DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

You definately DO NOT need to run the ITF main chassis to get the car to work on rubber/asphalt. I have been using the ITF chassis and topdeck since June last year and have just recently switched back to the standard main chassis with the ITF top deck. This is racing on tracks here in Brisbane - Australia (very low to med bite outdoor asphalt tracks). I have found more cornerspeed and steering with this combo.

I have also started running with the hard plastic suspension components as well and this has made the car really consistent to drive fast as well as being much more sensitive to minor changes to setup.

In short:

1. std chassis with ITF top deck is a great combo (fast and consistent) my choice pick
2. std chassis with std top deck is okay at best
3. ITF chassis with ITF top deck is a great for really low bite, but does suffer when grip levels come up
4. ITF chassis with std top deck is okay (fast, but not consistent to drive)

These are my personal findings running on the tracks we have here. (5 cell mod - 3.0t or 3.5t motors) rubber tires on very low to medium bite outdoor tracks). I will post a setup soon (RC Tech doesn't allow excel spreadsheets )

- Leonard.

Hope this info helps.

RCpurplecow

iTrader: (1)

ArnO: Thanks for the link... GREAT SETUPS

Steve: Sorry I won't be able to make it this year. I'm attending a race at my local track, The Coliseum in Frederick, Maryland. I'll try to get a good setup based on some I've found.

Dirty Dog: I'm interested about your findings. I'll try to experiment with the different chassis configurations and see what I find is the best for high bite asphalt.

DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

High bite asphalt: use std chassis and ift top deck with hard plastic parts. (I believe this is the combo used at TITC by some of the AE guys - Drescher, Juho, and Abbott) I am sure they will confirm when they get back.

- Leonard.

steve eaves

iTrader: (74)

Interesting,i have the hard parts on order i will do some expermiting.

Miami

iTrader: (14)

At TITC Juho and Craig both used the ITF main chassis and ITF top deck. Both used the foam top deck for most of practice but then tried the ITF top deck and preferred it. I also ran the ITF chassis and top deck and preferred it. The stiff suspension arms allow you to feel a very small change to the car on the track and they were the preferred choice. RCS the track used for TITC was super high traction. The highest I have ever driven on. The car was very good indeed on this track. Juho was as quick as anyone else there, he just had very bad luck. Craig also ended up fast, he won the 2nd B final.

Andrew Abbott.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

has anyone had problems with the ae ball cups (rod ends)? i built one tc5 and they went together great. built a second tc5 and the ball cups kept spliting either at the ball cup or where you thread in the turnbuckles. the first kit the rod ends screwed on fairly easy but the second it was a nightmare to get them on. seemed like a different material or something.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

button head or countersink screws for the top deck / o-ring mod? does it matter?

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Button head with a small washer is best, but you can use a countersink and it will still work.

m8commando

iTrader: (7)

I 100% Agree on the the chassis pick, I also run a standard chassis with a ITF top deck......and the car has been flawless.

I am also now experimenting Hard Parts on the car in asphalt conditions and the car is more hooked up. It feels like the car wants to stay in the turn more plus it seems to be a little more reactive, the C-hubs arn't flexing as much either. I am a firm beliver in letting the suspension due the work. I will be testing this setup again over the weekend.

I will post again my findings!

tcmerf

Does anyone have a good base set up for BCR in Orange county. Its been so long i dont even remember whats in the shocks!

748eric

iTrader: (1)

Question for a newbee TC5 owner. I'm brand new to on-road racing, did a bit of off-road a few years back.

I'm trying to decide on which way to go in the rubber tire class.

27t brushed
or 17.5 brushless.

I already have a GTB from my off-road car and after talking to a few folks around the track they suggested to go 27t brushed and just switch the GTB to brushed mode.

So last night someone gave me a used brushed motor and I hooked it up only to find the motor is buzzing like crazy and must be shot.

So my question, if you were a total rookie in on-road, should I just brake down and get the brushless 17.5? I've read it really tough to gear them with the TC's???

Any suggestions or advise would be awesome....

Thanks
Eric

RedRocketRacing

iTrader: (8)

Eric-

Just do what you can afford. We will see in a couple of weeks at the Nats on weather a 17.5 is faster or better than a stock brushed motor. If someone gave you a motor than maybe you can have somebody else have a look at it.

It is true that the 17.5 take a very tall gear. I had to run a 5.0 with a 110/40 or something for a 13.5. So, all in all nobody knows yet if the right way to go is a 17.5 or a stock. Good thing that you already have a GTB and can go either way. Might as well start with a brushed.

RedRocket
Anders Hagen

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Anyone have any pics of the electronics layout on this car. I'm trying to fit a GTB and a futaba receiver and man this thing is tight on space.

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

I use Futaba receivers also and I had to place the receiver on its side when I installed my brushless system...thats all you should have to do...

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I was able to squeeze a GTB with Futaba receiver in there but I couldn't move the motor far enough forward to get the gearing I needed. So I changed the spur gear.