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Old 08-06-2008, 06:23 PM   #6811
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I just purchased a TC5R and I can't get the diff together. It seems like the diff bolt isn't long enough or the spring is too long. Ive built atleat 10 AE kits and have never had a problem like this. Is there something im missing?
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:33 PM   #6812
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Hold the diff nut in with a thin allen wrench to push it in. Also, remember to crush the spring before hand. Try this and it will work.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:37 PM   #6813
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Thanks but I have done that per the instructions but to no avail. Is anyone else having this problem?
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:47 PM   #6814
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Doug,

The spring must be compressed, do it a couple times. The nut has to be all the way down, many people think its all the way down and its not. It has to be down so far that it might be possible to put a second nut inside the nut holder on top of the first nut which you don't do of course.

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Old 08-06-2008, 06:57 PM   #6815
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corallyman is right. I forgot that the nut has to be installed very deep in the plastic t-holder, I had the same exact frustrating experience with the car.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:02 PM   #6816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg View Post
LATC3 - Your experrience is much different than mine. One my TC5R if I get on power coming out of a corner the rear end immediately spins out. I'm trying to get this worked out, but am not having much luck. Hopefully this weekends time att he truck will yield better results, as I lose so much time coming out of corners its not worth trying to race yet. I'v noticed that the front spool/diff loosens during every run, so ordered the front spool in an effort to have the care driven equally on both ends. Will also try stiffer shocks in the rear, and possibly laying the rear shocks down a little.

Apparently I'm not the only one experiencing this problem, as there is a thread on the ae discussion forum also. Cant wait to find a solution to this problem, as otherwise the car seems to run great!
If you post your setup maybe we can help, or maybe you already did that and I didn't see it.

For those of you who have the new spool diff come loose are you using locktight on the bolt? Just curious.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:12 PM   #6817
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Thanks for the input. I thought the nut was in the t holder but obviously is wasn't in all the way. Thanks guys!
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:29 PM   #6818
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Originally Posted by markg View Post
LATC3 - Your experrience is much different than mine. One my TC5R if I get on power coming out of a corner the rear end immediately spins out. I'm trying to get this worked out, but am not having much luck. Hopefully this weekends time att he truck will yield better results, as I lose so much time coming out of corners its not worth trying to race yet. I'v noticed that the front spool/diff loosens during every run, so ordered the front spool in an effort to have the care driven equally on both ends. Will also try stiffer shocks in the rear, and possibly laying the rear shocks down a little.

Apparently I'm not the only one experiencing this problem, as there is a thread on the ae discussion forum also. Cant wait to find a solution to this problem, as otherwise the car seems to run great!
you would want softer rear springs, not stiffer. also, check how much front droop you have. more droop (lower # on ae gauge) will make the car push more on power
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:37 PM   #6819
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
anyone running a lrp vector x11 10.5 in one of these? what are you geared at for foam racing?
The Novak 10.5 rolls out at around 1.68". You might want to start out a couple teeth lower than that to see how the motor reacts.
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:37 PM   #6820
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change your ball joint to the outer rear upright and use the inner shock tower holes (the middle row) also use a silver sping in the rear and gold in the front.

if push comes to shove try mounting your shocks in the inner hole to give more corner bite.

try one thing at a time!!

1. outer mouting hole on rear upright(longer tie-rods)
2. silver rear, gold front. (best combo for rubber racing/bashing)
3. inner holes on shock tower. the middle row of holes. (longer tie-rod)
4. inner hole mouting for shockes.
5. MAYBE camber is wrong. bring your comber in.
6. ride hieght. maybe you have to much sway so its givin up on traction?



Quote:
Originally Posted by markg View Post
LATC3 - On my TC5R if I get on power coming out of a corner the rear end immediately spins out. I'm trying to get this worked out, but am not having much luck. Hopefully this weekends time att he truck will yield better results, as I lose so much time coming out of corners its not worth trying to race yet.

loctite man it works so good for me. but if you ever wana loosin it. put heat to it and it loosins well
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:16 PM   #6821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg View Post
LATC3 - Your experrience is much different than mine. One my TC5R if I get on power coming out of a corner the rear end immediately spins out. I'm trying to get this worked out, but am not having much luck. Hopefully this weekends time att he truck will yield better results, as I lose so much time coming out of corners its not worth trying to race yet. I'v noticed that the front spool/diff loosens during every run, so ordered the front spool in an effort to have the care driven equally on both ends. Will also try stiffer shocks in the rear, and possibly laying the rear shocks down a little.

Apparently I'm not the only one experiencing this problem, as there is a thread on the ae discussion forum also. Cant wait to find a solution to this problem, as otherwise the car seems to run great!
Ok, your going the wrong way. You need the weight to transfer back to the rear to get traction. Softer springs and/or more up right shocks will add forward traction witch is whats missing from your car. Thats why it spins when you hit the gas.

I just ran into this last weekend. I took the spool out and put the diff in and it didnt help. I tried moving the rear arm forward to add traction. It helped but felt funny so I put it back. I noticed a tc5 in mod that was glued. I checked the car out and he had green springs all the way around. I put silver in frt and green in rear. Bam, glued coming out of the corners. I needed a touch more off power steering but didnt notice till the main and it was too late. Before I go race again I will put green in frt also.

I am running the stock tc5r setup with diff and silver in frt and green in rear. 1 deg camber frt with 1.5 rear. Yes I still have the sway bars on. I tried with out them and the car rolled over too much at speed so I hooked them back up. Might try the thin bar in front next time out. I added 1mm more drop in the front (more down travel) so that it will transfer more weight to the rear under power. The only other thing is I am running the front belt 1 notch tighter then rear so that I know the front will pull before the rear.

95% of this car is springs and oil. The other adjustments are just fine tuning. No matter how many or how drastic the change.

Hope this helps
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:59 PM   #6822
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i had my tc3's VERY hooked up with coppers in the rear and silver in the front.

i Guess its the same with the tc5 since green in the rear and silver in the front.

hey, sisnce you have issues with the silver spinges might wana use gold in the front and green in the rear?

i thought about the whole springe/oil issue but there's other ways to make a car hang in the corners my increasing traction with the rear tie-ride setups.
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:32 AM   #6823
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Does anyone know a good place to get a P-Dub bumper for the TC5

Schmucher has them but shipping is $10 and i feel thats crazy

Thanks for any help

Tom
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Old 08-07-2008, 01:53 AM   #6824
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Quote:
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Just get the "hard" suspension components...A Arms, knuckles, hubs and castor blocks. The F uses the same chassis as the standard TC5 kit. It's the R version that uses a different Chassis and Top Deck (ITF).
i thought the f had 3mm bottom and top decks and the standard had 2.5mm top and bottom
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Old 08-07-2008, 01:59 AM   #6825
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i thought the f had 3mm bottom and top decks and the standard had 2.5mm top and bottom
The standard is 2.5mm, the ITF is 2.0mm. The car is plenty stiff with the 2.5mm stuff, there is no need for 3.0mm carbon chassis really.

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