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Old 03-31-2008, 01:00 PM   #5626
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Yep... I will use a dremel, but I thought if someone had a more adjustable motor mount, it would be better... I guess I need to find someone that can mill me one...
What FDR are you trying to get down to?
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Old 03-31-2008, 01:40 PM   #5627
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Hi all. This is a video of the last final in our track. Itīs difficult to say what car is mine because of the quality of the images. After all, we were fast

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYRRcPfpeUc

Whith an incredible exercise of viewing there is a car in white/black/slightpink.
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:30 PM   #5628
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Yep... I will use a dremel, but I thought if someone had a more adjustable motor mount, it would be better... I guess I need to find someone that can mill me one...

a 90/53 fits in with no mods (around a 3.5 FDR) with plenty of room for bigger pinions
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:39 PM   #5629
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yo sean whats up? just finished building mine and im gonna start with sean cocharans setup for stock. its on the ae website. also ygpm.
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:09 PM   #5630
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Robk,
When you push out the front arm mounts the 2 degrees, how do keep the bones end pins from binding on the alum. rings on the out drives. Am I doing something wrong or is there something I should be doing to get the bones farther in the out drives?
Thanks and God Bless
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:33 PM   #5631
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I know I have posted this before but has anyone figured out what is causing the wheel bearing to fail so much?

I have been very careful NOT to hit the boards so I am sure this is not the issue. I just got through running the Texas State Championships in Dallas and I literally replaced the outside wheel bearing after each run. This is kind of negating the whole parts are cheaper theory.

I am running the stock class with all hard parts, 3 degree toe in on rear, 0 degree in front. All 4 bearing seem to be crunchy after each run. Are the factory boys replacing bearing each run?

Btw this also causes me to replace ball cups more often because I have to keep popping them off to either replace the bearings or at least check them. Any help on this would be helpful.
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:02 PM   #5632
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just get some quality bearings like from boca or aps racing. the kit bearings are so so.
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:53 PM   #5633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
Robk,
When you push out the front arm mounts the 2 degrees, how do keep the bones end pins from binding on the alum. rings on the out drives. Am I doing something wrong or is there something I should be doing to get the bones farther in the out drives?
Thanks and God Bless
You can dremel down the ends of the pin very slightly. You should be able to get it flush with the diameter of the outdrive. I did that, and it made the binding a non issue. Going to the aluminum and bone setup also works if you gots the $$$.
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:57 PM   #5634
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Are you guys noticing a slight drag on the steering on the initial build? I've just about got mine done as of last night and it seems like the steering from side to side seems a little tight. Do you guys leave the screws that hold the steering post slightly loose or snug them down? I've got the servo servo setup exactly as the manual states.

Also...I'm using a Robinson Racing 64p spur and could only get 2 "shorter" screws to line up correctly to hold it on. Will it be ok using 2 instead of 3?
2 screws = ok. Are the screws on the steering knuckle really tight?
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:26 PM   #5635
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robk,
Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:14 PM   #5636
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
What FDR are you trying to get down to?
with 13.5 4.5
with 17.5 3.7

I have a 66T spur, but the motor mount does not allow enough adjustment to have this spur in the car...
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:16 PM   #5637
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
a 90/53 fits in with no mods (around a 3.5 FDR) with plenty of room for bigger pinions
I'm running 48P because I run outside and I hate when rocks get in the 64P and take me out of the run... 48P is more forgiving....
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:35 PM   #5638
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
What FDR are you trying to get down to?
Changing the pulley size would work too. One tooth bigger center and one tooth smaller front and rear would get us to 1.86 internal. Then a 66 spur, 35 pinion would get you to 3.5 final. Now we just need some one to make after market pulleys.
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Old 04-01-2008, 10:28 AM   #5639
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What part number should I look for from Acer or Boca for the outer wheel bearinigs. I cant find the 6x10x4 size on their website. Any help would be appreciated.

I have been having problems with the stock bearings as well.

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Old 04-01-2008, 10:47 AM   #5640
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
2 screws = ok. Are the screws on the steering knuckle really tight?
Robk...I'll check that out but they seemed really "free" when I was assembling them?

I'm shooting for a 4.44 FDR with a Novak 13.5 SS BL using a 100/45 64P running rubber tires on asphalt. Has anyone tried this combo and is it safer to go with a lower FDR with this motor?
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