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Old 11-11-2007, 06:29 AM   #4516
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Hello everybody:

I ran my tc5 stock assembly last month but Ive changed to Ryans setup.

You are the master Ryan. Its alot better. I wonder if you can setup my mother in law to drive her as well as I did this morning with my car......

Thank you
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:48 AM   #4517
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Originally Posted by SHAUN GRIDER View Post
hey guys just wondering if anyone has the same issue as i do

for some reason my chassis tip up and down when on the pit board front to rear of the car i have loosened all the screws and held it flat and tighten everything back up and it still the same


just wondering if it might be the top deck or what anyone else having this issue

thanks
I had that exact same problem when I changed over to the ITF top plate and chassis. I kept loosening and tightening the top deck using the 4 inner o-rings but the chassis would still rock back and forth. I finally loosened all of the bottom screws on the chassis, flexed it from side to side a few times, and tightened it back down. The chassis laid out perfectly flat and has remained so. Hope this works for you.

Pete
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:29 AM   #4518
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The plastic one is different but it still works in the aluminum, just not vice versa.
what is part number for the alum diff nut?
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:01 AM   #4519
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Has anyone seen an alloy spur gear hub for the tc5 ??.
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:52 PM   #4520
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Originally Posted by Pete Thomas View Post
I had that exact same problem when I changed over to the ITF top plate and chassis. I kept loosening and tightening the top deck using the 4 inner o-rings but the chassis would still rock back and forth. I finally loosened all of the bottom screws on the chassis, flexed it from side to side a few times, and tightened it back down. The chassis laid out perfectly flat and has remained so. Hope this works for you.

Pete
I have tried that and it still bows from front to rear it is fine until i tighten my top deck then it bows again i wonder if my top plate is the problem any more ideas thanks
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:26 PM   #4521
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Default Gearing

I'm sure this has been dicussed before, but I'm looking for a starting point for gearing a 13.5 Novak Motor. I realize there is alot that goes into gearing... i just need a starting point.

I have a 64 pitch 104 tooth spur. I would prefer to run 64 pitch.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:35 PM   #4522
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A 47 tooth pinion will give you a 4.42 FDR which is about what you want
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:57 PM   #4523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reznor88 View Post
I'm sure this has been dicussed before, but I'm looking for a starting point for gearing a 13.5 Novak Motor. I realize there is alot that goes into gearing... i just need a starting point.

I have a 64 pitch 104 tooth spur. I would prefer to run 64 pitch.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
I think you are goiing to want to or realize you can go more

I am down to a 93 spur with 46 pinion and I'm at 4.04 and my mm and orion 13.5 after about 5 mins comes off at 145 degrees I love it fast and cool

let me know
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:20 PM   #4524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHAUN GRIDER View Post
hey guys just wondering if anyone has the same issue as i do

for some reason my chassis tip up and down when on the pit board front to rear of the car i have loosened all the screws and held it flat and tighten everything back up and it still the same


just wondering if it might be the top deck or what anyone else having this issue

thanks
Here's what a team driver showed me:
1. Find the flattest surface you can get. Our track has a machinist's stone, but a thick piece of glass, good setup board will do.

2. Loosen the bulkheads top and bottom. Also loosen the shock towers from the mounts.

3. Let the car settle, you can even twist it to make sure it comes back to flat. Tighten the bulkheads bottom screws first. Just snug them, and then go a bit more, don't gorilla wrist them in.

4. Have someone push down on both bulkheads, and tighten one screw on the front bulkhead, then do the opposite diagonally on the rear bulkhead. Go back and forth from front to rear while your friend holds the car down.

5. Once the top plate is done, tighten the shock towers back down. Check the car by tapping on the lower chassis at different points. Is is clicking like it is not flat? If the car clicks at the extreme rear end behind the diff, a very small amount is normal. You may be able to help this somewhat by loosening the rear bulkhead screws on the bottom of the chassis and tightening them again. If the car is clicking in any other place, or the rear moves a lot, you may need to repeat these steps, or you have something broken or bent on the car.

I have been told taking a bit of material off of the ends of the top deck so it is not touching the bulkhead can help as well. Not everybody may agree with this however.
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:24 AM   #4525
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Questions?? Help on a TC5 set up????

I see ALOT of differant set-ups and advise on the TC5 for asphalt here(a hell of alot of reading here too 151 pages). I've been racing for about 7 years and love the Associated line for touring. The last belt drivin car i had was a HPI pro 2. After that it was the TC3 and Now the Team TC4. I Race in Texas and I'm gonna be purchasing a TC5 for parking lot asphalt club racing(main track is not a huge track but big enough) and try to go to some BIG electric racing events from time to time. We run alot of 19t races here using cs-27 rubber tires. I'm throwing this out to AE DRIVERS for a set-up and parts i should start with before i buy/build it. I see everyone talking about the spool , aluminum outdrives,the 4 o'rings on the back upper deck and the ITF chassis(upper and lower) for asphalt racing scene. Can someone help me out so when i order the car i can order all the option parts that i need to start out with in the first build(gearing would help out great too,gonna stay with 48p). I was thinking of getting the Mazda speed 6 body for it aswell. If this helps i posted a nice link of the track and design (changes about every other week but, you get the idea). I'm the yellow with the blue flames i like to drive fast and tight into the turns. It has been recently resurfaced and we use grape soda on the track. Gets pretty good traction.Thanks alot for the help.

P.S. Tips on building would be great also.

www.promofo-racing.org/Elec-TC-A-Main-428.html

Last edited by BIG DADDY8; 11-12-2007 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:50 AM   #4526
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Great video, looks professional all the way! I have my tc5 on order and plan to race it on asphalt. Option parts I ordered was the itf chassis and top plate, aluminum outdrives, spooler kit for the front, 1* rear hubs, gold, silver and blue springs, 1.25 sway bar. Got the setup off the AE website so it should work well as a starting point and I'll make changes from there. Hope this helps!
Greg
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:20 AM   #4527
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Originally Posted by t4mania View Post
Great video, looks professional all the way! I have my tc5 on order and plan to race it on asphalt. Option parts I ordered was the itf chassis and top plate, aluminum outdrives, spooler kit for the front, 1* rear hubs, gold, silver and blue springs, 1.25 sway bar. Got the setup off the AE website so it should work well as a starting point and I'll make changes from there. Hope this helps!
Greg
His name is Griz. He does alot of videos here in Tx. He's really good. I though the kit came with sway bars already? What setup did you get off the site? I like Bob Stellflues Reedy touring race(5/27/07) setup, I took notes from all the others here and seen that the AE drivers used the #2 pistions from the tc4 shocks at the Reedy race with no foams. Would that make the shocks have "NO" rebound? What does that do as far as handling?
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:35 AM   #4528
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bigdaddy,
I am running ryans setup from the nats, I added .5 degree of front tow out, and have four 0-rings installed in the back of the top plate, no sway bars.
I run mod, but the car is real agressive into the corners which fits my driving style. a little loose coming out which is why I added the tow out.
I run only cs-27's and the mazda speed body, make sure the wing is mounted as far back as possible, seems to work better. the only other difference was running ride height at 5mm in front and 5.5 in rear, I think ryans setup is 5.25 in the front
-
parts i am running
ae front spool
kit diff
itf chassis/top deck
40wt oil all around
everything else is box stock
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hope this helps
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Old 11-12-2007, 09:54 AM   #4529
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Default O-Rings

What are you guys referring to with o-rings in the back of the top plate?

Please explain.

Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2007, 10:17 AM   #4530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reznor88 View Post
What are you guys referring to with o-rings in the back of the top plate?

Please explain.

Thanks!
Hi This is a little trick that juho started to do, @ the rear of the car their is 4 screws on the top plate near the spur gear, u will need 4 new screws wich are a little longer also u will need 4 orings ' the red shock 1's are best' and 4 washers, This lets the top plate flex more @ the rear of the car and this gives more grip!

Have a look @ Post #4507

ste e.
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