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Old 03-06-2008, 11:11 AM   #5491
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How's the hole spacing on the xray spurs? Can you fit more than 2 screws?
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Old 03-06-2008, 11:39 AM   #5492
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No problem here running Kimbrough spur gears. Run true, last, and mount to all 3 holes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS457&P=7
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Old 03-06-2008, 11:42 AM   #5493
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How's the hole spacing on the xray spurs? Can you fit more than 2 screws?

The wholes line up perfect, you can get three screws in them with no problem.
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Old 03-09-2008, 03:35 PM   #5494
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Hey Guys

I am having a nightmare with the shox on my TC5 .. however I build them I cant stop the bloomin things leaking ...

I have tried with and without foams.

Any tips?

Thanks
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:04 PM   #5495
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Originally Posted by getpip View Post
Hey Guys

I am having a nightmare with the shox on my TC5 .. however I build them I cant stop the bloomin things leaking ...

I have tried with and without foams.

Any tips?

Thanks
where are they leaking from?
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:49 PM   #5496
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Hello everyone, I am new here and I am racing a TC5 and have a few questions about gearing with 64 Pitch spurs. I will be running in the stock class and using a 27T motor. Where should I start with this motor, from what I can tell most of the tracks I will be racing they are all a good size, not really short. Any help would be appreciated. All are also asphalt with rubber tires.
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:21 PM   #5497
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One of the most annoying things with my TC5 is when I have to change arms or what the change the roll center. I have to basically take the entire end of the car apart so that I can get to the 2 screws that hold the arm mounts in (since they are on the inside of the bulkhead).

Anyone tried moving the screws to the outside of the bulkhead and using a washer on the inside to keep it from coming out? This screw also has a tendency to start to back out after racing and its rather difficult to tighten(unless you have a rounded hex driver) or use a L-wrench.

Anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:31 PM   #5498
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Chirag,

Do yourself a favor and invest in the best 15.00 ever and buy a Hudy 2.0 ball hex driver. All your problems will be over and you will enjoy the car again.

Steve

PS How's the sphere?
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:32 PM   #5499
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anyone running brushless and have stepped up there gearing to use the Kimbrough 90T, 93T, or 96T 48p spurs?
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:33 PM   #5500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatel529 View Post
One of the most annoying things with my TC5 is when I have to change arms or what the change the roll center. I have to basically take the entire end of the car apart so that I can get to the 2 screws that hold the arm mounts in (since they are on the inside of the bulkhead).

Anyone tried moving the screws to the outside of the bulkhead and using a washer on the inside to keep it from coming out? This screw also has a tendency to start to back out after racing and its rather difficult to tighten(unless you have a rounded hex driver) or use a L-wrench.

Anyone have any suggestions?
Well you kinda offered up the solution...get a rounded hex driver. Although I don't use one. Also, I use longer screws and thread lock on the arm mounts. This helps keep them from backing out. However longscrews from the outside and M3 nuts will work.
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:37 PM   #5501
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Originally Posted by katfish317 View Post
Hello everyone, I am new here and I am racing a TC5 and have a few questions about gearing with 64 Pitch spurs. I will be running in the stock class and using a 27T motor. Where should I start with this motor, from what I can tell most of the tracks I will be racing they are all a good size, not really short. Any help would be appreciated. All are also asphalt with rubber tires.
Katfish,

There are probably better expert stock guys on here then me, I am more a "Mod" guy than stock, but I ran a indoor carpet rubber tire race recently on a small track. I ran a 112/30 64p on a Epic CO27 motor. For outdoor on a bigger track maybe run a 112/32 or 33. Just make sure the motor doesn't get too hot.

Steve
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:51 AM   #5502
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Well you kinda offered up the solution...get a rounded hex driver. Although I don't use one. Also, I use longer screws and thread lock on the arm mounts. This helps keep them from backing out. However longscrews from the outside and M3 nuts will work.
In order for this to work, you would have to drill out the threads in the current "nut" portion. You can tighten up the screw as much as you want and it will feel tight once the head meets the mounting nut. You would still have to tighten the nut on the other side with a nut driver.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:10 AM   #5503
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where are they leaking from?
Hi there .. they are leaking from the top... oil must be getting past the lip of the bladders .. tried to tighten them right down but still no joy
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:14 AM   #5504
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Thanks alot Steve I appreciate it alot!
I will try those as I plan to go and test at one or two of these tracks.
Tim
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:24 PM   #5505
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Hi there .. they are leaking from the top... oil must be getting past the lip of the bladders .. tried to tighten them right down but still no joy
are they leaking while on the car or lying on a table? when i built mine they seemed to leak when lying on their sides when they were on my table. now if they were leaking or maybe oil was just running out from every nook and cranny from the oil over flowing when assembling, i don't know. what i do know is when they were put on the car and setting up right, there was no leaking.
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