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Old 12-17-2007, 06:52 PM   #4861
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George, that is probably correct. Look to see if they have any shims on the FWD section for the rear of the car. This would reduce the amount of rear toe on the car.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:06 PM   #4862
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Yeah but how do i get to run with 190mm and have toe in . Is it good to run the car at 190mm front and rear what would run on a high bite carpet

Thanks George
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:38 PM   #4863
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George running 1 degree rear hubs is what you want to do.

I would highly suggest trying juho 's setup from the indoor champs. He is running a slightly altered setup of Bob Stellflue's setup and he is one of the engineers of the TC5. Myself and a fellow racer got the setup from bob at the halloween classic we have run it at a few different tracks using different traction compounds and the setup has transfered very nicely from track to track. And in juho's setup your front end will be at right about 188mm and the rear right at about 190mm. Running the rear wider than the front should help the car out by giving it some steering. If you follow the setup exactly you should have a very well handling, easy to drive car.

Also to help the car out in high bite you will benifit from glueing the side wall of the tires both front and rear and it will also help to run smaller tires( i am not a big fan of running small tires and then throwing them in the trash ) so you can run some bigger tires but you must adjust droop as they have it set in the setup for 56.5 tires. But smaller tires will also help by freeing up the car some
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:47 PM   #4864
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hey guys we all now the TC5 hub bearings suck and need change after 3-5 impacts...

www.magmarc.com APS ceramic bearings they have differet shields, price is great...

Tell them Gordie recommended.
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:50 AM   #4865
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George, sorry I am running rubber tire and you must be running foams?

Gordie, I always thought ceramic bearings were more fragile than the regular bearings? Is this a new type?
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:06 AM   #4866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
Yeah but how do i get to run with 190mm and have toe in . Is it good to run the car at 190mm front and rear what would run on a high bite carpet

Thanks George
George,

When I first built the car I had to shim out the rears arms first to get the proper width. After that then I added the toe on the rear of the bulkhead. Also you will have to get longer screws than the ones supplied.

see you at 360..
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:58 PM   #4867
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does anyone know if the Xray T1FK05 C-Hubs will fit on the TC5?

thanks
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:55 AM   #4868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordie88 View Post
hey guys we all now the TC5 hub bearings suck and need change after 3-5 impacts...

www.magmarc.com APS ceramic bearings they have differet shields, price is great...

Tell them Gordie recommended.
Well, if $6.09 per bearing is cheap, I'l stick to my $12.00 per set price and replace the 1-2 per week as needed. I cant see spending $50.00 for one set then another $50.00 to back that set up. This is where that link lead me...and I missing something?

Ceramic Bearings
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:06 AM   #4869
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When using the one way diff does anything have to be glued.
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:28 AM   #4870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4mania View Post
When using the one way diff does anything have to be glued.
Yes. The pulley has that thin side plate that must be glued on just like the diff pulleys that came in the kit. Not anything to be worried about. Just a thin line of glue.
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:31 AM   #4871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordie88 View Post
hey guys we all now the TC5 hub bearings suck and need change after 3-5 impacts...

Tell them Gordie recommended.
Yes they do, they are too small to handle impact that occur during racing. At 6x10x3mm, the bearings internal balls are very small compared to a 5x10x4 bearing.

It really won't matter what type of bearing you use, I've tried several types of ceramics, standard, rubber, metal, etc.., they all fail from impact damage very easily. I would suggest removing the crush sleeve within the steering block. Hardly any other high-end kit uses a "crush-sleeve"... This is something Associated introduced back with the TC3, and I've suspected it as damaging bearings ever since.

To make the TC5 a really good car, only a few improvments need to be made:

- Reduce axle bearing size to 5mm to accept a 5x10x4mm bearing.
- Modify Steering Blocks to accept a 1mm wider bearing on each side, and remove bearing crush spacers.
- Create stronger optional suspension arms and C-hubs for Carpet racing (not brittle, strong).
- Modify C-Hub plastic molds to reduce breakage at lower screw hole. These are notorious for cracking right through the hole. Could be done by making a longer insert and thicker plastic.
- A 3mm+ thick chassis for carpet racing.
- Create a diff with some type of dust shield to prevent dirt, rubber, and carpet fibers from caking up on expelled grease from inside the diff.

Other than these few issues, the TC5 is a great, cost effective car. I would be happy with the TC5 even if all the options above were optional. As the kit comes now, it is best for rubber tire racing, but the bearing issue needs to be addressed with an upgrade kit, or optional parts.
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:41 AM   #4872
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Thanks much Wallstreet!
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:50 AM   #4873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
Yes they do, they are too small to handle impact that occur during racing. At 6x10x3mm, the bearings internal balls are very small compared to a 5x10x4 bearing.

It really won't matter what type of bearing you use, I've tried several types of ceramics, standard, rubber, metal, etc.., they all fail from impact damage very easily. I would suggest removing the crush sleeve within the steering block. Hardly any other high-end kit uses a "crush-sleeve"... This is something Associated introduced back with the TC3, and I've suspected it as damaging bearings ever since.

To make the TC5 a really good car, only a few improvments need to be made:

- Reduce axle bearing size to 5mm to accept a 5x10x4mm bearing.
- Modify Steering Blocks to accept a 1mm wider bearing on each side, and remove bearing crush spacers.
- Create stronger optional suspension arms and C-hubs for Carpet racing (not brittle, strong).
- Modify C-Hub plastic molds to reduce breakage at lower screw hole. These are notorious for cracking right through the hole. Could be done by making a longer insert and thicker plastic.
- A 3mm+ thick chassis for carpet racing.
- Create a diff with some type of dust shield to prevent dirt, rubber, and carpet fibers from caking up on expelled grease from inside the diff.

Other than these few issues, the TC5 is a great, cost effective car. I would be happy with the TC5 even if all the options above were optional. As the kit comes now, it is best for rubber tire racing, but the bearing issue needs to be addressed with an upgrade kit, or optional parts.
-

Do you own a TC5. ?

I am not trying to get into it with you just asking. As far as the arms go , the team drivers are running harder arms and caster blocks and have reported very good things on those and no breakage. As to there release to the non team drivers i would assume they will in time, But thunder tiger is in charge so i am sure it might be a we will get them done when we can type of thing, which is fine by me as long as they come out.

As far as bearings.... I personally have not had a problem, and just buying regular bearings is the way to go cause if you race often you should replace them every once in a while anyways.

3MM + chassis I retract my first question cause if you dont own a TC5 find one at your local track and test the stiffness of the chassis cause it is incredibly stiff. With the taller bulkheads and 3mm chassis the car is as stiff as any other car out there.

Diffs ... If built right they last a long time before rebuild. I am still running the diffs i build up when i built the kit and they are extremely smooth.

Caster block breakage. All you need is a Buds TC3 plastic bumper ( ala what corally did comming out with the kydex bumper) modify it just a little bit and grind a spot on the standard bumper ( on the bottom) so the plastic doesnt make it stick up to far to get the screws through it. And you will get rid of ALOT of the front end breakage .

** Rob King ** came up with the buds tc3 bumper mod !! ALL HAIL THE KING !!

Last edited by wallstreet; 12-20-2007 at 09:01 AM. Reason: giving credit to rob king
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:57 AM   #4874
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actually, the reason for the bearing spacer sleeve is to spread any side impact among both bearings... so it should help, rather than hurt bearing durability. having ran most cars out there, i know you will find these spacers on the Tamiyas and Hot Bodies/HPI's as well. they use tiny 5x9 bearings, which are much worse. the newest Tamiya car has gone to 5x10, probably for that reason.

if you are looking for good bearings at a good price, id try these:

http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=141
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Old 12-20-2007, 05:48 PM   #4875
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Most of your complaints can be fixed with a good front bumper

http://cefxraceway.net/?mainURL=/sto...b8yi/CEFX.html
30050 Associated TC5 Kydex Bumper

The chassis honestly is plenty stiff. The bearings are not a great size. I have had an exploded bearing in the rear hub.

I ran the original diffs in the car for like 4 months, no rebuilds, before putting the aluminum halves on because I wanted to. Sweet.

Good luck
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