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Old 11-13-2007, 09:03 PM   #4561
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Originally Posted by twistedone View Post
Mine are ordered and hope they fit as good as they look
thanks for the info on these
I suppose stock bushings fit ?

they fit perfect


by the way if you guys want some steering blocks there a little different but they do work i am using the team tamale steering blocks he made for the xray t2 007 and they work great have not broke since

and i think teamtamale has some of those steering blocks available
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:57 PM   #4562
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sweet and thanks for all the great stuff have used the corally stuff in past it was awesome also

OK REAR HUBS AND ITS BULLET PROOF WHO'S FIT ?
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:14 PM   #4563
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Default Team Tamale

Team Tamale
is bullet proof...I've used TT products on my Xbrand cars...and the material is 1000 times better than any other aluminum used by other manufactures...
I've had the Xbrand bend a few times...bent Suzuki ...ouch.. and a few others....but never TT chubs etc..
and yes...they almost all cost the same...as the team tamale..

add up the cost of a few steering knuckles and Chubs...broken during racing..well..there you go...you will end up saving money using the TT parts... and always better than getting a DNF on race day, that's priceless.

As far as fit....Team Tamale (one man shop) test and fits everything he makes...he takes direct input from drivers he deals with. If you take note.... he usually sells out at the big races.
keep up the good work Team Tamale....
you have built up quite a fan base across car brands...


TT.....when available...I'll take a set of alum steering knuckles.
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Last edited by olhipster1; 11-13-2007 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:15 AM   #4564
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Thanks for the response on the c-hubs everyone. I only had time to make a limited number of these. I only have one set each of the 4 and 6 degree c-hubs left at this time. If anyone else wants either of these, you might want to drop me an email first to make sure I still have them in stock. I will be making more in the near future, hopefully along with with steering blocks and rear hubs. These hubs do use the stock bushings, you will only need a 3mm set screw for the hinge pin.
Got mine installed last night, and I must say nice job! I did drop you a line on an easy improvement relating to the engineered "additional slop" that could be removed. The main issues is with the AE bushings. They are made to .172 dia. OD and the bores in both the AE and the teatamale hubs are bored to .180 dia. leaving .008 slop. This could easily be reduced to .002-.003 by either A--new bushings (which I may make some 15-5 stainless ones) or B reducing the hole size in the teamtamale C hubs. I may just make 100 bushings and anyone that wants to tighten theirs up could buy them for stock or the teamtamale hubs. There is also additional clearance in the bushing ID to clear the screw OD that could be reduced, making for a much more stable front end.
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Old 11-14-2007, 12:19 PM   #4565
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I see ALOT of differant set-ups and advise on the TC5 for asphalt here(a hell of alot of reading here too 151 pages). I've been racing for about 7 years and love the Associated line for touring. The last belt drivin car i had was a HPI pro 2. After that it was the TC3 and Now the Team TC4. I Race in Texas and I'm gonna be purchasing a TC5 for parking lot asphalt club racing(main track is not a huge track but big enough) and try to go to some BIG electric racing events from time to time. We run alot of 19t races here using cs-27 rubber tires. I'm throwing this out to AE DRIVERS for a set-up and parts i should start with before i buy/build it. I see everyone talking about the spool , aluminum outdrives,the 4 o'rings on the back upper deck and the ITF chassis(upper and lower) for asphalt racing scene. Can someone help me out so when i order the car i can order all the option parts that i need to start out with in the first build(gearing would help out great too,gonna stay with 48p). I was thinking of getting the Mazda speed 6 body for it aswell. If this helps i posted a nice link of the track and design (changes about every other week but, you get the idea). I'm the yellow with the blue flames i like to drive fast and tight into the turns. It has been recently resurfaced and we use grape soda on the track. Gets pretty good traction.Thanks alot for the help.

P.S. Tips on building would be great also.

www.promofo-racing.org/Elec-TC-A-Main-428.html

Still looking for a set up, can one of you AE drivers recommend one.
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:40 PM   #4566
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Has anybody tried using the Orion Lipo's in the their TC5? I'm looking to go Lipo and would like to get either the 4800 or the new 3600 when it comes out. Can anybody comment on how how either the 4800 with square edges or the contoured 3200 fit?
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:58 PM   #4567
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Has anybody tried using the Orion Lipo's in the their TC5? I'm looking to go Lipo and would like to get either the 4800 or the new 3600 when it comes out. Can anybody comment on how how either the 4800 with square edges or the contoured 3200 fit?
The 4800 fits perfectly. The holes for the plugs do not interfere with the top top deck at all.
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Old 11-14-2007, 02:33 PM   #4568
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Has anyone tried some front arm sweep on their TC5? I've been told it will give you more turn in. Right now I have 2 degree caster block on my TC5 and I like the way it drove on most of the track. However, I am looking for a bit more turn in. When I had the 4 degree caster blocks on I had all of the turn in I needed, but when existing a turn my car wanted to keep turning. I was thinking if I add some arm sweep this would help. I won't be at the track for another week and a half so I won't be able to experiment soon.

I have attached my setup if anyone needed more info to answer my question. Thanks!
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:55 PM   #4569
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Still looking for a set up, can one of you AE drivers recommend one.
hey big daddy, you can use brent t's set up from reedy race, just add gold front springs, if rear of car is too loose, move rear shocks inside on arm. we race on med grip asphalt here in arizona, car is dialed, some people still use stock chassis, any questions feel free to ask
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Old 11-15-2007, 08:52 AM   #4570
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I,m going to open up a can of something here I know it .

I,m still running a xxxs g+ and still beleive that its about the driving not the chassis.

If I were to entertain the thought of a tc5 would I really be able to shave time off my laps or is as everyone seems to believe driving everything?

I still smoke guys in "higher end luxury cars". I guess my point is, is it worth it?
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Old 11-15-2007, 09:23 AM   #4571
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What does changing the roll center change in handling of the car. Im running the 2 dot on the front and rear of the car. The car feels great but like the guy said before when I run the spool the car seems to want to keep turning.
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Old 11-15-2007, 02:02 PM   #4572
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
I,m going to open up a can of something here I know it .

I,m still running a xxxs g+ and still beleive that its about the driving not the chassis.

If I were to entertain the thought of a tc5 would I really be able to shave time off my laps or is as everyone seems to believe driving everything?

I still smoke guys in "higher end luxury cars". I guess my point is, is it worth it?
i used to have a tc4, but after a while i felt like the car was holding me back. so i got a tc5. my lap times have definitely increased and i'm a lot faster than before. my driving style has adjusted to the car and has made me faster. if you feel like the car is holding you back then get a tc5.
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Old 11-15-2007, 02:21 PM   #4573
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
I,m going to open up a can of something here I know it .

I,m still running a xxxs g+ and still beleive that its about the driving not the chassis.

If I were to entertain the thought of a tc5 would I really be able to shave time off my laps or is as everyone seems to believe driving everything?

I still smoke guys in "higher end luxury cars". I guess my point is, is it worth it?
One of my friends still keeps his dialed TC3 around. He has made multi a mains at national races in stock. He has told me once in a while, the guys at the track take the old car out just to see what lap times they can do with it. he says the car will do the same laps as the new cars with the same motor/battery combo, but it is a lot harder to drive. The newer cars will do those fast laps with much less effort.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:38 PM   #4574
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What does changing the roll center change in handling of the car. Im running the 2 dot on the front and rear of the car. The car feels great but like the guy said before when I run the spool the car seems to want to keep turning.
Are you on power or off power or does it happen all the time??? Definition- roll center the greater the distance between your CG(center of gravity) and your roll center the more leverage the CG will have against your roll center and with the same cornering force cause the car to rotate more around the roll center. If the CG and roll center have no distance between them then the car will not rotate around the roll center. If your roll center was higher than your CG then the car would lean into the corners.

maybe if your car has a slight push then off power it would keep turning then the question would be entry or exit....entry:try lowering frnt 1st 2nd raise rear EXIt:raise rear 1st 2nd lower frnt

hope that helps
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:12 PM   #4575
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Are you on power or off power or does it happen all the time??? Definition- roll center the greater the distance between your CG(center of gravity) and your roll center the more leverage the CG will have against your roll center and with the same cornering force cause the car to rotate more around the roll center. If the CG and roll center have no distance between them then the car will not rotate around the roll center. If your roll center was higher than your CG then the car would lean into the corners.

maybe if your car has a slight push then off power it would keep turning then the question would be entry or exit....entry:try lowering frnt 1st 2nd raise rear EXIt:raise rear 1st 2nd lower frnt

hope that helps
I have the same problem, but it seems occurred on turn right only. Maybe the motor side too heavy than the battery side a lot and make the car rolling suddenly cause the rear not stable. Just my 2 sense
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