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Old 09-10-2008, 02:43 PM   #7246
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To continue with the shock building skills, Juho posted this on the AE Forum.

Normally no rebound means that when you push the shock shaft in it stays in. 25% would mean that is comes out about 25% of its lenght. The easiest way to get the rebound you want is to build the shock shaft as far in as you want it to end up. For example, press it in half way, place the bladder on the shock and press it down so all the extra oil comes out. The place the black plastic piece on the bladder and carefully put the blue collar on.

When the bladders get old they tend to swell up a bit and that can make the shock a bit difficult to build.
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Old 09-10-2008, 03:55 PM   #7247
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In Vegas I was running 94/41 with the Novak 13.5 with a rubber tire car. The 94 was a Precision racing systems spur!

17.5 I was running 94/50 and they all fit just fine.

I have a PRS 96 spur and I am having problems getting it to spin free without rubbing the top deck. The center of the PRS is thicker than the stock gear.
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Old 09-10-2008, 03:58 PM   #7248
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im hearing alot of talk about 17.5s. how are they comparing to a stock brushed motor? and which ones are performing well
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:20 PM   #7249
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im hearing alot of talk about 17.5s. how are they comparing to a stock brushed motor? and which ones are performing well
The 17.5's are a stock equivalent, some say a tic slower or faster. Pretty much all of them are good but I would say the new trinity motors are the fastest.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:09 PM   #7250
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I have a PRS 96 spur and I am having problems getting it to spin free without rubbing the top deck. The center of the PRS is thicker than the stock gear.
You will need to back the screws out of the spur gear as they are pulling in too tight, just put some blue thread lock on them and snug up the bolts, they should be fine. I have had the same problem and that fixed it!!!
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:11 PM   #7251
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im hearing alot of talk about 17.5s. how are they comparing to a stock brushed motor? and which ones are performing well
I have run both and have found out that on a longer track that brushless 17.5 is the better motor especially when you go up to seven and eight minute manis. You do not have to worry as much about heat with them, and yes the Trinity motor with the vented can is alot better temprature and power wise from my personal testing.
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:37 PM   #7252
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I have a PRS 96 spur and I am having problems getting it to spin free without rubbing the top deck. The center of the PRS is thicker than the stock gear.
I had that same problem when I built my TC5, I took off a very small amount of the inside edges of the top deck with a file and it fixed the problem...
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:39 AM   #7253
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
To continue with the shock building skills, Juho posted this on the AE Forum.

Normally no rebound means that when you push the shock shaft in it stays in. 25% would mean that is comes out about 25% of its lenght. The easiest way to get the rebound you want is to build the shock shaft as far in as you want it to end up. For example, press it in half way, place the bladder on the shock and press it down so all the extra oil comes out. The place the black plastic piece on the bladder and carefully put the blue collar on.

When the bladders get old they tend to swell up a bit and that can make the shock a bit difficult to build.
Thanks to all who posted about shock rebound I will be trying this out. All my shocks are built the same way, shaft all the way out, fill up with oil, put bladder on - checking for no air bubbles under it - and screw cap on. This results in - since I tested it - about 90% rebound. I see most people like between 25% and 50% so I will try and get this feel in them now.

Interested to know what I should feel in the car with this new set up, I will be running it tomorrow indoors and will post what I think I feel.

Thanks again all of you
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:27 PM   #7254
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Anyone got a good alternative to the stock diff thrust bearing?
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:57 PM   #7255
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Anyone got a good alternative to the stock diff thrust bearing?
Tamiya pre-built with the HPI t-nut and screw. It will be very smooth.
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:09 PM   #7256
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Tamiya pre-built with the HPI t-nut and screw. It will be very smooth.
do you have a part number on those?
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:56 PM   #7257
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do you have a part number on those?
HPI73522
TAM9949300
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:10 PM   #7258
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My TC5 is for sale in the for sale threads. Please let anyone know who is interested please. Thanks.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:21 PM   #7259
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Default Shocks

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In addition, before step #1, put the spring retainer on the bottom of the shock. Then in step #4, push the shaft all the way in. It usually results in perfect rebound. Credit Brian Jucha for this tip.
Thanks for this tip I tried it and it worked great!!!
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Old 09-11-2008, 11:52 PM   #7260
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Anyone got a good alternative to the stock diff thrust bearing?
tamiya one is no good go to precision rc and look at the jade ones they are about 10 dollars each and are ceramic! these are the best i have seen or used for the price!!! my brother swears by them for mod!!
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