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Old 05-19-2008, 10:26 AM   #5971
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Any tips for keeping the CVD blades from breaking and eating my outdrives or would I be better off with a 3rd party spool that doesnt require them (and going back to the carbon outdrives in the rear?).
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:40 AM   #5972
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Yeah Im going to get one here shortly, I was in the middle of of putting the TC5 Rubber kit setup on, but I'm going back to the RC setup. As of right now Im on a medium grip surface, semi-prepped parking lot so some of the steering is a bit much for us. How did you get 5 degrees when using the 6 degree blocks?
Using a #2 and #3 suspension mount angles the entire suspension assembly by one degree, reducing your caster by this amount. So When you run the 4 degree blocks you are actually riunning 3 degrees caster. Six degree blocks give you 5 degrees caster, etc.

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Any tips for keeping the CVD blades from breaking and eating my outdrives or would I be better off with a 3rd party spool that doesnt require them (and going back to the carbon outdrives in the rear?).
TC5 R and F will come with what we call a "slipper spool" option. This is a standard differential that can be transformed into a sppol by replacing the diff rings with slipper spool pads (they look like mini off-road slipper pads) and removing the the main diff balls and the thrust diff balls. The resulting unit, when tightened completely, will not slip, but will give just enough so that the blades do not break.

The slipper spool pads are part #31173 and are in stock. When using these, the diff nut must be set very tight with loctite to be sure it does not loosen.
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:48 AM   #5973
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Thanks Rick! Your support is awesome.
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:34 AM   #5974
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Using a #2 and #3 suspension mount angles the entire suspension assembly by one degree, reducing your caster by this amount. So When you run the 4 degree blocks you are actually riunning 3 degrees caster. Six degree blocks give you 5 degrees caster, etc.

Ahh ok, I think Ryan runs 3s all around, so I guess he runs 5 total as well. Going to your changes, how did that affect the car?
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Old 05-19-2008, 12:57 PM   #5975
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Have the new TC5 kits shipped yet? I'm curious when they will be showing up hobby shops.

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2008, 01:17 PM   #5976
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Ahh ok, I think Ryan runs 3s all around, so I guess he runs 5 total as well. Going to your changes, how did that affect the car?
Six degree caster blocks gave the car more steering for sure. But going to the Speed body made the biggest change.

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Have the new TC5 kits shipped yet? I'm curious when they will be showing up hobby shops.

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They have not yet been shipped and i am ot sure when they will. I think the project is on schedule though.
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:05 PM   #5977
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I have a question about the rear hubs.............if you put a 2mm shim on the arm mount and use a 1deg hub you get 3, but what if you ran a 3mm shim on the arm and a 0 deg hub to get 3? Is there any difference between the two or just different ways to get the same result?
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:09 PM   #5978
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I am curious about belt tension, what effects will it have on the car for example having a looser front belt and tight rear belt or vice versa?
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:30 PM   #5979
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I have a question about the rear hubs.............if you put a 2mm shim on the arm mount and use a 1deg hub you get 3, but what if you ran a 3mm shim on the arm and a 0 deg hub to get 3? Is there any difference between the two or just different ways to get the same result?
Good question, have always wondered that.
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Old 05-19-2008, 05:59 PM   #5980
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With carpet, Brian Jucha (team AE) told me that adding toe at the hub would make the car more aggressive. I have tried this, and I feel the same way. I think having the arms straighter, by virtue of less toe at the hinge pin, makes the weight dump onto the nose more. The opposite is also true when running all the toe at the hinge pin. Most of the rubber setups I have looked at have all hinge pin toe in.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:03 PM   #5981
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I have noticed that the new rubber and foam cam holders have more adjustments for the belt tension then the old cam holders, is this for a reason???
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:05 PM   #5982
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Quote:
Most of the rubber setups I have looked at have all hinge pin toe in.
So should you use the hubs and not use the shims except for tweaking the setup slightly??
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:14 PM   #5983
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So should you use the hubs and not use the shims except for tweaking the setup slightly??
I think opposite, run 0* hubs and run shims at the bulkhead.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:49 PM   #5984
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I am curious about belt tension, what effects will it have on the car for example having a looser front belt and tight rear belt or vice versa?
From my testing, basicly a tighter belt will help transfer power right out of the hole and a loser belt would run better on top. Small track tighter belt, bigger track loser belt. I run them so theres only a little drag when turning the wheels by hand and they dont skip, helps with straitaways and smooth out the bottom end.

An easyer way to under stand rear toe is, its more effective at the arm then the hub.
3 deg on the arm doesnt rotate enough
2.5 degs it rotates to much
2 deg on arm and 1 deg on hub, right in the middle.

Clear as mud ?

DK
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:30 PM   #5985
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From my testing, basicly a tighter belt will help transfer power right out of the hole and a loser belt would run better on top. Small track tighter belt, bigger track loser belt. I run them so theres only a little drag when turning the wheels by hand and they dont skip, helps with straitaways and smooth out the bottom end.

An easyer way to under stand rear toe is, its more effective at the arm then the hub.
3 deg on the arm doesnt rotate enough
2.5 degs it rotates to much
2 deg on arm and 1 deg on hub, right in the middle.

Clear as mud ?

DK
So basically with 2* arm and 1* hub you will have more turn in and less off compared to just 3* at the arm?
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