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Old 09-09-2008, 07:35 PM   #7231
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artwork,
Wow, is that a normal Spur/pinon ratio for rubber tires and a 17.5.
So you ran this set up at the IIC, which ran jaco blues right?
That seems really low or am I just way off on the brushless systems?
What system are you running? Do you run fans on the esc and motor?

Just trying to catch up to the brushless system and lipo. Our club is allowing it new this year for the carpet season.
Thanks for any help.
God Bless
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:01 PM   #7232
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Yes
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:10 PM   #7233
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artwork,
Wow, is that a normal Spur/pinon ratio for rubber tires and a 17.5.
So you ran this set up at the IIC, which ran jaco blues right?
That seems really low or am I just way off on the brushless systems?
What system are you running? Do you run fans on the esc and motor?

Just trying to catch up to the brushless system and lipo. Our club is allowing it new this year for the carpet season.
Thanks for any help.
God Bless
Yeah 17.5 sucks to gear...

Jaco blues in Vegas...they are great on carpet

we were working with Joe Pillars from Orion to get the gearing just right. I was pleased with how the motor performed after we figured it out.

LRP Sphere TC with a fan, but not at all needed with 17.5. The speedo was coming off warm to the touch and the motor was coming off at 160.

Brushless and LIPO is the best things for club racers ever.
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Last edited by artwork; 09-09-2008 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:19 PM   #7234
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Guys, can you help me with a stearing problem with my new TC5.

I am running the slipper spool up front and a diff in the rear and when I hit the throttle I get a stearing pull from the belt torque. Currently running a Novak 13.5 geared at 5.14 FDR.

Is this normal or is there a way to reduce this effect. Belts are not overly tight, setup is close to stock.

This is my first belt drive car so I don't know if this is normal or not.

Thanks
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:41 PM   #7235
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Guys, can you help me with a stearing problem with my new TC5.

I am running the slipper spool up front and a diff in the rear and when I hit the throttle I get a stearing pull from the belt torque. Currently running a Novak 13.5 geared at 5.14 FDR.

Is this normal or is there a way to reduce this effect. Belts are not overly tight, setup is close to stock.

This is my first belt drive car so I don't know if this is normal or not.

Thanks
pulls to one side? is all the tweak out of the car? a tweaked car could cause a pull to one side
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:26 PM   #7236
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pulls to one side? is all the tweak out of the car? a tweaked car could cause a pull to one side
No chassis tweak, although I have not tuned the left/right weight balance yet.

I am running a 6C NIMH battery.
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:35 PM   #7237
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No chassis tweak, although I have not tuned the left/right weight balance yet.

I am running a 6C NIMH battery.
How tight is your rear diff? Maybe try loosening it up a 1/4 turn or so and see if it gets better.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:02 PM   #7238
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How tight is your rear diff? Maybe try loosening it up a 1/4 turn or so and see if it gets better.
It's not too tight, I backed it off 1/4 turn after tightening it.

I did take apart the front spool and found that I had not shimmed it back properly when I was tweaking the belt. There was a shim on the right bearing but not on the left. This may be the problem.
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:22 AM   #7239
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Originally Posted by RC_DAVE4 View Post
Guys, can you help me with a stearing problem with my new TC5.

I am running the slipper spool up front and a diff in the rear and when I hit the throttle I get a stearing pull from the belt torque. Currently running a Novak 13.5 geared at 5.14 FDR.

Is this normal or is there a way to reduce this effect. Belts are not overly tight, setup is close to stock.

This is my first belt drive car so I don't know if this is normal or not.

Thanks
Your slipper spool is slipping. Add the thrust-balls to the thrust assembley (like a diff) and use red loctite on the diff nut.
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Old 09-10-2008, 07:36 AM   #7240
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Default Shock rebound

Hi,

This is a really helpfull thread about this car, I have been running it now for about a year and slowly working my way through setups and terminology. There is still one thing that has me stumped which I hope you all can help with...

What is meant by shock re-bound 50% or 25% and with these shocks how do you set it? I mean there is no bleed hole.

I thank you in advance for your time and help.

Cheers

Paul
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:34 AM   #7241
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Hi,

This is a really helpfull thread about this car, I have been running it now for about a year and slowly working my way through setups and terminology. There is still one thing that has me stumped which I hope you all can help with...

What is meant by shock re-bound 50% or 25% and with these shocks how do you set it? I mean there is no bleed hole.

I thank you in advance for your time and help.

Cheers

Paul
You bleed the shocks by how you apply the diaphram and by how far the piston is pushed in while you are building them...The more oil you bleed out with the diaphram, the less rebound you will have...If you push the piston in about half way before you finish assembly, you will have less rebound...

Thats the best I can describe it, hope this helps...
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:30 AM   #7242
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Originally Posted by hedge1970 View Post
Hi,

This is a really helpfull thread about this car, I have been running it now for about a year and slowly working my way through setups and terminology. There is still one thing that has me stumped which I hope you all can help with...

What is meant by shock re-bound 50% or 25% and with these shocks how do you set it? I mean there is no bleed hole.

I thank you in advance for your time and help.

Cheers

Paul
Rebound is the amount of travel there is in the shock shaft with oil and pressure. If you build your shocks put oil in them, bleed them, and close them. Push the shaft in as far as it will go and release it. If the shaft slides out half way down the shaft then you have 50% rebound. If it goes all the way to the end then you have 100% rebound. Rebound should always be slow (meaning the shock shaft should not shoot out of the shock body, but slowely creep its way out) and both shocks on one end of the car should be very simular. You don't want to run 100% rebound in the right rear and 25% rebound in the left rear. Rebound can be adjusted by the amount of oil in the shock body and the types of foam above the bladder.

Hard concept to explain and takes a fair amount of practice to get them just right.

Hope this helps
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:02 PM   #7243
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Your slipper spool is slipping. Add the thrust-balls to the thrust assembley (like a diff) and use red loctite on the diff nut.
I went through the drive train last night and made sure everything was correct. What do the thrust balls do in a spool?

Also I noticed that the stearing setup does have some play, mostly in the servo saver and ball joints.

Dave
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:20 PM   #7244
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Originally Posted by RC_DAVE4 View Post
Guys, can you help me with a stearing problem with my new TC5.

I am running the slipper spool up front and a diff in the rear and when I hit the throttle I get a stearing pull from the belt torque. Currently running a Novak 13.5 geared at 5.14 FDR.

Is this normal or is there a way to reduce this effect. Belts are not overly tight, setup is close to stock.

This is my first belt drive car so I don't know if this is normal or not.

Thanks
Just a question, but have you checked your front wheel bearings???
I thought I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a bearing. I was amazed after I found it as both of them were not bad just the outer one.
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:29 PM   #7245
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Since it sounds like you have a problem with the shock tops-
1. fill with oil as normal

2. place bladder on top of shock, making sure to let out any air trapped under the bladder.

3. Stack plastic shock end on bladder, then the aluminum blue cap over that.

4. Slowly start to screw on the cap, enough to get the threads started. Push the shaft in almost to the threaded portion. Oil/air may come out.

5. Screw on slightly more, making sure the shaft is not rebounding/sliding out. Everything should feel seated correctly. Continue holding the shaft in as you finish screwing on the cap.

6. Check rebound. You may need to partially loosen the cap if the rebound is too fast/too much, and let some oil out. You'll notice the cap gets to a point where you can feel it's not tight, then you can push in the shaft to get some oil out.

I had to play with the shocks a lot, and I also built a TON of shocks to be able to get a good feel for everything. Once you get the feel, it goes together pretty quick. It's not really hard, but if you just play around a bit, you'll get it.
In addition, before step #1, put the spring retainer on the bottom of the shock. Then in step #4, push the shaft all the way in. It usually results in perfect rebound. Credit Brian Jucha for this tip.
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