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Old 06-24-2008, 08:40 AM   #6256
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
The big issue with under the top deck and from under the car is depending on how your motor is rotated the set screw and the flat spot on the rotor for the pinion dont always want to line up.

Just look at the car from the motor side. You should have the motor's end bell facing you. Front of the car is to the left, and rear to the right.

Just turn the pinion on the motor untill the set screw is pointing towards the left or front side as well. You can hold it there if needed. Then just take your 1.5mm hex driver and insert it into the set screw and it comes right out. The driver should be paralel to the top deck and slightly under it, if you know what I mean. Works for me everytime and its as easy as any other car. No need to remove top deck or motor or anything.

Another very easy option is to get at the pinion from the bottom of the car. Turn the car upside down and there's an 8x10mm rectangular cutout right under the pinion gear on the CF lower chassis. From there you got plenty of room to get the pinion and remove it easily. Just hold the spur gear and rotate it till its lined up and hold it there and use the other hand to hold the driver and unscrew the set screw.

Last edited by yyhayyim; 06-24-2008 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:42 AM   #6257
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About the bearings: the 6X10 bearing are 6x10x3 or 4mm? Might try other manufacturers bearings but need to know the right measurements. Dont know them off hand.
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:57 AM   #6258
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Great showing by team AE once more at the ROAR asphalt Nats...

Congrats to Rick Howart for a great show and getting 2nd over all, and Ryan Cavalieri in 6th overall, and Mr. Torikka in 8th over all.
Thank you. The cars were very consistent and easy to drive although I wish we could have been a bit faster.

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congrats to bob for making the show

Also congrats to rick for his great performance in mod rubber... Worlds are comming up son and its very nice to see your game step up big time just in time for worlds..

Rick can you let me know if you ran lipos and who else did in mod ?

Also what lipo charger was that in your pits ?
Thank you. We are working on some new ideas for the Worlds so we can step up the performance a little. In Modified, I used LiPo as well as David Jun, Tommi Torikka, Kyle Skidmore, and Keven Hebert. All used the Reedy 5000 Pro. Keven Hebert finished second in Super Stock using LiPo.

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Nice running today Rick Hohwart!!
Thank you.

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i hope associated wins at the worlds this year !!! good luck rick h.
Thanks! I think we have a pretty good shot and a great team of drivers attending who all work well together and have a lot of fun. We don't trash talk or degrade our teammates like other teams do.

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Congrats to Rick and the rest of the team on the great results at the ROAR nationals!

Rick - will your setup/s be posted on the AE site or anything? One other question - just looked over the Reedy Race setup, and it seems a LOT softer than most of the other setups (I tend to run around gold/blue springs outdoors) - was the grip just very low or was there some other factor that led you onto this setup?? Have you tried it on any other tracks (or would you expect it not to work at other places/with other tires?)

Many thanks for any info

Oli
UK
Thank you. The setup for the Reedy Race was very soft. The traction was very low so it seemed like the best way to get grip and it did in fact work very well. I started with this setup at the Nats last week and it was just OK. I made many changes without a lot of difference and ended up with something different although in the end I think the Reedy Race setup would have been just as good. The setup will be posted as soon as we can get it on the site.
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:16 PM   #6259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
Just look at the car from the motor side. You should have the motor's end bell facing you. Front of the car is to the left, and rear to the right.

Just turn the pinion on the motor untill the set screw is pointing towards the left or front side as well. You can hold it there if needed. Then just take your 1.5mm hex driver and insert it into the set screw and it comes right out. The driver should be paralel to the top deck and slightly under it, if you know what I mean. Works for me everytime and its as easy as any other car. No need to remove top deck or motor or anything.

Another very easy option is to get at the pinion from the bottom of the car. Turn the car upside down and there's an 8x10mm rectangular cutout right under the pinion gear on the CF lower chassis. From there you got plenty of room to get the pinion and remove it easily. Just hold the spur gear and rotate it till its lined up and hold it there and use the other hand to hold the driver and unscrew the set screw.
The problem isnt getting the pinion off. Its getting it back on. I dont know about your brushless motors by the magnets in most of mine are so string the rotor doesnt want to stay where i put it. So depending on how I have the motor in the car the flat part doesnt always line up in a direction Im trying to put the set screw. Sometimes at 45 degrees either way from where Im trying. Hopefully that makes sense. Im right with you on how to remove it.
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:07 PM   #6260
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
The problem isnt getting the pinion off. Its getting it back on. I dont know about your brushless motors by the magnets in most of mine are so string the rotor doesnt want to stay where i put it. So depending on how I have the motor in the car the flat part doesnt always line up in a direction Im trying to put the set screw. Sometimes at 45 degrees either way from where Im trying. Hopefully that makes sense. Im right with you on how to remove it.
I see...well a very easy way to line it up perfectly where ever you want is:

tighten the set screw on the pinion so that you slide it on the motor shaft and it slides in snug on the flat spot. This you can easily from the battery side, the right side of the chassis. once its on, although it will slide back and forth a bit on the shaft, it will not rotate since the set screw on the flat spot will not let it, even though its not tight. So all you do next is with one hand hold the spur gear and use the spur gear- rotate it forward or backwards, and the pinion will move as well, and this way thru the spur gear it will move smoothly and exactly where you need it to be; once you have the position set just hold on to the spur and with your other free hand get the driver to the set screw and tighten it. It works great and extremely easy. Just as easy as any other car, guaranteed.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:35 PM   #6261
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We will just have to agree to disagree Ive had several cars where it was easier. Its an awesome car though and the pinion gear issue is minor.
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:22 PM   #6262
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TC5R is in stock over at Stormerhobbies.com incase anyone was looking for one!
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:29 PM   #6263
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Rick,
Great job at the Nats. I hope this wasn't asked before, but the specs on the TC5R state that the chassis and upper deck are 2mm thick. I believe that the current ITF chassis and upper deck are 2.5mm. If this is correct, do you have the new chassis and upper deck part numbers? Are they available yet?
Thanks
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:17 PM   #6264
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I believe that the current ITF chassis and upper deck are 2.5mm. If this is correct, do you have the new chassis and upper deck part numbers? Are they available yet?
Thanks
The stock original chassis is 2.5mm, and the ITF is 2.0mm. The new version R should be the same chassis as the ITF at 2.0mm as I understand it.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:15 AM   #6265
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I tried searching this thread but couldn't find the answer to this . . .

I won a TC5 in a raffle and as I was building it I realized there were three sets of instructions pertaining to ubilding the shocks. The manual, a paper adendum, and another set of instructions in the VCS2 bag. I was also missing the 2 4 mm shims for the layshaft and the diff fences that are to be glued on. The box was open when I got it so I am not certain what is factory, and what might have been scavenged and then "replaced". Anyway, one set of the directiosn for the shocks insisted that I use nothing less than a .090" spacer on the shock shaft outside the shock betwen the body and the spring perch to limit how far the piston plunges into the body. I built the shocks this way and it seems to limit the pistons movement up before the chassis hits the ground. Any other tips or help with the shocks would be appreciated
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Old 06-25-2008, 02:12 AM   #6266
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If I recall correctly, some people who got the first batch of cars reported missing a piece or two from time to time. Maybe that has something to do with the missing parts? As for the shocks, I just built mine according to the manual and I dont remember having to add any limiters or anything like that. Seems to me that having a spacer there would really upset the car on a rough track.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:34 AM   #6267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revrace View Post
Rick,
Great job at the Nats. I hope this wasn't asked before, but the specs on the TC5R state that the chassis and upper deck are 2mm thick. I believe that the current ITF chassis and upper deck are 2.5mm. If this is correct, do you have the new chassis and upper deck part numbers? Are they available yet?
Thanks
Stock TC5 lower chassis and top deck are 2.5mm

ITF chassis and top deck are 2.0mm

TC5R comes with the ITF 2mm lower chassis and ITF 2mm top deck
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:07 AM   #6268
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I tried searching this thread but couldn't find the answer to this . . .

I won a TC5 in a raffle and as I was building it I realized there were three sets of instructions pertaining to ubilding the shocks. The manual, a paper adendum, and another set of instructions in the VCS2 bag. I was also missing the 2 4 mm shims for the layshaft and the diff fences that are to be glued on. The box was open when I got it so I am not certain what is factory, and what might have been scavenged and then "replaced". Anyway, one set of the directiosn for the shocks insisted that I use nothing less than a .090" spacer on the shock shaft outside the shock betwen the body and the spring perch to limit how far the piston plunges into the body. I built the shocks this way and it seems to limit the pistons movement up before the chassis hits the ground. Any other tips or help with the shocks would be appreciated
No need for the .090" spacers. These were for the TC4 schocks that had longer shafts. The limiters were installed to maintain volume balance with the bladder size. The TC5 gold shafts are shorter to compensate for this already so no need for the limiters.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:21 AM   #6269
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Thanks to everyone for their help. It seems that this is the only thread that has really given me any responses.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:56 AM   #6270
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Anyone using the Team Orion 10.5 motor? What gearing are you using? I just got one of the original TC5 kits. What is the size of spur it comes with 72 or 87? I was going to try 32t pinion.
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