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Old 06-04-2008, 07:50 PM   #6121
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Originally Posted by Babalu View Post
Do we know if these new style cam holders come in the soon to be released TC5R and TC5F kits? And......Do you think the release date of the new kits for mid June (Tower site) is accurate?

By the way all the information on this thread is great. Thanks to all you posters.
Bob

I did take a look at the tc5r and tc5f instruction manual online and they did show the new cams. You can see it in the picture cause the slots for adjusting the tightness of the belt cover almost half the cam holder.

why not just unscrew the motor mount when changing pinion gears... Its 3 screws and it comes out.
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Old 06-05-2008, 01:52 PM   #6122
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I would like to make some suggestions and maybe team drivers can relay it to the higher ups.

Diff rebuild kits SHOULD include the black plastic nut holder. If we have aluminum outdrives and we want to rebuild them, we have no option but to buy the plastic outdrives as well just for these plastic nut holders.

One other thing is QC. I bought steering blocks the other day and instead of having one left block and one right block, I got 2 left blocks. I understand if one or two packs are mismatched so I wasn't too ticked off. However I bought a CVA rebuild pack and again something was wrong with it. Instead of 4 pins that it is suppose to come with it only had 3.

Thanks for reading and hopefully there will be some changes
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:41 PM   #6123
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Default rubber o rings

can someone plz tell me wat the o rings do how does it efect the car if it adds rear bite im gona doit plzz help got ibig club race sunday
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:50 PM   #6124
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the o rings will add more flexx to the chassis which will make ore rear grip
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Old 06-07-2008, 12:47 AM   #6125
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
We need to know EXACTLY what motor your running. A blue motor doesnt tell us anything.

DK
just a note, try to read the posts before posting a little better next time...i gave a much better description of what teck was trying to say (including exactly what motor he was running).

The 6.26 gearing he is at was actually recommended by the guys at the track that also run blue-can (this commonly translates to co27, tell me of other blue cans people talk about for brushed racing). I guess the main option at this point is back off the gearing to see if the motor temp cools down and see how the car runs? What if he runs it and gets a good temp but it just doesnt put out the speed its supposed to? thanks for any help
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Old 06-07-2008, 01:40 AM   #6126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
Rick can you email me your setup from the reedy race.

Or if one of you guys who asked for the setup from rick and got it you can send it to me .

thanks

[email protected]
Hello Rick and others.

Can you email me the setup from the reedy race.


Thanks

Last edited by S_fender; 07-09-2009 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 06-07-2008, 04:40 AM   #6127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
just a note, try to read the posts before posting a little better next time...i gave a much better description of what teck was trying to say (including exactly what motor he was running).

The 6.26 gearing he is at was actually recommended by the guys at the track that also run blue-can (this commonly translates to co27, tell me of other blue cans people talk about for brushed racing).
I must of missed your post on what was going on. Sorry.
On a side note....doesnt LRP make a blue can brushless motor? I know I have had a couple of blue can motors over the years that run from 12 turn to 14 turn brushed.

Again, sorry for not reading everybodys posts

DK
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Old 06-07-2008, 07:25 AM   #6128
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Some one was asking about sway bars. For giggles I ran my car out front and put it threw a imaginary(sp?) switch back to test the traction. The rear was all over the place. Yes I was on power doing it. I hooked up the thin sway bar on the rear and ran threw the same test. The rear was almost planted and for sure way better. It didnt swing the rear out on the 2nd or 3rd corner like with no bar.

In all my old cars a rear sway bar would free up the rear on power. Seems to be backwards on this car. Im sure theres a mile long list of reason of why its doing this but, right off the bat I am thinking it keeps the rear of the chasis from rolling and over loading the tire but the soft rear springs still allow weight transfer to the rear for forward traction. Or possibly my oil is too thick and not allowing the rear to transfer over to the other side fast enough to get bite?

Either way, if your on the gas and your rear is sliding out, try a thin bar in back and see if you like it. I know I will be playing with them at the track next time Im there.

Hope this helps.
DK
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:27 PM   #6129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I must of missed your post on what was going on. Sorry.
On a side note....doesnt LRP make a blue can brushless motor? I know I have had a couple of blue can motors over the years that run from 12 turn to 14 turn brushed.

Again, sorry for not reading everybodys posts

DK

its cool. As far as the brushless stuff go i didnt know LRP made blue can brushless motors but if my bro was talkin about brushless im sure he woulda said so lol. I figure that 6.26 gearing isnt right for brushless either if that was the case (i run at 4.5 with my 13.5). Regardless,ill have him back off on the pinion a little and see how his speed looks in regards to motor temp. Hopefully it doesnt get too slow lol
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:46 PM   #6130
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Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
.....why not just unscrew the motor mount when changing pinion gears... Its 3 screws and it comes out.
Exactly, and after you do it a couple times its all of about a 1 minute job to get the motor out. Easiest way to change pinions IMO.
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Old 06-07-2008, 03:07 PM   #6131
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my motor covers the third screw. 100/39 is how its geared right now.

DK
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Old 06-07-2008, 06:05 PM   #6132
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
my motor covers the third screw. 100/39 is how its geared right now.
DK
You should still be able to take the bottom 2 out first, then as you loosen the top screw pull the mount away from the bulhead to remove, and leave the screw trapped between.

In fact some of the AE team guys at NATS last year I saw left the upper screw out completely to get a bit more flex from chassis.
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Old 06-07-2008, 06:35 PM   #6133
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yep, its a pain sometimes to change out pinions but c'mon every car has something about it that is a pain in da butt, we deal with it i guess. i remember reading once that someone was saying how tamiya cars suck because they require so much shimming in the suspension but in reality many cars will require it one way or another and of course there are the lucky ones that dont. i really like the simplicity of the tc5 and room i look forward to seeing this cars progression, although the tam 416 is calling my name

hey verndog, i like your product its nice, maybe one day u can hear me out on a vertical ballstud setup i had in mind
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Old 06-07-2008, 07:07 PM   #6134
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Originally Posted by sonic31 View Post
yep, its a pain sometimes to change out pinions but c'mon every car has something about it that is a pain in da butt, we deal with it i guess. i remember reading once that someone was saying how tamiya cars suck because they require so much shimming in the suspension but in reality many cars will require it one way or another and of course there are the lucky ones that dont. i really like the simplicity of the tc5 and room i look forward to seeing this cars progression, although the tam 416 is calling my name

hey verndog, i like your product its nice, maybe one day u can hear me out on a vertical ballstud setup i had in mind
TRF416/ Serpent S400, same thing

But the S400 is available now and has parts available in US
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:50 AM   #6135
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oye yohan, get out of here you dont have your tc5 anymore sellout !!! s400 my arse, a mi no me gusta la serpienteeeeeeeeeee.
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