faster as well. It was weird what I was looking for last night. A little more initial but I wanted it stable. I got everything except the stable part. With the help of the guys on here I should be able to have a decent set up by Wednesday night I would think.
I would sink the rear diff down. The diff is a similar change to roll center in terms of how you affect the car. Max steering would be a low front diff, high rear...you might be hurting yourself if you raise it
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:48 AM   #7506
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does anyone know what gearing to use or a ball park number of gearing for a 90x40 track running rubber tires on carpet with a 17.5 and 64 pitch gears? im looking for both pinion and spur. any and all help would be appreciated.

thanks in advance
Jeff
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Old 10-05-2008, 03:39 PM   #7507
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There is so much more involved with tuning your car.

Just saying run this shock oil or this spring doesn't cut it.

Setups are all about weight transfer, balance and speed of weight transfer. Every change you make to your car will effect one of those things. As soon as you start to understand what your car is doing in terms of those 3 things you will be better equiped to make the right changes.

Lets say you have 2 car with different setups on them and you make the same change to both cars (maybe springs or oil......wheelbase..... it doesn't matter) That same change could do the complete opposite thing to each car.......why......because the 2 cars already have different rates and speed of weight transfer and a different balance.

This is why when you ask a setup question you get 10 different answers. Most people associate a certain change with what it did for them the last time they tried it....instead of taking into consideration that sombody elses car might have different balance and weight transfer characteristics than their own car.

You may now return to your regularly scheduled program.

Bottom line....its hard to give setup advice on the interweb.
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Old 10-05-2008, 04:00 PM   #7508
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Download the Xray T2 manual. It helped me a lot with setup. It explains how each setting affects handling.
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Old 10-05-2008, 04:23 PM   #7509
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Originally Posted by revo61 View Post
Download the Xray T2 manual. It helped me a lot with setup. It explains how each setting affects handling.
Hey guys, he actually needs the T2 setup book.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...7d50f801e56f65
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:31 PM   #7510
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Josh did you have to cahnge set up form the jaco blues to the muchmore tire?
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Old 10-05-2008, 06:18 PM   #7511
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Just my .02 here, but XXX Main has a great book that explains prettty much every aspect of understanding setup on your car. It also has a section at the end of each chapter that helps with adjusting the car. I just forget to pack it every week!
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Old 10-06-2008, 04:07 AM   #7512
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Josh, most of your post I agree with but, I have never seen two of the same car, no matter how wildly diffrent the setup is, do completley diffrent things with the same change. If you put thicker oil in the shocks, no matter how diffrent the chasis, it will slow down the weight transfer.

I have seen two of the same car, setup the same, handle diffrently. Back in the day, I had two tc3's setup the same. Amazing how diffrent they would handle on the same track on the same day.

Then you have to take into account how the driver likes to drive. Some are stock guys. They pin the throttle every where and only lift a little when they have too. Then you got the mod guys. They tend to drive on the end of the trigger and roll up to the corner instead of the stock guy that drives into the corner. That will change the way a car feels and handles.

Needless to say, its very hard to give setup advise on a car you have never seen on the track to asses what its doing. I know from my car that on carpet, new no traction carpet at that, #2 piston and 35 wt oil is to fast to control blue or silver springs. It squares the corner off and is really hard to be smooth with. Some guys like that but I prefur somthing a little more stable. Tried 40wt and it was still to fast. 50wt seem to do the trick and the consistant lap times proved it was correct.

Take every thing you read on the net with a grain of salt.

DK
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:18 AM   #7513
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Originally Posted by steve eaves View Post
Josh did you have to cahnge set up form the jaco blues to the muchmore tire?
very little

we had alot more traction than vegas had with the blues
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:33 AM   #7514
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Default Question to Josh H IIC setup

Hi Josh,

Thanks for posting your setup from IIC. I am currently runing it, with some changes to fit a 5 cell car with a TC spec mounted behind the cells.

Are you runing A or B on the rear upright, for the upper camber link? We normally use A, but I remember a setup where you ran B.

Best,
Peter Knudsen
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:59 AM   #7515
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hi,

i have a new tc5r. a little confused with the spool option assembly,-do i build the spool (spool pad kind) with diff balls or not? the maunal pictures for the spool is a little confusing.

also, i have only one turnbuckle i could not assemble- with one end not threading to the ball cup - any advice on this problem?

thanks
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