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Old 08-31-2008, 09:47 AM   #7066
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thanks, i figured that's what they ment but it seems everyone's doing it differently.

if guys are setting droop by lifting the car, what good are all the droop gauges being sold?

would the plastic spacers in the shocks be considered downstops? i'm using this setup, http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...birds_2008.pdf and it looks as though i need more stroke in the rear arms. once i set ride height and lift the rear of the car the arms do not droop down, it's like the suspension is at max stroke while at ride height.
those spacers should not be downstops. make sure you didnt thread the ball end too far up the shockshaft, that can cause that problem. also double check that you didnt crank down on the droopscrews too far.

on the droop gauges, normally you see more people use a gauge like the asc. or hudy ones with rubber tires, where the tire size never changes, and people use mm above ride height with foam tires where 2 people could have 2 diffrent sized tires.
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Old 08-31-2008, 10:35 AM   #7067
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
thanks, i figured that's what they ment but it seems everyone's doing it differently.

if guys are setting droop by lifting the car, what good are all the droop gauges being sold?

would the plastic spacers in the shocks be considered downstops? i'm using this setup, http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...birds_2008.pdf and it looks as though i need more stroke in the rear arms. once i set ride height and lift the rear of the car the arms do not droop down, it's like the suspension is at max stroke while at ride height.
I use droop blocks but it's easier for me to adjust on the fly using the above method. Once I get the car handling like I want I'll use the droop gauges to measure it and put it on a setup sheet. Also I use them in the beginning just to set each side equally.
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Old 08-31-2008, 11:38 AM   #7068
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
those spacers should not be downstops. make sure you didnt thread the ball end too far up the shockshaft, that can cause that problem. also double check that you didnt crank down on the droopscrews too far.

on the droop gauges, normally you see more people use a gauge like the asc. or hudy ones with rubber tires, where the tire size never changes, and people use mm above ride height with foam tires where 2 people could have 2 diffrent sized tires.
shouldn't the ball cups be threaded on until you reach the end of the threads? does anyone know the overall length of a complete shock? also the droop screws are not even touching yet. i built the front and rear shocks the same way and the problem is only on the rear, and yes all the shocks have the same ball cups on them.
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Old 08-31-2008, 11:46 AM   #7069
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I am building the TC5 ball differental and I noticed that the 6581 ball diff has a little left/right play in it after assembly. I have adjusted the diff with the screw but it has no effect on the play. Is this normal?

Thanks

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Old 08-31-2008, 12:06 PM   #7070
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Yes because the diff rings should not touch the diff gear.
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Old 08-31-2008, 01:03 PM   #7071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
shouldn't the ball cups be threaded on until you reach the end of the threads? does anyone know the overall length of a complete shock? also the droop screws are not even touching yet. i built the front and rear shocks the same way and the problem is only on the rear, and yes all the shocks have the same ball cups on them.
not necessarily. the shock has to be at least as long as the distance from ballstud to ballstud, otherwise you get a situation like what you have, the shock isnt long enough to allow any travel, and you fix this by making the shock longer, and the only way to do this is to nthread the ball end a bit. it will hold up just fine as long as the ball end isnt hangin on by olny a few threads.
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Old 08-31-2008, 02:16 PM   #7072
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Yes because the diff rings should not touch the diff gear.
Thank you very much!

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Old 08-31-2008, 02:54 PM   #7073
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
not necessarily. the shock has to be at least as long as the distance from ballstud to ballstud, otherwise you get a situation like what you have, the shock isnt long enough to allow any travel, and you fix this by making the shock longer, and the only way to do this is to nthread the ball end a bit. it will hold up just fine as long as the ball end isnt hangin on by olny a few threads.
now that's very do-able. can someone second this?
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Old 08-31-2008, 03:09 PM   #7074
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You can also use longer ball cups. That way you thread the cup on all the way, and still have a long enough shock.
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Old 08-31-2008, 03:12 PM   #7075
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here you can see the drivers side shock has been unhooked and the pass. side is still attached. notice the drivers side arm doesn't droop. droop screws are backed out and arm is not touching the chassis. suspension moves freely. now if i unhook the camber link the arm will droop.

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Old 08-31-2008, 04:01 PM   #7076
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Odd question, but do the fan screws on the LRP Sphere TC comp actually screw into the ESC's heat-sink? How's the fan held in place?
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:08 PM   #7077
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Odd question, but do the fan screws on the LRP Sphere TC comp actually screw into the ESC's heat-sink? How's the fan held in place?
you know i was thinking this also. i had two esc's where the screws were nice and tight and the new one i got the screws are loose.
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:23 PM   #7078
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
here you can see the drivers side shock has been unhooked and the pass. side is still attached. notice the drivers side arm doesn't droop. droop screws are backed out and arm is not touching the chassis. suspension moves freely. now if i unhook the camber link the arm will droop.

Ive seen this on other cars. It could be the c hub and arm interfering under certain tire size dropp combinations. Many times all it takes is a little dremel work on teh chub or arm . . .
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:27 PM   #7079
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let me check that out

Last edited by LOW ET; 08-31-2008 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:28 PM   #7080
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you know i was thinking this also. i had two esc's where the screws were nice and tight and the new one i got the screws are loose.
I've had two fall out and lost one altogether. Anyone have have any ideas on a good way to secure the fan onto the heat-sink?
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