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Old 01-27-2008, 07:53 PM   #5236
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Originally Posted by outlandr91 View Post
RedRocket.I'm running rubber-CS27 tires.The problem is hard to diagose, the car wasn't pushing or oversteering.Just to try something I tried raising the front roll center but that caused the car to have too much steering.I'm going to try Ken Pepe's setup from the Novak race.I heard the conditions were similar to what I experienced today.Thanks for replying.
I run alot of rubber tire, and from my experiece with the cs27's is to make sure you are not getting a build up on the tires as the grip comes up. Alot people use to use WD-40 on those and RP tires to make them softer, I am not sure the procedure for doing this but, I worked for alot of poeple.

Raising the roll center in the front should of make the car a pushy on exit and probably give the car more steering on exit but, should free the car up in the middle of a corner. I love having high roll center on my car wiht a oneway on rubber tires. I almost never change this. I combine this with heavier oil and making the rear of the car on the loose side. Usually a mid roll center.

If the car is not pushing or over steering than the car all around is too tight. Meaning that you are scubbing speed in the corner. You are on the right track by raising the roll centers, I would than make adjustment to toe angles and maybe caster angles. I have noticed that alot of people run 3 degrees of toe on the car. I was faster with less than that and the car was nice and free and fast. I know you are gonna try the other set up but this might help you in the future.

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Old 01-27-2008, 08:14 PM   #5237
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It has probably been mentioned, but does anyone know if or when the hard suspension parts will be available? I noticed the distributors did not have them, but does AE have them in stock?
Some are out now and the rest should be soon to follow. I received castor blocks and steering knuckles that were packaged in my last order.
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:07 PM   #5238
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Hey guys, I now have some aluminum rear hubs available in 0 and one degree versions. These include 5 adjustment holes for the upper camber link for more adjustment options.
you can check them out at www.teamtamale.com
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:10 PM   #5239
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CONGRATS ON THE WIN PW
Thanks thunder
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:26 PM   #5240
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I am having a problem with burning up the outside rear hub bearings. I am using the Juho Snowbird set up with the 1 degree rear toe hubs. It is a carpet track with Medium to High grip and I am running double pink Jacos in the rear. Does anyone know why the bearing would be going bad so often?

I used the search function but didnt find any posts concerning this issue. It has been several bearings and I know two other racers having the same issue. Any help would be appreciated.
Dont know if this is a common problem but I found that I had a bad cvd on the right rear....and I was chewin up bearings.....Could be unrelated but w/new cv no mo problem....Plus keepin off the rail helps to
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:17 PM   #5241
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Thanks thunder

Good luck at the Birds PW. Lay it down on'em brutha...
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Old 01-28-2008, 09:53 PM   #5242
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Might be the rails although I dont bounce off them as much as I used to. I will re-check the CVDs and pay close attention to my knocks against the boards to see if that may be it.
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Old 01-29-2008, 03:49 PM   #5243
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Does anyone else make a layshaft besides titanium racing for the tc5??
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Old 01-30-2008, 01:51 AM   #5244
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does anybody else have trouble with the blue cap on the center pulley coming looseand rattling around? its done it to me 4 times now.
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Old 01-30-2008, 10:12 AM   #5245
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Ok first post.. Thanks for everyone on this forum invaluable info.. have read entire thing (took a while) and i have probably already forgotten some stuff. Looking to race carpet 13.5 or 19t. working to copy Jucha novak setup. Have couple of questions.. Please bear with me. 1st - wheel base shim 1mm front? where does this go.. is to widen the car (closer to 190mm?). I understand the arm mount shims ( 3* ff/fr)... 2nd - Bumpsteer 4mm ? is this acheived by shims under the ballstud for steering link?... 3rd - Full shock rebound? is this no foams right?... 4th - For rear it says full wheelbase long. what does this mean? ... 5th - Black ballstud? which one is this? ...and finally when using Ae droop gauge (with tires and shocks removed) what is 1.5 mm of droop equal too? Thanks for your hopefull patience.
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:35 AM   #5246
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Ok first post.. Thanks for everyone on this forum invaluable info.. have read entire thing (took a while) and i have probably already forgotten some stuff. Looking to race carpet 13.5 or 19t. working to copy Jucha novak setup. Have couple of questions.. Please bear with me. 1st - wheel base shim 1mm front? where does this go.. is to widen the car (closer to 190mm?). I understand the arm mount shims ( 3* ff/fr)... 2nd - Bumpsteer 4mm ? is this acheived by shims under the ballstud for steering link?... 3rd - Full shock rebound? is this no foams right?... 4th - For rear it says full wheelbase long. what does this mean? ... 5th - Black ballstud? which one is this? ...and finally when using Ae droop gauge (with tires and shocks removed) what is 1.5 mm of droop equal too? Thanks for your hopefull patience.

1st wheel base is changed by the little black 1mm and 2mm shims that are on the inner hidge pins 1mm is the shim you want to have in front of the arm( closer to the bumper)

2nd you are correct with how to get the bumpsteer

3rd full shock rebound with 2 foams.. use the smaller foam and then the really big foam has an inside foam... pop that inside foam out and use that with the smaller foam that looks just like it inside the bladder.

4th long wheel base is taking both the wheel base shims ( both 1mm and 2mm black plastic ) take the rear arms off the hidge pins take the pin slide both wheel base spacers onto the hidge pin and then slide the arm on. then put the pin in the roll centers and put them back on. This will move the rear arms further back creating a longer wheel base for the car.

5th Black ballstuds are the ones that come with the kit, i am sure that is what is on your car cause you have to purchase the longer/taller silver ones seperate.

Droop .. on Jucha's setup he ended up running 6 in the front and 5 in the rear. you can figure this out by taking the tires off the car but leaving the shock on. you dont need to take them off to get the droop. the 6 and 5 are using the associated droop gauge that comes with the car kit. and you can check the car just under the outer hidge pins on the underneath of the arms.

hope this helps
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:04 PM   #5247
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I don't know if Jucha used the foams. I think the shocks were just full rebound, in that they extended all the way.
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:43 PM   #5248
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Hey all,

Way back in this forum a fella from Italy (I think) posted a steel Lipo tray that he or a friend of his had machined for the TC5. I checked his website but couldn't find the tray.

Does anyone know of a tray that can be used in the TC5 for Lipo weight correction? I think that a tray would be the best option as it would evenly spread the weight across the right side if the car in the sam manner as the sub c packs.

Cheers,
Warwick.
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:48 PM   #5249
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Actually, just saw Verndog's thread on a tray he is developing.

Looks awesome!
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:11 PM   #5250
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Since I have gotten a few PMs for the Novak TC5 setups, I'll just post the links here in case anyone is looking for them

Brian Jucha Novak 08 FOAM TIRE
Team Associated TC5



Ken Pepe Novak 08 RUBBER TIRE
Team Associated TC5
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