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Old 02-04-2008, 09:48 PM   #5281
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Hey everyone...I just wanted to drop a note to congratulate Keven Hebert on his first major podium finish in Modified Foam TC. He was fast all week long and deserved his result. He was also able to finish 5th in a very competetive 19T class. Great job "Oh Canada".

Also, Juho Levanen was also right on pace with the other top guys at the event and was the unfortunate recipent of a rear end collision in Mod after qualifying a close 4th place.

Over the past few events the guys have gotten the TC5 working very well on carpet with foam tires. I will try to have a setup sheet from the event up on the site later this week.
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Old 02-05-2008, 05:28 AM   #5282
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Maybell, does the spool and one way get built the same as the diff, balls and all. I notice with the spool it comes in 2 pieces and 4 screws. Never built one before could use some advice on it. Thanks! No direction sheet which is typical of AE since thunder tiger took over.
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:12 AM   #5283
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Originally Posted by t4mania View Post
Maybell, does the spool and one way get built the same as the diff, balls and all. I notice with the spool it comes in 2 pieces and 4 screws. Never built one before could use some advice on it. Thanks! No direction sheet which is typical of AE since thunder tiger took over.
no balls with the spool or one way. the spool is a locked axle so you just glue the two haves of the gear together slide it over the aluminum hub and bolt it down. the one way is the same way, glue together, bolt it on, then you just slide the axle cups into the one way assembly and you're ready to go.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:00 AM   #5284
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Congrats to KEVEN 3rd place at the Novak Race and a 2nd at the Snowbirds........ Carpet Nats 1st ?

Working your way right up the podium
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Old 02-05-2008, 08:03 AM   #5285
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Originally Posted by t4mania View Post
Maybell, does the spool and one way get built the same as the diff, balls and all. I notice with the spool it comes in 2 pieces and 4 screws. Never built one before could use some advice on it. Thanks! No direction sheet which is typical of AE since thunder tiger took over.
just like Lowet said...

just be carefull not to overtighten the screws holding the gear on the on-way and spool...use a very little amount of blue threadlock also..
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:47 PM   #5286
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Thanks guys for your help.
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:54 PM   #5287
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Originally Posted by RedRocketRacing View Post
While since we are finally talking shocks I will ask my question... again.

What packages are poeple running on their cars and how do they like them?

I am running 50wt all around wiht one rebound foam, and red losi pistons. with 50% rebound.

I like the car to have a slow weight transfer from side to side and I think it helps keep the car settled thru the chicanes. I also run loose so I need the suspension to work a little slower.

My shock problem. I keep having the bladders fall into the shock. Re-did my front shocks 3 times on friday night, Finally got pissed and went home. Was tired of dealing with them, If I had had them with me I would of tried to mount my tamiyas on the car.

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Not sure how old the bladders are, but they get expanded and soft from the oil. You have to replace them every so often.

HPI black and white bladders do nicely as well.
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:40 PM   #5288
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Guys thanks for the help, I figured it out, it was the bladders that was giving me a problem. I changed all 4 bladders and replaced them with ones from GS, since them I havent had a problem.
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:51 PM   #5289
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I used this set up, except rear sway and I got the rear cam numbers wrong, two weeks ago at our club race and the car was loose. I made the two changes and did that car come alive or what. I went from not getting any closer than 3 laps of the fast 19t foam guys to within 2 sec. of tq. The car is faster than driver, but I am making good head way. The a main was fun and I was in contention until I rubbed the outside border and hit a open gap that ripped off my rear wheel, only broken part so far. Great car and I cannot wait to run it again in two weeks. I ran this set up with regular arms and c-hubs, but I run on med. grip carpet. The TC5 ROCKS
God Bless


Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
I just want to thank all the Associated guys (Bob, Keven, Jucha), for all the help this weekend. By the mains , my car was totally dialed, but not my driving

Jucha's setup for foam is excellent. I think both Bob S. and Keven were gravitating towards it, but I don't want to speak for them. The car was awesome through the sweeper, and carried a ton of cornerspeed.

Jucha's seup-as far as i know. Maybe he or someone from AE can correct me if i miss anything

Front
ride ht 4.5mm
camber -1.5
caster 6*
toe 0
hex spacing .5mm
wheel base 1mm shim in front
steering link 1A
bumpsteer 4mm
diff ball-cam a setting 1
tire jaco dbl pink 55.8mm
1/2 (13.5)to 3/4 (10.5)dope
shock
57 losi piston
60wt oil
purple spring
full rebound
shock 2a
camber link 4
stock ballstud
arm mount 2A ff/fr
shims 3* ff/fr
droop 1.5mm
silver swaybar
hard arms & caster block

ReaR
ride height 4.5
camber 2.0
toe hub 1.0, 2* overall toe (this is an aggressive setting, .5 or 0 toe at the hub mellows the car out/reduces rotation, when overall toe is the same)
hex spacing 0
wheelbase full long
diff ball cam a setting 8
tire Jaco dbl pink 55.8 full dope
shock
Losi 56
30 wt oil
full rebound
gold spring
shock 3A
camber link 5B (I like this a lot as the car is a bit easier to drive. 5A would be very twitchy on hi bite)
black ballstud w/2mm spacer
arm mount 1b fr/rr
shim 2*fr/3*rr
droop 1.5mm
no roll bar
hard arms

I was a couple changes away that made the car better for me.
Foremost was the steering link at 2B. 1A was hard for me to hold on to(very reactive), and I felt like i wanted a bit more overall steering. The 2 position on the bellcrank mellows the car out, and B tends to have a bit more steering all the way thru the turn.

I also went one hole in on the rear shock tower, which made the car rotate a bit more. My car seemed to touch the chassis edges a lot at the rear (even before I moved the shock), so i ran the black sway bar at the rear to help this. The other guys' cars didn't seem to be touching. That may have been my shock building coming into play.

Bob also said the hard arms are in at AE, so they should be coming out very soon.
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:42 AM   #5290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
I used this set up, except rear sway and I got the rear cam numbers wrong, two weeks ago at our club race and the car was loose. I made the two changes and did that car come alive or what. I went from not getting any closer than 3 laps of the fast 19t foam guys to within 2 sec. of tq. The car is faster than driver, but I am making good head way. The a main was fun and I was in contention until I rubbed the outside border and hit a open gap that ripped off my rear wheel, only broken part so far. Great car and I cannot wait to run it again in two weeks. I ran this set up with regular arms and c-hubs, but I run on med. grip carpet. The TC5 ROCKS
God Bless
J, Are you saying you ran a rear sway? Or did you mean except front sway? If you ran rear sway which one didnt see it in Jucha's setup? Had similar problem is why I ask....
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Old 02-06-2008, 12:25 PM   #5291
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Did some more testing last night .... still using the foam setup from the Novak as posted on here. Did some back to back running with and without swaybars.... car just seemed to feel more consistent without the bars. Don't know if one was binding or something but the car felt kinda tweaked when I had them on.

Now just need to dial in a fraction more steering and I'll be sorted. Even as it was it was good enough for a TQ and A win by nearly a lap.
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Old 02-06-2008, 01:38 PM   #5292
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Robk did some tweeking to Jucha's set up from the Novak. Robk's tweeking is at the bottom of the "quote". The car felt solid. I used the sway bars ( silver ft and black rear ).

When putting on a sway bar I disconnect the shocks and try to make sure the sway bar works the same when lifting both arms. Lift one arm and note when the opposite arm begins to lift. You match them by the length of the ball stud screw (blue) that attaches the arm to the sway bar. Tight or loosen until both arms activate the opposite arm the same. Also make sure that when the sway bar is attached it lets both arms come down to the droop screws. If you do not do these tasks it could really effect the handling of the car.
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Old 02-06-2008, 01:41 PM   #5293
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sorry
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Old 02-06-2008, 01:41 PM   #5294
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sorry
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Old 02-06-2008, 01:51 PM   #5295
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I got impatient, sorry
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Last edited by Jsaves; 02-06-2008 at 02:00 PM. Reason: quad post due to slow upload
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