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Old 09-18-2008, 11:02 PM   #7321
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Are the TC3 locknuts stronger than the kit locknut's ? I'm having trouble with the kit locknuts stripping when tightening the diff.
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Old 09-19-2008, 02:32 AM   #7322
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Yeahyeah- one thing that helps quite a bit is if you glue a shim ( the one from the lower roll center to space out ) on the steering block so it hits the caster block. you won't loose steering throw, but it will help a lot with the chatter. I usually use the thin one
Could you post a pic of this I just built my new TC5R I noticed the chatter problem and would like to see your fix...
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Old 09-19-2008, 05:49 AM   #7323
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Originally Posted by itchynads View Post
Are the TC3 locknuts stronger than the kit locknut's ? I'm having trouble with the kit locknuts stripping when tightening the diff.
Yes, not sure if I would use them in a diff though. They would probably work but they dont fit as snug in the outdrive as the TC5 t-nut does. Works great for the slipper spool though, at least for me it does.
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Old 09-19-2008, 12:19 PM   #7324
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Originally Posted by RC_DAVE4 View Post
Not true, it depends on how big the hex is on the lock nut. The TC5 hex nut is really small compared to a typical 2-56 lock nut.

Dave
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Actually it is true. I'm running those exact lock nuts. They are TC3 locknuts and fit perfect. PN ASC3904.
Thanks, thats what I was looking for. Also to be clear, a typical 2-56 locknut would not fit as the hex size is too big. The TC5 lock nut is very small. Thanks for letting us know that it is the same as the TC3 2-56 locknut.

In regards to stripping, yes it is easy that's how I broke my first locknut and needed to get another and I thought it was insane to have to buy a complete diff rebuild kit just to get the locknut. They should throw a few extra's in the kit so you can get a feel for the tightness of the diff. Breaking a locknut is the only way you can know how tight is too tight.
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Old 09-19-2008, 12:30 PM   #7325
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Hmmmm....I followed the instructions on my diff and haven't had a problem. Wonder if I'm doing something wrong...
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Old 09-19-2008, 02:10 PM   #7326
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Originally Posted by RC_DAVE4 View Post
In regards to stripping, yes it is easy that's how I broke my first locknut and needed to get another and I thought it was insane to have to buy a complete diff rebuild kit just to get the locknut. They should throw a few extra's in the kit so you can get a feel for the tightness of the diff. Breaking a locknut is the only way you can know how tight is too tight.
I wish the kit would have came with an extra one, as I over tighten one and it shattered but then I just used one of the t-nuts used on a T4/B4 diff, and it works just fine.


Tip, don't bulid a kit at 2-3am as you might forget that a diff is ment to move (I forgot that the diff rotates, so I was trying to make the screw as tight as it will go, and the nut shattered)
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Old 09-19-2008, 02:15 PM   #7327
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Tip, don't bulid a kit at 2-3am as you might forget that a diff is ment to move (I forgot that the diff rotates, so I was trying to make the screw as tight as it will go, and the nut shattered)



I've got my first race with this car next saturday (if my parts arrive ). I'll post up some results and I'm sure I'll have some problem with tuning it =D
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Old 09-19-2008, 02:36 PM   #7328
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sometimes better to use the kit tools, I dusted both diff nuts with the torque I got from my fancy set of drivers.
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Old 09-19-2008, 03:48 PM   #7329
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sometimes better to use the kit tools, I dusted both diff nuts with the torque I got from my fancy set of drivers.
Thankfully i bought 2 kits just incase i encounterd these problems! and my brother stole a set of slipper pads to build a diff for his scythe as he is sick of damaging spools!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-19-2008, 03:59 PM   #7330
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I got spare ones from some old Tamiya servo-saver ball-studs, they used them to hold the ball in place on the servo horn.
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:45 PM   #7331
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getting a tc5 maybe.
what is the most ideal replacement part needed...and decent set-ups to find for your not so tipical rubber tire for carpet...meaning its not hook and loop carpet.but its not ozite either...but if i had to compare its more like ozite...i honestly think it bightes hard...

lmk,
thx,
matt
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:51 PM   #7332
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For parts I would stock up on castor blocks, steering blocks, a few a-arms, arm mount nuts, and the bushings that go in the castor blocks. Then later get more parts for if you might ever need them (and so you can keep running later in the day if you break early in the day). Also a few extra bearings wouldn't be a bad idea as well as a screw kit, and extra ball studs.


As for a set-up I don't have a clue



The TC5 is a great car, and is a blast to drive
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:59 PM   #7333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon madness View Post
For parts I would stock up on castor blocks, steering blocks, a few a-arms, arm mount nuts, and the bushings that go in the castor blocks. Then later get more parts for if you might ever need them (and so you can keep running later in the day if you break early in the day). Also a few extra bearings wouldn't be a bad idea as well as a screw kit, and extra ball studs.


As for a set-up I don't have a clue



The TC5 is a great car, and is a blast to drive
thx for the tip....my buddy had a tc5 for last yrs carpet...i drove it...it was pretty good...it was pretty much box stock set-up and it felt pretty good..a little lazy reaction from it but it was good.i had a losi type-r last season and it was a good car....i like it.....but i sold all of my smaller electronics for it and dont feel like buying more....another buddy of mine has one he will sell to me for cheap..so im going to jump on it.........

i knew i was going to make the ae switch....im glad i finally made up my mind to do it...or at least untill i get some wheel time with it to see if i really like it......lol

again......thx
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Old 09-19-2008, 08:08 PM   #7334
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Add CVD blades to that list (it's a good list). Also even if it's a TC5F make sure you have a set of the new Cam Holders part #31184 - they have about 180* of rotation compared to the originals that have like 100*.

There should be some good rubber on carpet setups from factory guys who just ran the IIC.
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Old 09-19-2008, 08:30 PM   #7335
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CVD blades??? What are those??? lol j/k I still use plastic outdrives.
So if you use plastic outdirve then the alum ring is a good idea to have, and if useing the alum outdrives then extra cvd blades are a good idea to have.


Here are some pic's of a new body for the indoor season (it is a simple body that I painted up)

The wing is peril white (same as the back section). I will mount that up when it gets closer to raceday.



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