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Old 05-17-2008, 07:21 PM   #5956
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Default toe shims

concerning these toe shims, please guys let me know the thickness of 1, 1.5 and 2 shims.......

I just got a car borrowed from a friend and shims of 1.3mm and 1.7mm are all that came with the car, so I'm little confused........
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:54 AM   #5957
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1.0 Deg - 0.033in = 0.9mm
1.5 Deg - 0.050in = 1.3mm
2.0 Deg - 0.066in = 1.7mm

Hope that helps
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Old 05-18-2008, 05:20 AM   #5958
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Im using 2mm blue washers on there, I put .5 hubs on there so we will see if that helps. I dont have a tweak station yet.

In that case.....I would check the hinge pins. The tc3 was notorious for bending them and I think the tc5 runs the same size pins.

The tweak station will tell you tweak but thats it. Useless when it comes to alignment.

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Old 05-18-2008, 06:23 PM   #5959
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Ok I fixed my toe issue, apparently those little adjustment deals that have the * ** *** on them had a metal washer bent or something, a new one corrected it.

Now on to my handling issues. I am running Ryan Cavs setup, except for 6* caster up front (4 deg seems way too twitchy for our track) and -2.5* rear toe until I get another pair of 1 deg ones (or I find mine in the trash ) and also 1 deg toe out up front.

Anyway today my car was pretty good, but the ends kept swapping. Track temp was 50 C most of the day due to a heat wave, so I ran 40s. Anyway, my friend has the same car with Ryan Cs setup, and he can take the high speed sweeper at high speed and its stuck, if I do it the car instantly wants to spin out. I put on a front sway (thinnest) and it helped the car a lot, but I still cant get through the sweeper like him or anyone else. The car just wants to spin out. The funny thing is, in the low speed sections it feels GREAT, while his feels a little loose and rear end happy. What can I do to fix this?

Oh yerah he runs a Speed 6, I run this

http://www.rcworld.co.kr/admin/product/1468.jpg
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Last edited by K_King; 05-18-2008 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 05-18-2008, 06:28 PM   #5960
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Two question from the new guy!
1) what is used for the hex spacing on the setups??
2) what are most using for a battery hold down?? I have tried the factory strap and it seems to mess with the car handling from time to time. I have tried velcro straps and they seem to rip or rub through.
Thanks for the help
Tim
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Old 05-18-2008, 06:34 PM   #5961
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Originally Posted by katfish317 View Post
Two question from the new guy!
1) what is used for the hex spacing on the setups??
2) what are most using for a battery hold down?? I have tried the factory strap and it seems to mess with the car handling from time to time. I have tried velcro straps and they seem to rip or rub through.
Thanks for the help
Tim
1) spaces out the wheels to make the car wider and add stability. They ave .25mm shims there between the pin and bearing.
2) find some tape that has fibers in it. Search on Speetech for stuff made by Xenon.
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Old 05-18-2008, 07:31 PM   #5962
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Ok I fixed my toe issue, apparently those little adjustment deals that have the * ** *** on them had a metal washer bent or something, a new one corrected it.

Now on to my handling issues. I am running Ryan Cavs setup, except for 6* caster up front (4 deg seems way too twitchy for our track) and -2.5* rear toe until I get another pair of 1 deg ones (or I find mine in the trash ) and also 1 deg toe out up front.

Anyway today my car was pretty good, but the ends kept swapping. Track temp was 50 C most of the day due to a heat wave, so I ran 40s. Anyway, my friend has the same car with Ryan Cs setup, and he can take the high speed sweeper at high speed and its stuck, if I do it the car instantly wants to spin out. I put on a front sway (thinnest) and it helped the car a lot, but I still cant get through the sweeper like him or anyone else. The car just wants to spin out. The funny thing is, in the low speed sections it feels GREAT, while his feels a little loose and rear end happy. What can I do to fix this?

Oh yerah he runs a Speed 6, I run this

http://www.rcworld.co.kr/admin/product/1468.jpg
Add more wing. You should be able to push it back some. If not then get a new wing and dont cut it soo low.

Are you on power when it swaps ends or off power?? If your on power then you can push the rear arms forward to add onpower traction or push the front arm forward to kill some onpower steering. Could put the bigger sway bar on front to kill even more onpower steering. Theres a whole list of stuff that can nail the rear down.

DK
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:17 PM   #5963
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Originally Posted by katfish317 View Post
Two question from the new guy!
1) what is used for the hex spacing on the setups??
2) what are most using for a battery hold down?? I have tried the factory strap and it seems to mess with the car handling from time to time. I have tried velcro straps and they seem to rip or rub through.
Thanks for the help
Tim
The hex spacing are washers that are typically aftermarket at this point. They come in a few thicknesses and are basically just an aluminum disk that goes between the hex and wheel.
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:54 PM   #5964
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Add more wing. You should be able to push it back some. If not then get a new wing and dont cut it soo low.

Are you on power when it swaps ends or off power?? If your on power then you can push the rear arms forward to add onpower traction or push the front arm forward to kill some onpower steering. Could put the bigger sway bar on front to kill even more onpower steering. Theres a whole list of stuff that can nail the rear down.

DK
Im on power, I actually have to get off power a lot to make sure it doesnt swap ends on me, but I lose a lot of time. Does it seem odd that my car is 98% the same than his but he can mat it through the turn?
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:43 PM   #5965
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Now on to my handling issues. I am running Ryan Cavs setup, except for 6* caster up front (4 deg seems way too twitchy for our track) and -2.5* rear toe until I get another pair of 1 deg ones (or I find mine in the trash ) and also 1 deg toe out up front.
You have 6* caster and 2.5 rear toe, which are compounding each other. The extra caster will give more high speed steering, and less toe=less stability. Also, the -1 toe in front is adding to the twitchyness with 4* blocks. Going to the #2 position on the bellcrank can mellow out the steering as well.

So try 0 toe in front, or even a slight toe in, 4* caster, and 3* rear toe. You can use any type of shim to add rear toe as long as it fits a 3mm screw. Just use the same on both side, and remember...

quoted from Bigger Brother---

"1.0 Deg - 0.033in = 0.9mm
1.5 Deg - 0.050in = 1.3mm
2.0 Deg - 0.066in = 1.7mm

Hope that helps"
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:18 PM   #5966
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Thanks, Im going to try the stock rubber setup that AE posted, and then if I dont like that Im going back to the RC setup, unless theres one thats easier.

Should be interesting running sways front and back on this thing.
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:22 PM   #5967
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Im on power, I actually have to get off power a lot to make sure it doesnt swap ends on me, but I lose a lot of time. Does it seem odd that my car is 98% the same than his but he can mat it through the turn?
No. Not odd. Bodies are huge when it comes to handling. See if he would let you try his body for a run. Plus little stuff like diff tightness and shock oil level will change the way a car handles a bit also. your tweak could be off a touch to that side also.

At one time I thought I was joe racer and had two of the same car. I set them up 100% the same. Ran #1 car in first qual and #2 the second. Guess what? The cars were very diffrent in what they would do on the track. So much so that I took the best car and had to finish the race with it.

Oh, check that your tires didnt come lose from the rim. Have to check those rubbers every run. He could have a better setup station than you and can get that last 1/4 deg. Could be any number of things of why his works and your dont. I would bet 90% of it is body though.

DK
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:09 AM   #5968
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No. Not odd. Bodies are huge when it comes to handling. See if he would let you try his body for a run. Plus little stuff like diff tightness and shock oil level will change the way a car handles a bit also. your tweak could be off a touch to that side also.

At one time I thought I was joe racer and had two of the same car. I set them up 100% the same. Ran #1 car in first qual and #2 the second. Guess what? The cars were very diffrent in what they would do on the track. So much so that I took the best car and had to finish the race with it.

Oh, check that your tires didnt come lose from the rim. Have to check those rubbers every run. He could have a better setup station than you and can get that last 1/4 deg. Could be any number of things of why his works and your dont. I would bet 90% of it is body though.

DK
Thanks, I will eventually get a body, when I got this car nobody had a Mazda 6 in time for me to get the car running so I pretty much grabbed anything close.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:26 AM   #5969
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Thanks, Im going to try the stock rubber setup that AE posted, and then if I dont like that Im going back to the RC setup, unless theres one thats easier.

Should be interesting running sways front and back on this thing.
The body will probably make a bigger difference than any single chassis adjustment you make. This change alone could solve your problems

I just tested at Speedworld with RC's setup and it is pretty good. I did go to 6 degree caster blocks (for 5 degrees caster) and green/blue springs with swaybars.
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:24 AM   #5970
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The body will probably make a bigger difference than any single chassis adjustment you make. This change alone could solve your problems

I just tested at Speedworld with RC's setup and it is pretty good. I did go to 6 degree caster blocks (for 5 degrees caster) and green/blue springs with swaybars.
Yeah Im going to get one here shortly, I was in the middle of of putting the TC5 Rubber kit setup on, but I'm going back to the RC setup. As of right now Im on a medium grip surface, semi-prepped parking lot so some of the steering is a bit much for us. How did you get 5 degrees when using the 6 degree blocks?
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