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Old 06-22-2008, 06:15 PM   #6241
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Originally Posted by BDK View Post
Hey guys, my dad and I have started racing a few months ago, and we're ready to step up to a competative car. Does anyone here have any pro's and con's to till me about the car listed in this thread? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
Pros:
- Usually easy to get parts
- Parts are reasonably priced relative to other cars (all rc car parts are overpriced)
- With the p-dub bumper the car is very durable. In 6 months of running the car in super stock Ive actually never broken a part (except blades). Ive worn parts out but not broken any
- Fits just about any lipo
- More affordable then a lot of cars
- Its Team Associated so they will likely support the car for a long time

Cons:
- Pinion is difficult to change
- Shocks arent the greatest, lots of people have difficulty with them leaking
- Lots of people seem to melt the plastic outdrives on the diffs, if you switch to aluminum the blades tend to break easily.
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:42 PM   #6242
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to add to or8itals post ... yes parts for the tc5 are available through many shops and online through tower hobbies, stormer, and a few others, they now have a tc5r asphalt version which you won't need any other hop ups for it. just pick up a couple extra parts for spares and you're good to go. i would recommend starting with a 17.5 or 13.5 class and work up to mod if you want, also shop around you might find people selling off they're stuff at great prices, its a good way to get cars parts and electronics at cheap prices! good luck guys.
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Old 06-23-2008, 02:35 AM   #6243
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Just wanna react on or8ital.

The Pinions are really horrible, that's true. I'm driving "RC Devil" low drag belts and then you can pull the belt away to change 35 pinions (48DP for stock racing). That will help a bit. But yes, it's a pain in the ass.

But the shocks are superb I think. I've used some Asso Green Slime and never had any problem with that. Not leeking, no Air, nothing, just as great as Tamiya dempers. Even when I change Oil (to set-up) there is still nothing wrong with them. Maybe try that. My Dutch Team mate has the same "superb" shocks...

Melting down plastic Diff Output's is because the diff slips. Normally i'm driving a 19T motor, then the plastic versions are super. When i'm driving modified I'm make sure my Diff is much thighter. Just as thight that the little nu almoste snaps!!! then there is no problem. My Team mate is driving at the Kit Diff for about a year now, and only modified with 4.0 and 3.5T motors. Make Sure you tighten the diff really hard! I think the plastic's are better then the aluminium because the wear less. When de blades snap, your alumiun outputs are wrecked.

Also a thing I noticed is the bumpsteer of the car. Standart outy of the box it's having a bit bumpster. But by putting a 1.5mm shim at the steer hub underneed the link this will be taken away.

For now I think the TC5(R) is a really good car, that drive's pretty well!!!

Greetings,

Robert Krens
Team Thunder Tiger Netherlands
Team Vapextech
Team High Velocity
Airbrush-Attack.com factory driver
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:50 AM   #6244
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To clarify my shock comment above. Ive actually not had any trouble with my shocks. However building them is a bit of a pain. If I had my preference I would prefer Tamiya style shocks. That said they do the job.
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:16 AM   #6245
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TC5 Shocks...they are really good. As smooth as the best of them. However, they do need be assembled correctly, and they are a bit tricky at first, because of the unusual bladder it comes with. But once you get them right, they are really good.
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:43 AM   #6246
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The plastic piece is kind of hard to push into the shock which has caused a few problems with the shocks leaking. Once it is seated you should be ok.
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Old 06-23-2008, 01:52 PM   #6247
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I am a new TC5 owner. What parts should I keep in my parts bin?
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Old 06-23-2008, 02:35 PM   #6248
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hey revo, i recommend 4 and 6 degree hub carriers, steering blocks, arms and rear hub carriers. on the rear hub carriers they offer 0, 0.5 and 1 degree so choose the one you want. the spur gear hub is plastic and it will wear out after awhile so get one just in case. and last is 6x10mm bearings, there are 2 in each hub so have 8 as spares cause they will get crunchy. good luck bro.
yohan, i'm going to get my mazdaspeed 6 body waxed so watch out it will be 1tenth faster now
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Old 06-23-2008, 03:43 PM   #6249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Pros:
- Usually easy to get parts
- Parts are reasonably priced relative to other cars (all rc car parts are overpriced)
- With the p-dub bumper the car is very durable. In 6 months of running the car in super stock Ive actually never broken a part (except blades). Ive worn parts out but not broken any
- Fits just about any lipo
- More affordable then a lot of cars
- Its Team Associated so they will likely support the car for a long time

Cons:
- Pinion is difficult to change
- Shocks arent the greatest, lots of people have difficulty with them leaking
- Lots of people seem to melt the plastic outdrives on the diffs, if you switch to aluminum the blades tend to break easily.
On the cons you need to add the wheel bearings. Even if you stay off the boards they wear very quickly. Hit any boards and you replace them automatically. One brush on he boards and the bearing is junk. It is the weak point of the car in my opinion.

On the pinions if you rotate the pinion grub screw down toward the chassis there is a slot where you can fit the driver. All you need to do is loosen the motor, slide it away from the spur so you have some play in the belt and the pinion should not be that hard to take off and replace. I have replaced 47 to 49 tooth 64p pinions without any trouble.
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Old 06-23-2008, 03:47 PM   #6250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic31 View Post
hey revo, i recommend 4 and 6 degree hub carriers, steering blocks, arms and rear hub carriers. on the rear hub carriers they offer 0, 0.5 and 1 degree so choose the one you want. the spur gear hub is plastic and it will wear out after awhile so get one just in case. and last is 6x10mm bearings, there are 2 in each hub so have 8 as spares cause they will get crunchy. good luck bro.
yohan, i'm going to get my mazdaspeed 6 body waxed so watch out it will be 1tenth faster now
I would also suggest getting an extra set of wheel base shims. If you the hinge pin holder moves back enough and the hinge pin drops out you may never find those shims on the track (spoken from experience). It will be the 10 cent part that ruins your day.
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:17 PM   #6251
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i hope associated wins at the worlds this year !!! good luck rick h.
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:47 PM   #6252
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The easiest way to get the pinion on and off is to pull the whole motor mount out. It's only 3 screws, and your life will be much easier
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:55 AM   #6253
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Congrats to Rick and the rest of the team on the great results at the ROAR nationals!

Rick - will your setup/s be posted on the AE site or anything? One other question - just looked over the Reedy Race setup, and it seems a LOT softer than most of the other setups (I tend to run around gold/blue springs outdoors) - was the grip just very low or was there some other factor that led you onto this setup?? Have you tried it on any other tracks (or would you expect it not to work at other places/with other tires?)

Many thanks for any info

Oli
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:11 AM   #6254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
The easiest way to get the pinion on and off is to pull the whole motor mount out. It's only 3 screws, and your life will be much easier
Actually, there's an even easier way. No need to remove any screws or the motor at all. Just rotate the pinion set screw on the motor shaft so that it points towards the front of the car, towards the bumper. Then just take your 1.5mm driver and insert it under the top deck into the set screw and presto: its out. Just push out the pinion and that's it.
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:37 AM   #6255
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The big issue with under the top deck and from under the car is depending on how your motor is rotated the set screw and the flat spot on the rotor for the pinion dont always want to line up.
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