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Old 03-21-2008, 07:04 AM   #5536
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Use Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime (Part #LXSF70) on your O-Rings it works wonders.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:24 AM   #5537
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Make sure that everything is seated in the bottom of the shock. It is a very tight fit and requires some extra force to get everything to seat.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:56 AM   #5538
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I have tried the green slime too and it didn't work on my shocks. I noticed in the manual that it just tells you to pull on the shock shaft to 'seat' all the parts. I noticed people at the local track using a tool to compress the parts inside the shock body. The tool was just a molded piece of plastic that had a shaft that resembled the thickness of the shock shaft with a piece of flat plastic that pushed against the shock internal components.

I purchased a new set of shock shafts and have yet to put them. I am thinking maybe they are scorned somewhere? I don't see any damage, but at this point I will try anything. It is only one shock out of the 4. I have replaced all the internal parts a couple times now. It is becoming frustrating.
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:06 AM   #5539
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That tool comes with the kit.
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:43 AM   #5540
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Originally Posted by cutjo3 View Post
I have tried the green slime too and it didn't work on my shocks. I noticed in the manual that it just tells you to pull on the shock shaft to 'seat' all the parts. I noticed people at the local track using a tool to compress the parts inside the shock body. The tool was just a molded piece of plastic that had a shaft that resembled the thickness of the shock shaft with a piece of flat plastic that pushed against the shock internal components.

I purchased a new set of shock shafts and have yet to put them. I am thinking maybe they are scorned somewhere? I don't see any damage, but at this point I will try anything. It is only one shock out of the 4. I have replaced all the internal parts a couple times now. It is becoming frustrating.
Same here...I;ve tried replacing the o-rings, and will try a double o-ring set up...I'll see what happens...I've rebuilt many shocks before and these have been the most anoying so far...
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Old 03-21-2008, 11:59 AM   #5541
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Make sure that everything is seated in the bottom of the shock. It is a very tight fit and requires some extra force to get everything to seat.
Thanks bro...it seems now the leaking of oil from the bottom has been cured. Now I'm having trouble adjusting rebound. For example, I'd like to set them to 30% rebound, but these shocks have no bleed holes on the caps. How do you adjust shock rebound on these shocks? On the Losi Type R shocks or the Schumacher MI3 shocks they have tiny bleeding holes on the shock caps, which lets excess oil out, and you can adjust rebound very easily.

With the TC5 shocks, there's no bleed holes, and I'm trying to figure out how to set shocks at around 50% rebound...Bleeding them its very triky, and maybe these shocks are adjusted with the blue rebound foams on the caps? How do you adjust rebound on the shocks?
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:06 PM   #5542
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That tool comes with the kit.
Yeah, I bought my TC5 used. I need to pick one of those up. I have looked at the molded tool kit that AE sells and don't remember seeing it in there. I will have to check again.

Thanks!
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Old 03-21-2008, 01:40 PM   #5543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutjo3 View Post
Yeah, I bought my TC5 used. I need to pick one of those up. I have looked at the molded tool kit that AE sells and don't remember seeing it in there. I will have to check again.

Thanks!
Shock Assembly Tool

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Old 03-21-2008, 03:19 PM   #5544
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Hello,

Try Stormerhobbies.com. They are located here in the states, and I think they ship Internationally. They appear to have everything your wanting and great prices. I have known the owner for 15 years and he's a great guy and fellow racer, like us.

Steve
Thanks Steve,

They don't use Paypal, but that's ok. And they have all in stock

Nuno
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:30 PM   #5545
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Generally, you have to control rebound by the amount of shaft in the shock as you assemble it and by bleeding the shock by loosening the cap.

I try to always have the shaft almost completely in the shock. Usually, putting the bladder on first helps to get the shock close as well, by displacing excess oil.

A lot of times, you have to slightly loosen the cap, as you push in the shaft, to let some oil out and get the rebound the way you want it. It can be frustrating, but keeping fresh bladders in the car makes this a lot easier.
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:36 PM   #5546
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Default Diff problem

Hello again,

Today i've made 12 minutes x 8 times = 96 minutes, a hour and half, with the TC5

The problem that i have with the TC5 is that after each run i have to tighten the front diff, because it end always to loose...i run the front diff about -1/8 turn or less.

Is this normal? When i'm working on the diff the phrase ".. the diffs are something to be lusted after..." that XRC-Cars Mag said just comes up to my mind

Thanks
Nuno

Last edited by Nalves; 03-21-2008 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:06 PM   #5547
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
Generally, you have to control rebound by the amount of shaft in the shock as you assemble it and by bleeding the shock by loosening the cap.

I try to always have the shaft almost completely in the shock. Usually, putting the bladder on first helps to get the shock close as well, by displacing excess oil.

A lot of times, you have to slightly loosen the cap, as you push in the shaft, to let some oil out and get the rebound the way you want it. It can be frustrating, but keeping fresh bladders in the car makes this a lot easier.
Thanks Rob...these shocks are tricky and more difficult to deal with at first than my MI3 or Type R shocks...just got used to the bleeder holes on the shock caps and its sooooo hard to get the exact rebound settings on all 4 shocks with these AE TC5 shocks.

I've cured the leaking from the bottom pblm and have them at around 40% rebound...its closest I could get them to w/o making a mess so that's what they'll be staying at for now...but wow, once they're set , they are suuuuuuuuuper smooth
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:05 PM   #5548
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I am looking to run 13.5 with a FDR of 4.40-ish. What size spur are people running (64p)? What is fitting, as far as having room to change up and down a few?
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:09 PM   #5549
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Whats the easiest way to set droop. I'm using a setup from the AE website and have a droop gauge just need to know what is the best way. Are blocks needed to raise the car.
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Old 03-22-2008, 04:03 PM   #5550
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Quote:
Whats the easiest way to set droop. I'm using a setup from the AE website and have a droop gauge just need to know what is the best way. Are blocks needed to raise the car.
The way that I do it personally and it might not be right is to measure the ride height of the car, and then adjust it to where I can pick it up to the height that I want the droop set too and adjust the screws till they touch when I lift the car to that height.
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